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Hotdoc

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Hello all
This line seems very quiet recently. I hope everyone is OK
Question: The car we are rebuilding will have a c
Cooper race mill bored to 1310. C/R about 11/1. Probably will run best on Avgas(easily available). What brake/suspension mods do we need to cope? Also tips on carburetion(we have a 45DCOE or Amals available). Do we need to reinforce the front subframe etc.?
cheers
Hotdoc
 
I have a 1380 in mine and it is all stock suspension. Seems to work great. Standard Cooper S disks front and drums rear. My car is a Mk 1 though. Are you racing it?
 
Need a bit more info.

What are you rebuilding it from?

Front subframe should be fine. You might want to go to solid bushings, Hi-Lo's, an extra engine steady, and quality adjustable shocks.

If you're running 10" wheels, you want the 7.5" Cooper "S" disc brakes.....if you're running 13" wheels, I'd recommend the 8.4" discs. Also,if you're building from an older Mini, you definitely want the 2-leading shoe brakes on the rear....and MiniFin drums are nice too.

Don't know about Amals, but a 45 DCOE installation is pretty straightforward. Of course, you'll need the proper manifold and linkage, and you'll have to make a cutout in the firewall to accomodate that particular carb.
 
we just have the original drums so are open to suggestion. On the race car we had 13in.wheels with Formula Atlantic brakes.I must say that anything less was inadequate. I've heard of? Rover 4pot calipers with ?12in. wheel/low profile tyres but we had to enlarge the whhel arches in the late 70s to accomodate the 13in. wheels
 
Will this be a road car or a race car?

I'm not sure if the late model (Rover) Mini 8.4" discs will fit with 12" wheels....I know that they fit with 13 inchers. With the engine mods you're planning, you'll want to go as big as possible on the brakes. As you probably already know, Minis were never over braked.

And, yeah, you'll have to open up the wheel arches of any Mini designed for 10" wheels when you go to larger ones.
 
I have a 1340cc cooper S motor in my clubman GT and it was "floating on fluid" but i changed it to stock dry suspension. Seems to work great.
I had 115hp pumping out that GT, and i can tell u the subframe coped quite fine.
It had a clubman Geerbox in it which was not a good thing "rod change type" The cast 4 syncro box is the best, that way u dont need the extra mount.
Standard Cooper S disks front and drums rear is my braking power and it is good
As for the Weber, I would certainly say no way, I had this option and i think it was a total piece of SH-T, "sory to you weber guys out there" But i have tryed them both. Twin su's and weber.
I have a set of twin 1 3/4 that i had on my mini had them made up, as they are not a stock item, They are by far the untermate carbouration I have come up with. I Had two sets made so if you are intrested?

10" wheels are they way to go, I would stay with 10's They are the corning wheel

Hope i could help u out.
 
Thanks all!
composite answer: We'd like to stay with 10in. wheels . The original car is a 1979 1000 and has drums all round. The subframes look OK but have yet to be blasted.I see advertised conversion kits to disc and would prefer 4 pot as we have tried with standard brakes in the past and not been happy.
We agree about the Weber-very tweaky and temp/humidity sensitive.We liked it for racing but were constantly fiddling with jets. My partner in this endeavor builds race bikes and assures me he can run 4 bike carbs. We don't have to buy them and he can fabricate the manifold.
We have both shift linkages to try- The box is close ratio straight cut with limited slip diff and I've no idea what the final drive is. I seem to recall 105-110mph at around 7000-7500rpm but could be wrong.
 
Q. What do you call a Mini with good brakes.

A. Customized!
grin.gif
 
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