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Brake light sensitivity adjustment

peteatgr

Senior Member
Offline
My brake lights are working but require much to much pressure on the pedal to make them illuminate. I have found the brake light switch in the engine bay, but there does not seem to be any way to adjust when the lights come on in relation to pedal pressure/travel. Is this a preset switch that needs to be swapped out or is there some way to make an adjustment in the system?
 
HI peteatgr, What car are you talking about.?My experience with the Healey is there is no adjustment associated with the brake switch.??--Keoke
 
Hi Pete,
As Keoke says, there is no pressure adjustment on the pressure operated switch.

My very old switch requires only light pressure to operate. There have been quite a few complaints about the repro switches not working correctly. Maybe a NOS switch would work correctly, if you can find one.

It seems like more & more folks are converting to a mechanically actuated switch on the pedal linkage. Such switches are available from many "street rod" vendors.
D
 
Hi Keoke,

Mine is a BJ8. The switch appears to just be a fitting screwed into the brake line connector with a two wire connection. I thought maybe there was some secret way to adjust its sensitivity. I suspect the internal working of the switch is dirty from sitting with fluid in it for years. The quick answer, I guess, is to change outhe switch. Thanks.
 
I think you are correct there Peteatgr---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
HI Dave, I guess we all have had a day with the brake switch.When I first got my car the brake switch would stick closed.After a few dead batteries I got mad.I took the switch out and threw it up against a concrete wall.Recognizing I did not have a replacement handy,I reluctantly walked over picked it up and reinstalled it in the car.Do you know!, that switch is still in my car and has not given me a drop of trouble since.--Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif
 
I wonder... if there were an air bubble trapped in the switch might that cause these problems- and pulling the switch, giving it a quick clean and "prime" with fluid might fix the problem? Maybe....
 
Well Jim, That just might work in some cases. In my reported case above if it was an air bubble I surely got rid of it.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
My brake light switch worked much better after priming it with brake fluid prior to installaion. I won't say it works as well as the OEM unit, but it is now acceptable. If I hadn't seen it myself, I wouldn't have believed that a bitty little air bubble could cause the the lights to be so tempramental.
 
[ QUOTE ]

It seems like more & more folks are converting to a mechanically actuated switch on the pedal linkage. Such switches are available from many "street rod" vendors.


[/ QUOTE ]
Be prepared to hand fabricate a mounting bracket if you buy one of those mechanical replacement switches. It turned out to be quite a project and it's a good thing that I am building a " driver " !
 
When my brake switch became problematic earlier this summer I considered going to a pedal-activated swich but after thinking over the time, effort and probable expense involved I simply opted to replace the switch. I think the current run of switches aren't of the highest quality. The last switch lasted two-three years as did its predecessor. I got the new one (in a box marked "Made in UK" but who knows) from Healey Surgeons and it works just fine.
 
There is some thought that silicone brake fluid doesn't work well with the current brand of switches on the market. After running through a switch a year for a couple of years I decided to change to a pedal activated switch. I used a MGB switch and mounted it on the backside 'lip' of the heater duct by the pedals. I also ran the wires from the old switch location in the engine bay to allow an easy change back to a fluid pressure swich.
It took me about a half day, probably could be done quicker if you plannned it better.
Works great and no one tells me my brake lights aren't working anymore!

Bob McElwee
62 BT7
 
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