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Braking to the right after rebuild.

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Andrew1

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Hello:

Over the summer I've rebuilt both right and left calipers on the 1967 BJ8 as a result of noticing the car initially braking to the left under moderate braking pressure.

After taking apart the the brakes, I observed moderate levels of rust on the chrome piston. The cylinder bores were cleaned, all four pistons replaced with new ones, new seals and dust covers all around. New pads & full bleeding the brake system all around.

Now the car wants to brake to the right !!!!

Can anyone experienced in the braking system give me an idea or a check list of things I should into and help solve the (lack of) straight stopping mystery?

- Andrew -
 
Hello Andrew,

the brakes should be OK after what you have done and pulling can be down to low tyre pressure or some suspension malady.
However, have you tried heavy braking to see if both wheels lock? If they don't then you need to re-check the brakes.

Alec
 
Hi Andrew,
It couldn’t hurt to check the pads on the right to see it any brake fluid has gotten on them.
 
Greg;

Would that be the pads on the right or the left?.... the car grabs more on the left...making it steer to the right.

Let me know, since I'm not sure what brake fluid does to the stopping effectiveness of a pad.

-a- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/canpatriot.GIF /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/canpatriot.GIF
 
I don't uderstand... if it "grabs" more on the left you should be pulled to the left as that side slows more and the right keeps rolling.

Brake fluid contamination generally reduces the effectiveness of the brakes (like driving through a puddle). So if it pulls to the right that side is slowing more and the left side braking is weaker.

You might also check the hoses for their condition and the tightness of the connections. Loss of fluid and/or air in the lines could have this effect. Try bleeding that side again, or replacing the hoses if they're old and cracking.
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Hi James Wilson, I think what he is saying is that the brake grabs on the left forcing him to "steer right" to correct the cars direction.---Keoke
 
Go to crappy tire and get some brake degreaser and soak the discs as well as the rotor on both sides. This should have been done prior to assembly. Might be some oil etc. left on them from your hands. Also the advice about bleeding the brake lines again. There could still some air left in the lines.
 
recently did mine,im curious when you say rebuild,did you split the cases?the reason i ask is because if you do there is a small 'O' ring thats not in any rebuild kit and they can be damaged with some cleaners,another thing,how clean are the cylinders?no grazing,pitting etc.inside?when you put them together did you make sure none of the pistons were slightly cocked,or buggered up with dust cover or seal ring? any type of schmuts got into the internal passage can couse trouble,im in agreement that you should spray everting down with brake cleaner and look for any leaks from hard or soft lines,i also agree that loose front end suspension or under or uneven tire pressure can also be problematic,have the same type tire all around?good luck im certain youll find the problem.anthony7777 1963 bj7 3000 M.K. II
 
andrew1,p.s. did you have any problems when you bled the brakes?and does the resivour hold all its fluid? anthony7777 1963 bj7 3000 M.K. II
 
I had leaking brake fluid from a cylinder on one of my front drums. The braking affect was not less, in fact totally the opposite, the fluid eventually caused the pads to bind to the drums resulting in a locked wheel and very loud screeching of the tyre. Embarassing and dangerous! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 
Andrew, I had almost the identical problem, the chrome pistons were too neet in the caliper bores, one was 'micro' seizing and causing pull to the RH side.
The pistons were renewed some 5 thou smaller in diameter - never another problem - 1500 miles on from a total restoration, 1959 3000 BN7, Roger.
 
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