As mentioned above, this is all you have to do. The servo works by having atmospheric pressure on the rear side of a diaphragm and vacuum on the front. If the diaphragm is intact, you'll have light pedal pressure; if not, it will feel just like an old car without power brakes. The brakes will still function normally, but you'll simply not have the boost. There is a one way valve that plugs into the servo and attaches to the vacuum line from the intake manifold. You can do a suck/blow test to see if it is ok.
One note though. When you remove the master cylinder, you'll see a rod from the front of the booster to the rear of the master. That is adjustable, and if set too wrong, you'll have difficulty. Too short means you'll have too long pedal stroke before engagement. Too long, and you'll never completely release the master cylinder. So be sure to check the manual for rod length if it might have been messed with. (Just checked the shop manual, and there is no specification of rod length or adjustment procedure, so perhaps it is fixed; I cannot remember. But if it is threaded, pay attention to the length it prodrudes into the master cylinder, so that it just touches, but does not push the plunger.)