Brake line configuration.

[Trevor Jessie]

OK, So I have not been able to work on the cars since I'm on a mission to straighten the garage and get some painting around the house finished. But I've been thinking about what I want to do with the Bugeye. It will have a 1275 and a 5 speed, and modern wiring. One of my goals is to unclutter the engine bay. So the fuse box and regulator are going to be removed. I think I want to use a late model pedal box with seperate master cylinders. However, I want to minimize the brake lines. So I was thinking about running the rear line straight back, and the front line to a proportiong valve on the driver's side inner fender. Suggestions or comments? Any other suggestions on how to unclutter the engine bay without removing the essentials? Heater must stay.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Hmmm... I think the proportionaing valve is needed for the rear...

anyone awake out there?

 

[jlaird]

Could not get on Trevor, this site has been bad today.

Why bother with the clutch and brakes. Use the orginal, it really works fine when is kept in repair.

The 1275 and the ribbed box will slip right in. Heck I would not change the wireing either except maybe to replace with a new loom. They work well when are in good shape.

The little cars need a bit more power is all. Now if you are going to race it that's a different matter all together.

My 2 cents.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

The front brakes need to be upgraded to discs for better stopping power needed for my driving style. I was thinking of seperate brake/clutch just for safety reasons (one less place to lose brake fluid).

Wiring... I started listing the alterations I would need to a stock harness
1. altenator (since I am using a sepentine belt with the supercharger)
2. daytime running light circuit
3. relay for higher power halogen (not quite street legal, but I have night vision issues)
4. electric fuel pump
5. courtesy lights and boot area light (we frequently travel at night )
6. unswitched brake light circuit
7. accessory ports
8. horn relay
9. hazard flashers
10. etc.

I know I could accomplish much of this while retaining the staock harness, but then things start getting messy. And... there is much of this that I could do without. However, while I'm at it, I want it configured to suit my needs. I'm not trying to make it a modern car... but make improvements to it that will not destroy the character of the car.

The car is not a good candidate for a concours restoration, which is why I bought it. However, when nonspridget people look at it I do not want it to be obvious to them how heavily modified it it. So... no plastic wire looms, no modern fuses sitting out in plain sight, etc.

 

[jlaird]

But Trevor if you are not going to race you do not need other than stock brakes. The stock ones will lock all four up any old time. Discs are only good to disipate heat when raceing. Save your self some money and time for other things.

Well your choice of course on the wireing but I would just add a relay for the headlights and tap in for what ever else I wanted. With a new loom you will also find that all the horor stories you hear about Lucas will go away.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

I've had no problems with the stock loom in my Midget other than a few bullet connectors that needed to be replaced. But I've got a page of notes stapled to my wiring diagram to try and keep track of the changes. It doesn't make sense to but a wiring harness then start adding and removing wires from it.

Jack, drum brakes on the front of my car would be about useless given how I drive. I've made my calipers slippery on more than one occasion. And I understand that if front drums lock up the wheels that the rest is up to your tires and the mercy of God, but if the discs lock up a split second faster it could make a huge difference when stopping from 80 mph.

 

[zimmy]

a supercharged bugeye....now ur pushing the limits Trevor ; )..... itll be cool.........z

 

[jlaird]

I think 80 is raceing. Bugeyes only go 70 in stock trim.

Have fun with the mods. Darn a supercharger, how cool.

 

[GB1]

Trevor,

Please see the attached for how I ran mine. They caught up to the four splitter in its original MKIII location. I hope this helps.

Jack:

With the stock 1275 80 was np for GB. I am hoping to break 100 after this round.

Patrick

 

[BWillis]

patrick do you have any other pictures of your car? Any in progress shot during the rebuild?

Nice color BTW.

 

[GB1]

Yes Ben, tell me what you would like to see?

Or if you PM your email I can send a bunch of them.

Patrick

 

[spritenut]

Trevor

I run a dual master set up in my Bugeye but not the tandem master.
I use the 67 Sprite brake master and a seperate clutch master. I PM a seperate message with a picture of the 69 Rally car. I can't figure out how to do attachements on this forum.
No funky 6 way valve/switch, just the 4 way spliter. Also it uses the later pedal box.

 

[jlaird]

My word Pat, now I know for sure what my next project is going to be after I get Miss Agatha finished. A warmed over 1275. Or at least a very warmed over 998. Think I'll start with a cam, head when I can find one, and H2 carbs. That should give me a goal.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Thanks for all the suggestions. Pat, did you consider moving the junctions to the driver's side? Since my datsun slave cylinder is on the drivers side, I wouldn't need to run any lines around the firewall or heater box.

 

[GB1]

Trevor:

I adapted a MKIII plumbing design and tried to make it cleaner (off the firewall). Honestly, now that the engine is installed with a oil can/breather mounted, there will not be as much room on the drivers after I mount the K&N's. It probably can be done if laid out properly, I went with the tried and true method.

Patrick