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TR2/3/3A brake line replacement

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tomnanney

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When is it time to replace brake lines? I've never done it on my car and it doesn't look like it ever has been done. It's a 1961 TR 3A, and I've owned the car for 25 years. I'm not having any problems with the lines themselves, but was thinking about them.. I'm in the process of replacing rear wheel cylinders and probably rebuilding the front calipers as the left side was sticking. I just didn't want to have to get into replacing the lines! How hard is it and who sells good replacements, if I decide to tackle it.
thanks
tom
 
Do you mean the flexible lines (hoses), or the hard, metal lines?

I don't think there is any need to replace the hard lines, unless there is damage, corrosion, or you just want new shiny ones.

The flexible lines should probably be changes occasionally. Usually once they start to develop cracks on the outer casing, or start getting stiff. But as they can fail internally without showing any exterior problems, it may make sense to go ahead if they are 25 or more years old.
 
Darrell_Walker said:
Do you mean the flexible lines (hoses), or the hard, metal lines?

I don't think there is any need to replace the hard lines, unless there is damage, corrosion, or you just want new shiny ones.

The flexible lines should probably be changes occasionally. Usually once they start to develop cracks on the outer casing, or start getting stiff. But as they can fail internally without showing any exterior problems, it may make sense to go ahead if they are 25 or more years old.
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I mean the steel lines. I replaced the flex lines 5 or 6 years ago with stainless braided lines. I was just wandering about the hard lines.
tom
 
The original metal brake lines on my TS73117 are very high quality (cunifer?) and in in very good condition. If you do replace yours use high quality lines. Tom
 
Good point on the high quality lines comment. When I was debating what to do with mine, Randall made a comment, something to the effect that if I was to go the cheaper route that maybe the money I saved could go towards the cost of the funeral. Point well taken, I bought a cunifer set from Moss.
 
Darrell_Walker said:
I don't think there is any need to replace the hard lines, unless there is damage, corrosion, or you just want new shiny ones.
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I used to believe that, even after I had an accident that I attributed to a hard line rusting through (it had surface damage that I did not know was there).

Then when I was putting TS13571L together in 2008, I went to my bin of old brake parts and tried to pull out one of the links between the reservoir & MC. It was caught on something, so I pulled a bit harder, expecting to lift the line and whatever it was caught on (probably a mounting bracket). Instead, the line literally snapped in my hands! Examination showed no signs of corrosion or previous damage, and the steel line was not deformed (proving that I hadn't pulled very hard on it). It just broke!

Now obviously, that section doesn't see any pressure in operation. But it appeared to be the same construction (basically solder-coated seamless steel tubing) as the other brake lines. So if it broke, the lines that do see pressure (as much as 1000 psi in a panic stop) might do so as well. Not a fun thing to lose your brakes, as I've learned several times now. And even a properly working handbrake is surprisingly ineffective at stopping the car quickly.

I promptly ordered a set of Cunifer lines from Moss (made by Automec in the UK). To be honest, I did not finish installing them as I was in a hurry to get the car finished in time to drive to VTR 2009. But the sections I did install went in easily. The Cunifer bends much easier than steel does, although it is still a good idea to use a mandrel to avoid kinking the line. I still plan to install the rest of the set, but there are some higher priority things on my plate (like repairing the damage from the pickup truck that "didn't see me").

One other lesson learned : The Cunifer abrades easily, without making the kind of noise I'd expect from steel. So be sure the jumpers on the calipers are neatly tucked down where the wheel cannot rub on them. This little mistake caused a total failure of the hydraulic brakes (fortunately just as I came to a stop in a parking lot).

 
I had the original stainless steel brake lines off the car and since the lines had been sitting for a while I needed to clean them out. They were in good shape and quite strong and cleaned up nicely with steel wool, so I decided to re-use them. To get the old dried crud out I used rubbing alcohol and a copper wire to flush out the lines. First I sealed the end of the lines with some tape, then I used a ball syringe to suck up the alcohol and then squirted it into the tubes, let it sit for a while, a day or two. I removed the tape from one side putting the wire (I used some old hobby wire I had on hand that just happened to be small enough to fit into the tube and strong enough not to break) with a very slight bends every inch or so along the first three inches or so of the wire. I went very slowly and did not try to force the wire to hard through the bends, I twisted it around and tried to sort scrape the sides. There were some spots that I could not get the wire to go all the way in so I let those areas soak longer. I blew out the lines with compressed air and all kind of bad looking stuff was flushed out! I did this a couple of times until the alcohol that I pushed through the lines was clear. Hopefully all the crud is gone! I'll know for sure when I put the brake lines together. I plan to use silicon fluid so I don't mess up the new paint on the car.
 
Okay you are right there were just steel ....
 
DornTRoriginal said:
Okay you are right there were just steel ....
Click to expand...
It's actually a special construction, developed specifically for brake lines. Seamless steel tubing, plated inside and out with "terne", a lead/tin alloy that resists corrosion. These days of course they don't use lead, it's a tin/zinc alloy instead.
 
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