• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

brake issues

Share this page

djk

djk

Freshman Member
Offline
I'm having break issues; the first stroke travels a lot and the second is better. I've adjusted the rear brakes to the maximum number of turns (the Bugeye has a screw adjuster), and tested that the rear break pads are adjusted correctly. I've also bled the brakes but am still having problems. Any ideas on what I need to try next?

-Debra
 
Debra, are you still running the drums on the front, or have you switched to discs? If you still have the drums, they are probably out of adjustment as well. I have seen new brake shoes that had lining material that was too thin, and no amount of adjustment would take up all the slack. That one drove me nuts on a Bugeye last year.
But from your post, I have a hunch you have discs. If so, check the condition of the front pads, as if they are too thin, it will take an extra pump to take up the clearance between the pads and the rotor.
Once you get a firm pedal, does it stay up when you push it, or gradually bleed down? If it creeps down, you probably have an internal leak in the Master cylinder. If it stays up, you need to bleed the brakes again.
Jeff
 
I have front disc and rear drum. I changed out the front brake hoses to steel braided and bled the system 2x. When I do get a firm pedal, it stays up (not squishy), so it wouldn't seem that I have air in the lines or a leak. I'll check the front pads and bleed again like you suggested.
Thanks
 
Back
Top