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TR2/3/3A Brake MC Bracket and pedal assembly install
- Thread starter PatGalvin
- Start date
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SteveBones
Jedi Trainee
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Hi Pat,
Your before and after pictures are amazing. Great job.
I went through this same exercise about one year ago. It was a trial and error exercise. I finally figured it out. I will try my best to describe the issue as my reference to the different brake assembly items might not be correct.
The bottom part of the brake assembly (the portion that bolts into the footwell) is what I believe might be the issue. There are the two parts of this lower section where the brake pedals fit. What was happening to me was during the tightening of the four bolts that secure the bottom section (in the footwell) and the top section (where the master cylinders are installed). I found out that during the tightening one of the bottom sections, one of the bottom sections would shift front or back causing the pedals to bind.
There is a slot on each pedal where the one of the bottom section pieces fits into. When I would tighten the four bolts securing the top section (Master cylinders) to the bottom section, this bottom section piece would shift causing the the pedals to bind. After figuring this out, I applied pressure on this bottom section that fit into the break pedal slot so it would not shift. This solved the problem for me.
The funny thing is that I have restored two cars. The first was a TR4 and I did not have this problem. Not sure why it happens but it did take me many installation attempts before figuring it out.
I originally thought the bearing needed to be replaced, but it was not the problem for me.
Not sure if this is clear or helps vs just being confusing. It is something that is easy to show but not as easy to describe.
Good Luck
Your before and after pictures are amazing. Great job.
I went through this same exercise about one year ago. It was a trial and error exercise. I finally figured it out. I will try my best to describe the issue as my reference to the different brake assembly items might not be correct.
The bottom part of the brake assembly (the portion that bolts into the footwell) is what I believe might be the issue. There are the two parts of this lower section where the brake pedals fit. What was happening to me was during the tightening of the four bolts that secure the bottom section (in the footwell) and the top section (where the master cylinders are installed). I found out that during the tightening one of the bottom sections, one of the bottom sections would shift front or back causing the pedals to bind.
There is a slot on each pedal where the one of the bottom section pieces fits into. When I would tighten the four bolts securing the top section (Master cylinders) to the bottom section, this bottom section piece would shift causing the the pedals to bind. After figuring this out, I applied pressure on this bottom section that fit into the break pedal slot so it would not shift. This solved the problem for me.
The funny thing is that I have restored two cars. The first was a TR4 and I did not have this problem. Not sure why it happens but it did take me many installation attempts before figuring it out.
I originally thought the bearing needed to be replaced, but it was not the problem for me.
Not sure if this is clear or helps vs just being confusing. It is something that is easy to show but not as easy to describe.
Good Luck
So my TS38096 does not have studs like Jerry's. See below. But, it appears that bolts go up from underneath, and finished with nuts inside the MC bracket. Thanks for responses and good idea on the brake switch. Yes, pretty ugly parts. they cleaned up quite nicely as you'll see soon.
Pat
OP
PatGalvin
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Hi All.
Update, after a little weekend work on the TR. I had thought the pedal shaft was affixed to on of the pedals. When I drove the shaft out of the bushing and cleaned it up with 600 grit and 1,000 grit, it looked OK. Loaded it up with bearing grease and put it all back together. Fits together easily, when you have taken it all apart properly. Mounted it, and voila, there is no drag in the pedals. Mounted the brake master cylinders and the reservoir supply pipes. If you don't have one of these little brake line bending tools, for fine adjustments in steel lines, I highly recommend it.
Now, to install brake and clutch hydraulic lines.....
Thanks for all the help.
Pat
Update, after a little weekend work on the TR. I had thought the pedal shaft was affixed to on of the pedals. When I drove the shaft out of the bushing and cleaned it up with 600 grit and 1,000 grit, it looked OK. Loaded it up with bearing grease and put it all back together. Fits together easily, when you have taken it all apart properly. Mounted it, and voila, there is no drag in the pedals. Mounted the brake master cylinders and the reservoir supply pipes. If you don't have one of these little brake line bending tools, for fine adjustments in steel lines, I highly recommend it.
Now, to install brake and clutch hydraulic lines.....
Thanks for all the help.
Pat
