TR2/3/3A brass bushing tr3

[sp53]

Hi all can anyone tell me the best place to buy a reamer to ream out the brass bushing in the steering shaft on a tr3. I think I remember hearing that one could purchase an adjustable one at harbor freight.

 

[TRclassic3]

As a matter of fact I can. It so happens I just had to make the purchase and ream the bushing. I must tell you it is a bit of a fussy slow process. I found it easiest to turn the reamer ccw, adjust out a litle, ream, adjust,ream.....well you get the picture. End result was excellent.

In case the link doesn't work it is ENCO
Model #334-1113



https://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=334-1113&PMPXNO=946261

 

[TR3driver]

I have had very poor success with those cheap adjustable reamers. The blades don't fit snugly in the slots, which means they can tip when they start to cut, and dig in to give a lousy surface finish (especially in softer materials like brass). Likely due to my lack of skill; but I much prefer using a fixed reamer.

A straight-flute "chucking" fixed reamer can usually be had for $15-$25 (depending on size), and IMO will work much better. If you don't have a chuck big enough to hold it, you can always grind a square on the end for a tap wrench or similar.

But you might want to put the bushing in first and check if it needs to be reamed. Mine didn't.

I don't recall what diameter the rocker shaft is, offhand, but here is an example of the type of reamer I use:
https://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=331-1148&PMPXNO=946317&PARTPG=INLMK32

 

[dklawson]

Another option for inexpensive tools such as reamers is Grizzly (grizzly.com) I have bought a couple of reamers from them (not for either of our Triumphs though). I also have bought various other tools from them. Generally good quality with good prices.

That said, I have also purchased various shop tools from Enco. You won't go wrong buying from them either.

 

[sp53]

Thanks all; however, I am still a little perplexed. It looks like the bushing can go in the wrong way; it has this little groove that apparently lets oil down into the brass surface without letting it leave the surface. I put in with the grooved U pointing down. In addition, if I use the fixed reamer how tight should I make the fit? It is already very close and I was thinking a guy could perhaps hillbilly something in there to take out that little fuzz of metal. Randall, do I need to buy one right on the money and let it wear in? It looks like 15/16 or 7/8.

 

[TR3driver]

That's interesting; I'm pretty sure that both my original bushing, and the one I installed, and the one I got from TRF just a few months ago, all had plain surfaces. Sounds to me like you might have the wrong one. Er, we ARE talking about the bushing in the bottom of the steering box, right?

The shaft should have the clearance built into it, the bushing can be reamed to exact size. No wearing in should be needed. Should be a "close running fit", which ISTR is .001" to .002" total difference between hole size & shaft size (with the shaft smaller obviously).

 

[Moseso]

The bushing with the "U" Groove is the right one. That's what came out of my old steering box. The U goes open-end-up, towards the oil in the box -- and the closed end goes towards the seal. I replaced it with a plain bushing, sourced locally from a purveyor of all manner of bushings. I had my choice of sintered, or cast. I took cast. It was about 20% of the cost of a proper TRF bushing. It needed to be reamed after pressing-in. I used a cheap trick, taught me by a BMW motorcycle mech. A small brake cylinder hone (which I already had) will do a nice job of fitting a bushing like that. He showed me how to do wrist-pin bushings in my R69S that way. We honed 'em to that "just able to push 'em in" dimension -- no perceptible play. I agree with Randall that .001" - .002" would be a good fit for the steering bushing.