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brake job on '63 BJ7

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markclark1556

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First time on this site. Hello!

I want to do a brake job on a '63 BJ 7 and can't remove the front disk. Any suggestions. I removed the brake calipers and can't get the rotors off. I would love to hear from anyone with an answer.
 
I got my rotors off of my 61 BT7 just recently. Had to take off the hubs by removing the dust cover in the hub, then the cotter pin and the nut. My bearings need replacing and Im learning it's more of a project than I bargined for. So I got the rotors cut and rebuilding the calipers while it's all apart anyway. I certinly never want to mess with these bearings again. Good luck. You might want to check out the thread I started " front wheel bearings" the guys have given me a ton of super helpful feedback.
 
Stianless and pitted pretty badly. The bearings were shot too. Markclark1556, I stongly suggest you check out that bearing thread before getting started.
 
markclark1556 said:
First time on this site. Hello!

I want to do a brake job on a '63 BJ 7 and can't remove the front disk. Any suggestions. I removed the brake calipers and can't get the rotors off. I would love to hear from anyone with an answer.
Click to expand...

HI welcome to the forum, you can do a brake job without removing the rotors.

Consequently, if you do not have a known reason to remove them,I suggest you leave them alone until you become more familiar with the intricacies of their removal and reinstallation,

It was previously noted there is good information here on the forum and they entail a little more than meets the eye.--Keoke
 
Good advice Keoke, If I would have known what I was getting into I probbably would have never gotten started. Turns out it was a neccesary evil, cause they were in really bad shape.Can't wait till payday so I can return the wrong bearings that I ordered the first time and re-order the correct ones that cost more than twice the first ones.
 
I have found that dedicated bearing supply outfits charge less for the same bearings than the parts houses, as bearings are not specific to our autos only. -- elrey
 
Well.. my rotors are very rusty and that is why I want to remove them (to have them serviced). To Donny L: you said you removed the dust cover and cotter pin.. I have wire wheels with spinners and if I remove the cotter pin I will be able to back out the castelated (sp?) wheel nut but , does that mean that I will then be able to remove the hub and brake disk as one unit? The problem I thought that might create is "how will I replace the cotter pin in the castelated nut once I put it back together ( the pin must be 2 1/2 inches back inside the hub?" Any thoughts, Thanks, Mark
 
How rusty? If it is only surface rust. No problem. If deeply pitted, grooved or worn too thin you will have to replace, but many times after sitting awhile they will develop a coating of rust that will cause no problem. --elrey
 
markclark1556 said:
Well.. my rotors are very rusty and that is why I want to remove them (to have them serviced). To Donny L: you said you removed the dust cover and cotter pin.. I have wire wheels with spinners and if I remove the cotter pin I will be able to back out the castelated (sp?) wheel nut but , does that mean that I will then be able to remove the hub and brake disk as one unit? The problem I thought that might create is "how will I replace the cotter pin in the castelated nut once I put it back together ( the pin must be 2 1/2 inches back inside the hub?" Any thoughts, Thanks, Mark
Click to expand...
There's a hole in the spline that lines up with the hole in the stub-axle, so that you can remove & install the cotter-pin.

The cotter-pin can be fitted from either the 12:00 or 9:00 position, whichever suits the torque value better.

IMG_7534.jpg


IMG_7535.jpg


Edit: this shot shows the access hole in the front splined hubs.

IMG_6982.jpg
 
markclark1556


If it is only surface rust on the rotor it will be removed when the brakes are used. However, Again I can not stress highly enough that you get a factory manual which will cover this subject and read it.-- :hammer:---Keoke
 
Sure is nice to have your pictures, Randy. Not to mention your intimate knowledge of these autos! --elrey
 
markclark1556 said:
The problem I thought that might create is "how will I replace the cotter pin in the castelated nut once I put it back together ( the pin must be 2 1/2 inches back inside the hub?" Any thoughts, Thanks, Mark
Click to expand...
Hi Mark,
There should be a hole in your hub that will line up with the axle stub cotter pin hole. Turn the hub until these holes match up. Stick a pair of needle nose pliers in the hub and insert the cotter pin in through the hub hole, grab it with the pliers and guide it into the axle hole. Rotate the hub 180°and use a small flat screwdriver to bend the cotter by putting it in the same hub hole 'til it contacts the longer tang of the cotter. Then rotate the hub to bend.
 
:iagree: Buy the factory manual! Well written insurance against costly mistakes! Mr. Learn by doing --elrey
 
Crumbs Randy, from memory, I did not notice that there were two holes in the stub axle when I did my rotors on the BJ7, not that it affected the outcome any way. Mind you, that was a few years ago and a few pints have flowed down the gullet to dull the gray matter since then. !
 
I would say that the first time you work on the front hubs from a Healey, is one of the most inspirational jobs you can do. You are constantly saying "why did they design it that way, it makes no sense...."
 
You are constantly saying "why did they design it that way, it makes no sense...."

Only if you were lucky enough not to have taken a course called "Strength of Materials "---Keoke-- :cry:
 
Keoke, I missed the class, but I've been forunate to find this forum and I now understand, at least in theory, why they designed the hubs that way. I didn't have a clue back when I did my first bearing repack. Now it makes sense....
 
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