-
Hey Guest!
British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
TR6 Brake pipes TR6
- Thread starter tr6web
- Start date
Share this page
71tr
Jedi Warrior
Offline
If you have a tube bender, a flaring tool and the appropriate threaded nipple-ends then you can cutom build your own brake pipes. If you prefer off the shelf you might try the following sources:
https://www.triumphsonly.com/pages/main/index.html
https://www.stevsonmotors.co.uk/home.htm
https://www.triumphsonly.com/pages/main/index.html
https://www.stevsonmotors.co.uk/home.htm
G
Guest
Guest
Guest
Offline
Mike,
I replumbed the brake lines on my TR6 using the nickel/copper alloy line kit that I bought from Moss. These are extremely easy to bend and the kit comes with all connections. It is an extremely well put together kit that left nothing out. A pleasure to install. Now, that said, you will get varying opinions on the suitability of this metal in brake lines. It is my understanding that this alloy has been used extensively in Europe with Volvos and other makes. Most say that it is not suitable for racing. I have had no problems with the brakes and recommend this kit highly. Call Moss for details.
Bill
I replumbed the brake lines on my TR6 using the nickel/copper alloy line kit that I bought from Moss. These are extremely easy to bend and the kit comes with all connections. It is an extremely well put together kit that left nothing out. A pleasure to install. Now, that said, you will get varying opinions on the suitability of this metal in brake lines. It is my understanding that this alloy has been used extensively in Europe with Volvos and other makes. Most say that it is not suitable for racing. I have had no problems with the brakes and recommend this kit highly. Call Moss for details.
Bill
Mark_Gibson
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Mike,
I echo Bill's thoughts on the Moss brake lines. I just installed them while doing my frame off and they are a pleasure to use. My brakes work like new.
Mark
1970 TR-6
I echo Bill's thoughts on the Moss brake lines. I just installed them while doing my frame off and they are a pleasure to use. My brakes work like new.
Mark
1970 TR-6
Alan_Myers
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Hi,
The copper/nickel line kits are pretty good. I just fitted a set of pipes onto a TR4 and it installed well, bends a bit easier than steel lines. Do watch out for collapse on tighter bends. I ended up shortening some lines that were too long, not satisfied with the common practice of just coiling up extra tubing somewhere under the car. Not a big deal, though, and very easy to re-flare this tubing after it's shortened.
My one concern with copper/nickel is that it's relatively soft and might be more easily damaged by a stone thrown up from a tire, etc. So, I just used some 1/4" I.D. rubber hose to cover and protect the more exposed sections of the pipe. Most of the pipe is tucked well up in the frame or engine compartment, anyway, ouit of harm's way. Of course, it's necessary to remove and re-install the end to slip rubber hose onto the pipe.
The clutch master cylinder pipe was not included in the set, wish it was! I ended up just making up new one from a standard 3/16" steel pipe bought locally, reusing the ends off the old pipe.
Yes, it's really not hard to bend up your own pipes, if you are up for it. Just use the old ones as guides. Correct ends might be a little difficult to find. www.fedhillusa.com seems to have many British-type fittings.
Another thing to watch is that the original fittings on many British cars use a "bubble", not a flare, on any "male" ends (i.e., at the master cylinders and the 3-, 4- and 5-way junctions). I don't know if this is the case with TR6, but it sure is with TR3 and 4. Put a flare on one of these fittings by mistake and it's pretty certain to leak.
P.S. Fed Hill also sells the copper/nickel 3/16" line by the foot. But, it's very expensive. Next time, I might try stainless steel pipe, although fittings might be impossible to get in S/S.
Cheers!
Alan
The copper/nickel line kits are pretty good. I just fitted a set of pipes onto a TR4 and it installed well, bends a bit easier than steel lines. Do watch out for collapse on tighter bends. I ended up shortening some lines that were too long, not satisfied with the common practice of just coiling up extra tubing somewhere under the car. Not a big deal, though, and very easy to re-flare this tubing after it's shortened.
My one concern with copper/nickel is that it's relatively soft and might be more easily damaged by a stone thrown up from a tire, etc. So, I just used some 1/4" I.D. rubber hose to cover and protect the more exposed sections of the pipe. Most of the pipe is tucked well up in the frame or engine compartment, anyway, ouit of harm's way. Of course, it's necessary to remove and re-install the end to slip rubber hose onto the pipe.
The clutch master cylinder pipe was not included in the set, wish it was! I ended up just making up new one from a standard 3/16" steel pipe bought locally, reusing the ends off the old pipe.
Yes, it's really not hard to bend up your own pipes, if you are up for it. Just use the old ones as guides. Correct ends might be a little difficult to find. www.fedhillusa.com seems to have many British-type fittings.
Another thing to watch is that the original fittings on many British cars use a "bubble", not a flare, on any "male" ends (i.e., at the master cylinders and the 3-, 4- and 5-way junctions). I don't know if this is the case with TR6, but it sure is with TR3 and 4. Put a flare on one of these fittings by mistake and it's pretty certain to leak.
P.S. Fed Hill also sells the copper/nickel 3/16" line by the foot. But, it's very expensive. Next time, I might try stainless steel pipe, although fittings might be impossible to get in S/S.
Cheers!
Alan