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Brake Lines for 59 BE - Dual cylinder conversion

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Bruce_B

Bruce_B

Jedi Warrior
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I'd like to convert my MC/clutch combo to separate cylinders. I already have a pedal box from a later car that I can use with some alterations to the body. Can I just hook up the brake line to the brake cylinder and then hook up the clutch slave cylinder line to the new clutch cylinder? Or will I have to by kits from a vendor such as Classic Tubes

Can I any function of the dual MC/clutch combo with say a plug in either the brake or clutch input? Or will there not be enough room for that plus a Brake or clutch cylinder?

Any recommended years to use for the brake or clutch cylinders?

thanks in advance...
 
The '67 brake MC was a single line unit that mounted into the late model pedal box. If you go that route, then it should all fit with only moderate manipulation of the existing lines.

...I think...never done it myself
 
Do you have front disc brakes? <-important question.
 
If you go that way, a single piston master out of a 67 you kind of miss the point of the dual cyl, safety. When I did it with the dual master, I had done the 5 speed conversion and the clutch drops off on the drivers side. Had to bend that brake line. The two off the brake master I reutilized the old lines from the donor. You are going to run into an issue with the splitter. My sprite guy told me to run the front line to the rear and skip the splitter, run the back to the front brakes utilizing the old splitter off your BE and blank one hole in it. Good Luck.
 
KC,
thanks for the info., not I'm not sure I follow it completely.
Would you be able to post a picture...or PM me.

I'll have to check my brake lines...haven't even identified the splitter yet.
 
Not to hijack the thread but can you explain what a dual line conversion is? I tried searhing for it yeaterday but could only locate carb type posts.

I have what appears to be the dual line but can't confirm what I am looking at without truly understanding what I am looking at. It is confusing because I can see on the cylinder what appears to be a place where another line could be attached in the rear but there is nothing there??

Here is a link to my engine bay and the current set up I have if you need clarification. Appreciate any help.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/ruchtij/Sprite/enginecompt.jpg
 
The way I understand it is that

(1) the early cars had one Master Cylinder to which the brake line (both front and rear), and clutch line were both attached to. If that MC failed...everything failed.

(2) After that came two MC - one for clutch and one for the
Brakes - but it was a single line brake cylinder - one line went into the brake MC and then split into the front and rear brake hydraulics. This could still cause a total brake failure, front and rear, if the brake cylinder failed

(3) Last came the MC for the clutch and a Dual Line Brake Cylinder, one fitting for the front brakes, one for the rear. Now the front and rear brakes could suffer separate failues, not both at the same time. Much Safer.

#3 is probably your car, since I don't know its year. But judging by the size of the fluid reservoir, it's probably the dual line system.
 
So...having just written that brake essay, my next question is if I get a Dual line brake cylinder will a pre-bent brake line kit from the same year (say 1974 MG Midget fit?
 
Bruce, First, bending lines is very, very easy, you needn't get the prebent kit.
Second, if you go the route of a later dual master cylinder pipe kit, it will be set-up for the PWDA valve, which you probably don't want.
Several racecars that I've had the pleasure to work on have been converted as you are doing. Here's what we did.
As you know, you have to cut the footwell bigger for the pedal box.
Plumb the front line from the master to the splitter at the RH inner fender well. You will block off the port that went to the rear. (crimp the line and fold over) Keep the stoplight switch there, then you wont use the inherently defective mechanical one from the new master pedal box.
Plumb the rear port to the rear of the car. Some cars made a union to the existing rear line at the firewall.
This way, all you need to do is buy 1 line going from master to splitter... about 8 bucks. And a line from the master to a convenient pickup point for the rear line. Have the rear line cut and properly flared to take a proper union for the line to the master... couple of more dollars. DO NOT USE COMPRESSION FITTINGS!!
More details, if needed on request.

Peter C.
 
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