Brake Fluid Removed Paint

[Burkee]

Bought the car in October and hadn’t noticed this area inside by brake line. Does this look fairly recent or could this have been done when a line was replaced. Nothing damp, but metal starting to rust. Reservoir appears to be holding fluid.

 

[BobHaskell]

If it was recent, I'd think that you'd see fluid, bubbling paint.

Not an original brake line. The only rubber lines are from the front shock towers to the front brakes and to the rear axle.

 

[roscoe]

To me that looks like simple poor paint preparation in that area. Is there any sign of primer paint? Perhaps they got tired of etching and cleaning and just shot some top coat. Usually when brake fluid or some other chemical dissolves a paint layer there are some crinkly edges where chemical action is still going on. That looks like it just flaked off in that area. Keep an eye out, there may be more to come. Not the worst thing you could find. Just clean, etch and repaint if you like.

 

[Burkee]

Another shot shows some crinkling further down, but I agree with your thoughts. No sign of primer. Car was stored in a heated garage for many years and now it’s not. Glad it doesn’t appear to be fluid damage. Appreciate your help. Ed

 

[gonzo]

Bummer but fortunately fixable with proper prep and matched paint. Not too difficult to cover up in the engine compartment.

 

[Burkee]

What’s the best method to etch it? Would a wire wheel work, followed by primer and paint. Would a rattle can of Colorado Red do it?

 

[roscoe]

Rust removal has a myriad of methods, some better than others. There are self etching primers that come in rattle cans. A wire wheel is good for removing flakey rust but then a roloc or scotchbrite type pad on a grinder might get you to bare ( shiny) metal. There are many products that etch and leave a phosphate coating which is rust resistant and good under most paints. Hardware or big box stores often have a good selection. For spot repairs on parts you won't see, rattle cans are fine by me. That being said the fiddly part of any paint job is in the prep work if you want it to last. Spend your time getting rid of any trace of rust and clean, clean, clean again befor you lay down any paint. Youtube will have dozens of rust repair videos.

 

[Burkee]

Thanks very much!

 

[gonzo]

For hidden and out of the way sections on your Healey, you might find Rust-Oleum "Sunrise Red" to be a good match. I use it to touch up areas on the frame and wheel liners.

 

[Burkee]

Much appreciated!

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Online reviews vary--some negative--but I've had success with 'rust converter' products. Scrape off the flakey/blistered paint, feather the edges and apply and let flash off several light coats then let dry for 24hrs. Apply top coat (agree 'Sunrise Red' is close to Colorado Red). The benefit of the converter products is, since rust penetrates, you can remove most of the surface rust but unless you dip or blast some will remain to grow again (it isn't called 'cancer' for nothing). I suspect some of the negative comments are due to improper application, esp. letting dry at least 24hrs.

A couple decades ago I had a cheap wheelbarrow that whose bottom was beginning to rust through, I used a converter and paint and the metal is still in good shape after being left in the elements. I think the Permatex works best (Loctite has a similar product):

Amazon.com

 

[Burkee]

Thanks. I’ve heard of some of those products and wlll give it a try. What do you mean by flash off?

 

[roscoe]

Flashing off refers to solvents in the paint evaporating , moving towards being dry. It may also imply not allowing the paint to not dry completely so that when you apply another coat it will bond more effectively to a " damp" coat, rather than a completely dry coat.