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Brake Pipe [tubing] Replacement

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Lynn Kirkpatrick

Lynn Kirkpatrick

Jedi Hopeful
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Hi
I have a '68 MGBGT that has sprung a leak in the brake line going to the rear wheels. It is in the tube, not at a connection, and I think the line is the original (4th owner) because it's really corroded.

One of the mail order parts places has them, but another does not. If they don't does that mean we can buy 3/16" brake lines at our local auto parts place and THE FITTINGS WILL FIT? Am I that lucky?

If so, to get the right length, I would have to cut and flare an end or 2. Any secrets or special tools there? I'm trying to see if I'm shooting myself in the foot by trying to make them.

Thanks in advance for your help.
Lynn
 
You should be able to use off the shelf brake lines and they will fit, if I'm not mistaken. Take one end of pipe along with you and match it up. I would suggest however that instead of cutting to length you use multiple lines of shorter length and fittings. Brake lines are under much higher pressure than air lines or even power steering so flaring your own end is asking for trouble. A longer line can always be routed with a few extra bends. Use a line bending jig since you can collapse the lines if you try to bend them freehand.
 
Making them was easy but I bought the Moss stuff. Clutch lines too.
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Lynn, I agree with Vince. You can make a perfect copy of your original lines with a hand tool like he has illustrated. The only advice I can offer is, make the lines with double flair ends which takes a special flaring tool. You may already know that.
 
I think NAPA stores have the lines or can get them along with connectors as long as its both male ends. If you are doing the one under the car its a male and female end as i recall. You will probably need to order one in or have a shop that has the correct flair tool make one for you. I would also look close at the 2 lines that go along the rear end. Alot of them are crushed where a tow truck driver has flipped his big hook over the rear end. Bob
 
Bob said:
I would also look close at the 2 lines that go along the rear end. Alot of them are crushed where a tow truck driver has flipped his big hook over the rear end.
Click to expand...

Amen to that! I know it may come as a shock but: most of those drivers I've come across didn't graduate from M.I.T... When I find one who does the job with professional attention to detail he will get a lot of business from me. Usually the independent guys are the ones who do the best job.

As for the Bundy pipe bending and double flare or "bubble" flare, it takes a bit of practice but it's a good thing to know how to do if you're gonna fuss with LBC's. Nice work, Vinnie. :thumbsup:
 
DrEntropy said:
Bob said:
I would also look close at the 2 lines that go along the rear end. Alot of them are crushed where a tow truck driver has flipped his big hook over the rear end.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Amen to that too! It's the main reason I got under the GT myself. Driver could barely walk let along hook up my car while trying to pull up his pants! As soon as I saw that, I grabbed the hooks from him and crawled under the car that was already on the flatbed. The pics are from the Brake and Clutch MC's but I did the same for all lines on the rear end too. I did it again recently for the gas lines on another GT special I am working on. That $19.95 tool really has paid for itself.

Thanks Doc!
 
You can use the same tools to create double or bubble flares, and you use the same bale hardware with both, but each one requires a different female fitting.

Flare_Fittings.png


Check the fitting to which you want to connect the line. Most of the stock MG fittings require bubble flares, but most aftermarket ones need double flares.

The process for crating the two different flares both start with creating a bubble flare. To create a double flare, you then collapse the bubble with a second die.
 
MGBGT noob - that's not quite right. I know people make a bubble flare by not completing a double flare, and get away with it, but it's not strictly correct.

The underside of a double flare (i.e. the side the nut bears on) is a 90 degree taper - that is, the tube walls slope out at 45deg from the axis. On a bubble, the slope angle is approaching 90deg. I have flaring tools for both, and the double flare tool is countersunk where the tube is gripped, to form the taper. The bubble flaring tool is flat.

There is some nonsense on the web at Dimebank.com, but check Fedhillusa.com for the real deal. No connection!
 
I too had "tow truck driver" rear brake lines. It makes me wonder how many MGs out there have working back brakes...probably not many. I recreated the lines as vping did by buying the Moss parts and using a bending tool with the old line as a template.
 
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