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but were afraid to ask: 
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I have had a nightmare of a time restoring a BN1. It's been in one shop for 2.5 years and that is just for metal work and it is not done. I am thinking of using British Motor Corporation out of Philadelphia to finish the job. I am in too deep to stop. Has anyone dealt with BMC?
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British Motor Corporation
- Thread starter Dogs4
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bighealeysource
Luke Skywalker
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Hey Dogs4,
They are a big advertiser in the Healey Marque Magazine of Austin Healey Club
of America and as Keoke mentioned, make a big deal about speaking to their past
customers. I'd start with that approach until maybe someone from the forum
who has used them responds to your post.
Regards,
Mik
They are a big advertiser in the Healey Marque Magazine of Austin Healey Club
of America and as Keoke mentioned, make a big deal about speaking to their past
customers. I'd start with that approach until maybe someone from the forum
who has used them responds to your post.
Regards,
Mik
Offline
As the Austin-Healey Forum Moderator I want to compliment you all on the way that you are handling the potentially sensitive subject of experiences with a vendor. Using the Forum to get in touch with others who have first-hand experience, and then private conversations via PM or email, is a very good way to make good use of the Forum while being fair to all involved.
healyfan53
Senior Member
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Good reply Reid
Cheers
Gilbert
Seven years after the last post on this topic, I'd like to ask again for folks thoughts on British Motor Corp in Philadelphia. I am looking to have some mechanical work done on my '67 BJ8, possibly more than just a little. I recently spoke with the former owner, Knut H. He has sold his business to a long-time employee maybe three years ago. They still specialize in Healeys, but may have expanded to other makes as well. Has anyone had any recent experience with BMC Phila? Please feel free to PM me with your thoughts. Thanks!
Josh
Josh
I pulled my 1967 Healey out of this shop after 2 years and it in now in another restoration facility. I have a great deal to say about this shop.
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Sorry, this is an too oft told story and I'm a long winded guy. I suspect a lot of things can change from Josh's post from 2018 to the present. I know not everyone has the time tools, physical flexibility or inclination to do their own restoration to the level they desire. But if you have time and inclination ( get help with the physical part if needed) I asure you that unless you are working with seriously bent or rusted out frames you can probably buy the necesary parts, tools and learn from the internet, library, local club expertise, classes etc. and restore your car possibly in less time and certainly for less money than some shops may require. For example, you can paint a small car, build a spray booth, buy a big enough compressor, spray gun or two, good respirator , sanding materials and paints for a quarter of what many shops will charge for a quality paint job. Then when you make some mistakes and want to do it again, you will still save money. Your level of satisfaction will be immense and you will know your vehicle inside and out which will serve you well on the road.
Never tell a shop owner to work on it when they are slow for work in the hope of saving a buck or a pound or a euro. Panel beating is 75% skill and 25% understanding and is the key to a decent restoration. Take a metal working class, shoot, take three classes and buy some hammers and dollies, a combination mig/ tig welder. You do not need top of the line stuff. It's really the " feed a man a fish versus teach him to fish" thing. Sure, send the engine out for overhaul or for the machine shop work that is beyond most do it yourself folks. You basically have to send out the block, crank, cam and head and other stressed parts for inspection and rework. A couple of torque wrenches and some feeler gages and assembly is actually fun.
I worked in aircraft shops for much of my career and we never led a customer on as has been described here. If we took on a project we worked on it until it was done after an accurate assessment of the scope required. If unforseen things happened, the first thing we did is get on the phone to discuss a situation. It's called customer service and it is really simple and usually makes everyone happy, even if it's bad news. If they wanted to go elsewhere, so be it. Often it became a regret that they just didn't like the truth we gave them. We shouldn't have to settle for less......IMHO.
Never tell a shop owner to work on it when they are slow for work in the hope of saving a buck or a pound or a euro. Panel beating is 75% skill and 25% understanding and is the key to a decent restoration. Take a metal working class, shoot, take three classes and buy some hammers and dollies, a combination mig/ tig welder. You do not need top of the line stuff. It's really the " feed a man a fish versus teach him to fish" thing. Sure, send the engine out for overhaul or for the machine shop work that is beyond most do it yourself folks. You basically have to send out the block, crank, cam and head and other stressed parts for inspection and rework. A couple of torque wrenches and some feeler gages and assembly is actually fun.
I worked in aircraft shops for much of my career and we never led a customer on as has been described here. If we took on a project we worked on it until it was done after an accurate assessment of the scope required. If unforseen things happened, the first thing we did is get on the phone to discuss a situation. It's called customer service and it is really simple and usually makes everyone happy, even if it's bad news. If they wanted to go elsewhere, so be it. Often it became a regret that they just didn't like the truth we gave them. We shouldn't have to settle for less......IMHO.