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Brakes and Speedo

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jjbunn

jjbunn

Jedi Knight
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I never realised, when I got Harold, how much time I was going to spend fixing the brakes! First it was the master cylinder, then the rear brake lines and hose, and now I am on to the rear brake cylinders. The one I have taken off was gunged up solid. So today I have been cleaning it out, and will fit the rebuild kit I got from Moss at the weekend.

As for the speedo: I have a new (used) angle drive, a new (used) trunnion, new gasket, and I already installed a brand new cable. So far so good. Today I drained the gearbox oil. Boy, there was a lot of it! It looks, from the manual, that refilling it is going to be a pain, as it requires a squeeze bottle. I need to refill it after attaching the new speedo parts.

Question: if the gearbox oil is drained, and I feel like tinkering with the carbs, can I do any damage starting the engine with no oil in the gearbox? Or should I wait until the gearbox is refilled?
 
With the transmission in nuetral, and the engine running... at least one shaft is turning inside the transmission... I'd fill it back up first.
 
O'Rileys auto and maybe others sell a small pump for 3 something that screws right into a quart oil plastic can, even has a flex plastic tube on the end.

Very nice item for transmissions, no drip, none at all.
 
Julian, If you are going to rebuild the original wheel cylinders, which is ok, but make sure you hone them out good. The slightest pits or defects in the bore will cause them to leak. That's why a lot of us just buy new ones. PJ
 
The input shaft of the transmission and the laygear will be spinning with the engine, so it should have oil in it before you start the engine again. Jack's suggestion of the plastic pump is spot-on. The filler plug/dipstick can sometimes be a real bugger to get out, BTW.

New cylinders are cheap enough and available thru NAPA or most other major parts outlets, too. If the ones you've removed are packed up, your chances of having no pits in there are kinda slim. New ones are around $20 each.
 
Durn, Moss wants 50 bucks for a clutch slave cyl. Think I best check with the local parts house.
 
Jack, Advance Auto has some parts for our cars, as does NAPA. I've even bought parts from CarQuest, a national chain. Depending what the part is, you could save $$$. But, if you want to stay close to original, Tonys the place. PJ
 
My very own rule. Orginal where it can be seen. Smart everywhere else. Like spin on filters, SS bolts. If it feels good do it, hehe. No really, if it looks orginial that's about the best you can do today.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Jack's suggestion of the plastic pump is spot-on. The filler plug/dipstick can sometimes be a real bugger to get out, BTW.



[/ QUOTE ]

...Or to get back in,occasionally! I spent half an hour feeling my way around the transmission with the dipstick the other day. Other times, it's been like the dipstick has a homing device on it and goes right in. I use a funnel with about 5ft of hose to fill the transmission ( I stand outside the passenger's side of the car and hold the funnel just at the top of the passenger side vent window). It's not fast( glug.......glug ) , but I use the time for standing meditation , Taoist breathing exercises, and day dreaming /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif

I've tied a piece of rope to the dipstick "handle" to help get the thing out.
 
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