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Break in oil, normal driving oil......thoughts??

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Re: Break in oil, normal driving oil......thought

Definatally a supporter of the Vavoline 20-50w VR-1. It comes with zddp additives removed from newer oils because of its affect on cat. converts. Still great for cams and thrust washers on these engines. Not too expensive at $5 a Qt from Jegs.
 
Re: Break in oil, normal driving oil......thought

Searcher,

Who makes VR-1? I'm getting confused on all of these names.

Yank,

We used to use Kendall exclusively at the dealership in PA back in the 60's through the early 80's when I left. It was always great oil then, so I'm sure that BP is fine as well.

I'm just learning about all of these Zinc issues. I think that the new Rotella T lowered the zinc from 1445PPM to 1200PPM, but put in the anti-wear additives.
 
Re: Break in oil, normal driving oil......thought

Auto Zone and Advance for like 3 bucks a quart, Valvoline, 20w-50 VR-1. Also, I might add as far as break in goes, I know of no factory using break in oil, why do we need to use it? If the factories don't know what they are doing, why do cars now go 200, 300, thousand miles without engine overhaul? And, Mobil 1, says some of their oils still have the zinc, I need to look at their MSDS sheets, it was the higehr vis. ones. I was told by Shell that the big rigs were getting cat converters this year, and out goes the zinc, you can call the number on the jug and they will tell you, however they SAY, the new formula is better. Castrol, they wimped out on us, so I don't use it anymore, in anything. If I were you Brosky, and rebuilding a TR6 engine, I would have the cam and lifters Rockwell hardness tested. And, anyone who has recently rebuilt their engines, here something to check, warm engine, pull valve cover, mark push rods with magic marker, start engine, at idle see how many pushrods are not spinning, I bet some don't. No quality control at suppliers......... Also, my opinion is that the current administraation in DC, took the zinc out because the major auto manufactures complained that they were not selling enought cars, due to the miles we get from new cars nowadays. So, if you mess with the quality of the oil, they will sell more cars, cause now the engines won't last as long, and people would rather buy new that pay a major expense for an engine overhaul. We have had cat converters for over 30 years, and now all of a sudden they say zinc causes a problem with them, BS, always follow the money, always........ And, Rotella told me on the phone, the zinc is out, they will also tell you how to tell, the old stock on shelves still has the zinc, The API rating is different. Also, VR-! still has it all, just look at the MSDS sheets, you can tell.
 
Re: Break in oil, normal driving oil......thought

TheSearcherMan said:
If the factories don't know what they are doing, why do cars now go 200, 300, thousand miles without engine overhaul?
Click to expand...
Just a thought ... could it have anything to do with modern engine design, and modern manufacturing tolerances ? Or maybe something about building a million engines at a time instead of just one ?
 
Re: Break in oil, normal driving oil......thought

When I spoke of break in oil, I was speaking of the oil that will run in my engine for the first 20-30 minutes and be drained and replaced, along with the filter. I've never rebuilt any engine and not followed that procedure, nor will I now no matter what any factory does.

Factory engine are built in such a clean environment today and the process control to remove any particulate from the engine castings is so good, that there is not nearly the concern that existed years ago when every factory wanted the first oil change at 1,000 miles. Perhaps better oils, designed for those engine and their tolerances and alloys help to account for the higher mileage possible.

If what you say is true about the big car makers wanting the items out of the oil that will protect the engines, why are they all extending the warranties to 100,000 miles? Pretty risky tactic if you are raising your potential liability at the same time.
 
Re: Break in oil, normal driving oil......thought

Well, let me say this. I was in a facility that does testing of motor oils for major companies. I tried to get info on who's oil was the best, the guy was tight lipped to say the least. However, he did say if an oil tested superior, ie. less wear shown in tests, tests which are very expensive, the manufacturer would cut the additives because they are expensive. In other words, I would take this to mean, all oils are even, or mostly so. One reason for the tests is not to make sure your oil is better that the rest, to make sure it not better, because it costs more to make it better. Like I said, follow the money. So much testing is done, they, auto and oil companies can engineer a vehicle to last 100k or 125k miles, they know precisely how much wear each part has in a given number of miles, and their quality control is excellent. I think if the truth were known, there is not alot of difference between oils, and we change them much to frequently because they, the oil companies, use fear as a marketing tool. Just follow the money........
 
Re: Break in oil, normal driving oil......thought

Now I'm getting a headache.
 
Re: Break in oil, normal driving oil......thought

Break in oil, cheap 30 weight, SL rather than SM on the label if you can find it, pint of GM EOS for the cam and Tappets (available at your GM dealer parts counter).

After break in I used Brad Penn.

Should note I think there are two Valvoline VR1s, one is their street racing oil and the other the off road racing oil or some such distinction. The off road had the ZDDP and is more expensive.

Castrol is making a classic oil with all the zinc "Castrol Classic" I think it is called, probably have to special order it, $5-6 a quart.

The dieasel oils have also reduced the ZDDP lately so the diesel oil advice is no longer sound as I understand it.

Most of this is from extensive reading on the net, plus a freind who works in the truck lube business. I did as described above on an engine rebuild last summer.

EDIT: I think it may be Valvoline racing oil and not VR1 you want if going for ZDDP/zinc, if you look at their description they talk about ZDDP "and other additives" in VR1 and extra ZDDP in the Racing oil.
 
Re: Break in oil, normal driving oil......thought

My father told me a long time ago that oil is cheap, overhauls are expensive. That's why I run Redline.
 
Re: Break in oil, normal driving oil......thought

Paul,

I wrote up a little info on Brad Penn a little while ago... Moron Oil.
Kendall still exists. Brad Penn is working out of their old facility.
I'm using their 20w-50 racing oil which is a PA crude/synthetic blend. Many of the vintage racers are using it.
www.amref.com
 
Re: Break in oil, normal driving oil......thought

Thanks to all for your thoughts and information.

A lot of good reading material here, once the headache goes away.....
 
Re: Break in oil, normal driving oil......thought

Brosky said:
once the headache goes away.....
Click to expand...


I am not leaving till I am forced to do so........
 
Re: Break in oil, normal driving oil......thought

Just take two Advil's and tune in tomorrow.
 
Re: Break in oil, normal driving oil......thought

DougF said:
Paul,

I wrote up a little info on Brad Penn a little while ago... Moron Oil.
Kendall still exists. Brad Penn is working out of their old facility.
I'm using their 20w-50 racing oil which is a PA crude/synthetic blend. Many of the vintage racers are using it.
www.amref.com
Click to expand...

I am confused. Moron Oil?? but the rest of your post seems to recommend it as does the website you point to.

Please expand, thanks, Greg
 
Re: Break in oil, normal driving oil......thought

"More on oil" There had been so many threads on oil at the time, I really didn't want to start a new one and figured people didn't want to read any more about the subject. But a good conversation with some very knowledgeable men and many conversations among friends lead me to start this one.
Moron oil...I've seen worse newpaper headlines.
 
Re: Break in oil, normal driving oil......thought

blkcorvair said:
Link to VR-1. Only one racing version to my knowledge. Works well on street.
Click to expand...
There are two Valvoline "Racing Oils" in 20W-50.

One is marked "Valvoline Racing, VR1, SAE 20W-50 Motor Oil", & has part number VV211.

The other is marked "Valvoline Racing, Not Street Legal, SAE 20W-50 Engine oil", & has part number VV851. See attached pic.

In my opinion, Valvoline does their best to confuse the issue & their published numbers/specs/packaging vary continuously.
D
 

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