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Brake Pipes -which one to order

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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

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Bugsy II my '59 BE needs new brake lines. Converting to front disks, later backing plates from a '72 or so. Master converted to 3/4. Not sue of the difference between brake pipes listed as 63-67 disk brakes and '68-74 disk brakes by Moss. Also will need a new union, planning on using the union with built in pressure switch that would fit a '67. Any reason to put in the 4 way union with shuttle? Recommendations guys? Brake lines are many many months away but acquiring parts while cash flow allows.
 
Seems like you'd need the '63-67 lines. I do not see a way to use a shuttle with single brake MC.
 
Trevor, I came to the same conclusion. The union is mounted in a different place as well for '68+ cars, that's got to be the difference in the precut kits, location of where the 4 way

union goes.
 
When I did the disc brake conversion on the Tunebug I used standard Bugeye hard lines -- the hard lines are all the same drum vs disc, just the soft hoses changed. I used the standard 4-way union and screw in pressure switch in the normal Bugeye location. No matter what, you will need to tweak the hard lines on the rear axle a bit, as the later backing plates are slightly rotated on the Bugeye axle.

Some notes from my conversion:
https://www.drooartz.com/index.php?page=61

I used pre-bent lines from Classic Tube -- they were okay, but still required a little bit of tweaking to fit.
 
Drew, that's a very nice write-up. Two questions for you or anyone--aren the A-arms for the disk brakes different than they are for drum brakes? I thought they were all the same. My suspension was rebuilt by a previous owner and is already in really good shape, but I would definitely like to upgrade the brakes.

And, is there any reason that you replaced your rear brakes with drums from the later car? Is the performance of the newer drum brake style significantly better than the one that came on the Bugeye originally?

Thanks,
Charlie
 
Charlie, I do believe Wishbones are all the same but later wishbones are drilled for sway bar and RB wishbones are much heavier ga steel and have extra gussets. Disk brake MC are 3/4" whereas drums are 7/8. I had Gerard resleeved my dual master on my BE. Pedal effort will be strange mixing so upgrade to a later backing plate and 3/4" wheel cylinders is needed.
 
Ah--I'm getting it now, Jim, I think. I had picked up on the fact that the front calipers require the 3/4" sleeved master cylinder, in order to keep the pedal travel reasonable. But you're saying that even with the resleeved cylinder that one needs to convert to the late rear brake cylinders as well. Gosh, even with used parts this project does start creeping up in cost.

Okay--thanks for your help.

Best--CL
 
Not only the wheel cylinders you need the backing plates off of a later Spridget as well. In my case Trevor had a parts car and I was able to get front end calipers and spindles and steering arms. Backing plates one came from two different sources. I put a parts order together last night pads, shoes, springs, union, etc along with brake lines and hoses close to $400 and while it's apart I'll do ball joints as well as shocks plus fit a sway bar. And then tires and wheels and the budget drains quickly. But Bugsy II will show around corners on rails plus stop on a dime.
 
Right, the key really is going to be how much one has to pay for the used parts. I was checking out some of the parts catalogs, and it looks like the later Bugeyes had the same backing plates as the later Sprites--maybe the 3/4 slaves would pop in there? That would be nice! I'll give it a look see.
 
You need some of them free parts car's that Rick B keep's coming up with!!:encouragement:


Kurt.
 
The_architect said:
Drew, that's a very nice write-up. Two questions for you or anyone--aren the A-arms for the disk brakes different than they are for drum brakes? I thought they were all the same. My suspension was rebuilt by a previous owner and is already in really good shape, but I would definitely like to upgrade the brakes.

And, is there any reason that you replaced your rear brakes with drums from the later car? Is the performance of the newer drum brake style significantly better than the one that came on the Bugeye originally?
Click to expand...

As mentioned, A-arms can work for discs or drums, but the later ones have mounts for sway bars. As for the later rear drums, when I did mine it was suggested as best to do them with the disc conversion, honestly can't remember exactly why. If you're rebuilding brakes anyways it is easy enough to do the swap.

I found a local guy parting out a '76 Midget this time around, and was able to get all the brake bits, sway bar, and rear diff for a reasonable cost.
 
Not to mention but the 3/4" wheel cylinders do not fit the older backing plates and orientation of where wheel cylinder is located to connect brake line pipe needs to be massaged to get it to fit. Not an issue if installing new lines at the time.

So if you are looking for conversion parts and pieces just ask this list, Mgexp list, AHexp list, Sprite spot, Bugeye Parts. Spread the word on what you need and you will quickly find it. So what parts are you looking for?
 
Ah--the thing that I can't buy: TIME. Thanks for generously sharing your knowledge Jim and Drew now I know what parts I need to accumulate as time permits. Thanks!
 
There is never enough of that important commodity. When I finally have time available wind chill in the AM will be -20 in Dayton. No work in garage on Bugsy for last 2-3 weeks. Contractor us starting bath remodel project and there is tile work in my future that will not wait. I keep working the project plan amnd reworking but the milestone dates continue to slip. Time need more time. And Spring is 58 days away.
 
Jim_Gruber said:
I keep working the project plan and reworking but the milestone dates continue to slip. Time need more time. And Spring is 58 days away.
Click to expand...

I'm resigned to having Penny off the road for a few years -- the Tunebug took 3 years and that was just engine and suspension work. There were quite a few stretches when I got nothing done, just needed to attend to other things. Day job, night work as a musician, and a spouse makes finding time for the shop hard to do. This is a large part why I picked up the Moto Guzzi, so I would have something to enjoy while I slogged through the restoration work. I'm not a huge fan of restoration work (I won't do this again, Penny's a special case) so I need lots of time away from to avoid getting frustrated.

I've not even tried to make the plan yet, any dates on it would just be wishful thinking anyways. :grin:
 
I know Drew but we need to have a dream. You at least have an idea on when things will be done at the paint shop. That's a major milestone on the project plan.
 
I highly recommend https://fedhillusa.com/ for brake and fuel lines. Their tubing is easier to bend than steel and they have a great web site with all the bits and pieces. They do not have kits...just raw tubing and pieces. Scott in CA
 
Thanks Scott after seeing the price on prevent from Classic Tube $400 IIRC I need a lesser price. Do they quote all of the parts pieces and unions you would need or do you have a parts list from 60Frog you ordered?
 
I would have been more than happy a couple of weeks ago to help you, but I no long have the documents.....all with Bill, the new owner of 60 Frog. I remember it being about $200 for all the tubing, brakes, clutch, and fuel + the fittings. I cleaned up my old unions, and just bought new tube fittings. I saved all the old tubes and used them as patterns. As we all know, the one for the fuel tank must be reused. don't lose that one! Good luck.
Scott in CA
 
Well I'll get Bill to see if he can scan provide the doc to me. So MOSS has tubing kit for $139.95. Do you think their stuff is that much better in terms of ease of install?
 
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