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Breakdown prevention?

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Alwaysride-

You are indeed fortunate.

Over the past 18 months I have owned the "restored" TR6,
my average is 19 miles between breakdowns with $31K
spent on repairs to date. Car presently on blocks.

Obviously I must carry many spare parts in my trunk.
Here is a photo of my trunk--- preparing for a test run
after a major breakdown.

d

spareparts.jpg
 
Dale, Just curious, why are you striping the side panels and wheel archs, all that area is covered with a trunk trim kit! Are you looking for hidden rust?
Joe
 
Hi Joe,

It is a case of "might as well do it"

I found such a mess behind the cardboard liners
when I pulled out DPO Pedro's crud filled fuel tank,
I had to do something about it.

I'm waiting on fuel tank parts that are not due to
arrive until Friday so I can't install the refurbished
tank until then. So......

I might as well clean up the mess while I'm in there.
PDO Pedro has been known to hide thru and thru rust
pretty well with bondo and f/glass.

floor3.jpg


I'll post some photos when I'm completed.



d
 
Ok, You have a Lucas "pre-engage" type of starter.
According to the Rimmer Bros. site there are two types

"TR6 PI cars were always fitted with a pre-engaged type Lucas starter motor of either the M418G or 2M100 model type. Due to further improvement by Lucas the later type 2M100 model starter is supplied for all replacement purposes. The M418G starter is identified by the Lucas part number 25626 stamped on the main casing. The 2M100 model is identified by the part number 25647 stamped on the main casing. M418G starter motors have the electrical carbon brushes bearing on the sides of the armature's commutator in a radial manner. The carbon brushes of the 2M100 bear against an end facing commutator in an axial manner. The components of the two design starters are not interchangeable, the complete starter motor assemblies are. If you intend to carry out repairs to your own starter motor you must establish which model starter is fitted by obtaining the information of model type and part number from the starter motor main casing. Without this information there is a good chance that the wrong spares are purchased to service your particular starter motor."

So now you can look at the #s and know exactly which model you have.

There are a number of bushings in there and one of them is likely to be worn, or just plain dry. If you carefully take off the front and back ends of the bottom part, you should be able to see the bushings and determine if they are decent and just need some grease (lithium type ) or need replacing.
 

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Yisarel- Thanks as always.

The info is filed away in the Crypt vault for near future
use. (I hope near term anyway)

I need the existing schreeching starter a few more days until
I can install the final fuel delivery system and get it
reliably functional. Then I'll pull the starter and see what I
have.

I wonder if a Suzuki Grand Vitara V-6 would fit into Crypty's
engine compartment? That's a very reliable small engine.

Yup, Paul- I was paying attention. I am finding some of
Crypty's rear body parts held together with Liquid Nails.
Cool!! Pedro didn't even bother getting any K-Mart bolts
and nuts. $1.99 a tube LN.

d
 
Dale, how soaked did the starter get when the rear carb was spewing gasoline? It can act like a solvent. The starter might just need some lubrication added to the shaft that the starter gera rides on and the bushings. Very easy to take those starters apart and do such a thing.

Just a thought.
 
Shawn,

The starter was drenched any number of times when the rear
carb failed and belched gasoline all over the engine
compartment-carb side.

d /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/nopity.gif
 
Dale if it is screeching then some damage is happening. I think that Shawn's suggestion that this might be a result of gasoline spilling on it is a fairly high possibility particularly if this is a new sound. Pulling, cleaning and lubing shouldn't take that long. A few ounces of grease are much cheaper than a new starter.
 
Please remember to disconnect battery cable before doing anything.

No fireworks allowed until Fourth of July.
 
Paul,

Not to worry. Electric scares me to death.
I intend to remove the battery and move it to the
backyard before I pull the starter.

Just looking at the starter from above, it appears
the passenger side front suspension system and wheel hub
must be removed to gain access to the starter. Is this
correct?

thanks,

d
 
Tinster said:
Paul,

Not to worry. Electric scares me to death.
I intend to remove the battery and move it to the
backyard before I pull the starter.

Just looking at the starter from above, it appears
the passenger side front suspension system and wheel hub
must be removed to gain access to the starter. Is this
correct?

thanks,

d
Click to expand...

Now your trying to make up reasons to pull the front suspension apart aren't you. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

Removing the trans tunnel makes it easier to get to the other side of the starter mounting bolts but is not necessary. There are only two bolts that hold the starter on. Minus the electrical connections anyway...

Your front suspension can stay in place for now.

Nice try...
 
Craig,

A picture through my windshield now would just show a block wall. I'm A3 preparing to pull the trans, replace the badly slipping clutch, and then install a self-rebuilt transmission. I took a few tips from the Tinster in the cross-shaft and throwout fork area. I already found 2 of the 4 trans output-to-driveshaft bolts were non-shouldered hardware store bolts with plain nuts.

Jeff
74 TR6 CF13816U
 
Jeff
where are the pics of the rebuild!!!!!?????????
 
Tinster said:
Obviously I must carry many spare parts in my trunk.
Here is a photo of my trunk--- preparing for a test run
after a major breakdown.

spareparts.jpg
Click to expand...

Holy Cow Dale - that is an impressive array of emergency parts. What's your best time yet on a roadside remove and replace of that trailing arm?
 
Six hours... but I cheated a little and used baling wire
and did not purchase all new bolts and locknuts.

Ya never know when ya might need a spare trailing arm!

I think the most difficult roadside challenge to date
was replacing a broken u-joint. I carry four spares at
all times.

I will soon be adding a spare rear carb to my trunk area.
The rear carbs seem to fail with consistancy.

I also now carry a complete spare fuel line from tank to
carbs. I'm waiting on the two spare fuel pumps to arrive.
I used my spare pump 2 weeks ago.

With my TR6, you just ever seem to carry enough spare parts
to make roadside repairs. My average is now about 17 miles
between breakdowns. My car is far from reliable.
 
Hey Kodanja!!

I was at a custom boat trailer fabricator the other
day and got to thinking.

I can AutoCad design just about anything I can picture
in my mind. I have a 2,800# ball hitch and brakes towing
capacity on my Jeep Wrangler.

I am certain I could design a sliding trailer hitch
and have it fabricated and welded under Crypty. When
Crypty is functional the hitch slides inward and is
not too visible.

When Crypty breaks down, I slide the tow hitch out, and
I call Wendy to bring the Wrangler or any one of my fellow
boaters with ball hitches to come tow the dead Beast home.

That's gotta be cheaper than one 30 mile flat bed tow.
Maybe I could patent this design and sell it to other Brit
car owners?? je,je,je!

regards,

d
 
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