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brake drum work, proper jack points

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tri_carb_healey

tri_carb_healey

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hello fellow healeyists!!
i'm getting ready to replace the brake shoes in my bt7, and im wondering where should i jack the car up to not stress the frame?
also any tips or cautions about this job would be great. my dad isn't around anymore and it's been at least ten years since we replaced the brakes!! it seems pretty straight forward from the diagrams in my manual a simple bait and switch and then some adjusting and bleeding! also, i know i bleed from the farthest wheel from the cylinder first, but is it the same concept as bleeding the clutch, pump and hold, bleed and repeat? i know i sound silly but i'm a young guy who's poor so i gotta do this diy style any help is appreciated. thank you all and god bless!!
 
hello!!
I'm getting ready to replace the brake shoes in my bt7, and im wondering where should i jack the car up to not stress the frame?

Rear end:

Under the pumpkin and place jack stands at each end of the diff housing.

Front end:

Under the spring Pans with jack stands installed when wheels are clear of the ground.

Alternately, a secure wooden support can be placed between the jack and the front cross member and the jack stands slid into place.It is recommended that the emergency brake be on and the rear of the car is still on the ground
 
Ditto Keoke. I've found I need to jack and brace the front first, then the rear. I can only get to the diff with a floor jack on the passenger side at about a 45deg angle (after the front has been jacked-up). Do this only on a level, flat, smooth concrete surface and be super careful. Theoretically, you only need to jack the rear but here in earthquake country I prefer the car to be level when on jacks (it's ridden through a Richter 4 or so earthquake on jackstands).

Back the adjusters off most/all the way to make the drums easier to remove (don't forget to release the e-brake).

If you haven't had the drums off in a while don't be surprised if there's some leakage around the wheel cylinders. Also, check for leaking around the hub seal. Not to discourage you, but there may be some surprises in there (you may find the shoes don't need replacing after all). Make sure the surfaces of the new shoes are perfectly perpendicular to the backing plate--there are adjustable pedestals behind the shoes (check your manual). Also, the pedestals have a felt washer on the end to hold a little oil to lube the pedestals/shoes as they slide. Replace these if necessary, and oil them lightly.

Check the drums for deep grooves or heat checking. Chances are the drums will be OK with only light grooves. I can't get anybody to turn the drums because no one can find minimum thickness specs (in CA it's illegal to turn drums without a spec or below the minimum thickness).

To bleed, pump the pedal 2-3 times and hold--you'll need an assistant--then unscrew the bleed screw until the pedal bottoms. Close the bleed screw and repeat until you get clear fluid and no bubbles. Some say to pump slow so as not to agitate air into the system.
 
tri_carb_healey said:
hello fellow healeyists!!
i'm getting ready to replace the brake shoes in my bt7, and im wondering where should i jack the car up to not stress the frame?
also any tips or cautions about this job would be great. my dad isn't around anymore and it's been at least ten years since we replaced the brakes!! it seems pretty straight forward from the diagrams in my manual a simple bait and switch and then some adjusting and bleeding! also, i know i bleed from the farthest wheel from the cylinder first, but is it the same concept as bleeding the clutch, pump and hold, bleed and repeat? i know i sound silly but i'm a young guy who's poor so i gotta do this diy style any help is appreciated. thank you all and god bless!!
Click to expand...
Ditto on the posted "jacking points". You may want to consider sendin g your drums to be balanced at Hendrix. It made a big difference in my Healey.
Patrick
 
I fully agree with Patrick that you should balance the drums. My rear drums were 5 oz and 3.5 oz off, which is huge! Hendrix would certainly do a great job, but I did just fine with my Harbor Freight bubble balancer. I balanced mine by removing material rather than by trying to add weights. Tedious, but the car is MUCH smoother on the road.

Bob Frisby
Boise, Idaho
'62 BT7 tricarb
 
Drive the rear wheels on a stack of two 2x6 boards nailed together. I have mine off set by 6 inches. Then jack up the front. I use a 1/4 inch steel plate 14 inches long under the front cross member.I had a lip welded onto it so it will not slip. The wood will then allow you to get a floor jack under the rear pumpkin. Important to use jack stands on all four corners. And don't forget to release the parking brake. Back off on the square adjusting screw before you try to take off the drum. You will use these lifting techniques over and over as long as you have a Healey so spent for a low floor jack (Harbor Fright on sale now for $59.00) and stands.
 
BTW, why do you think the shoes need replacing? Unless you're doing a lot of stop-and-go driving or racing--most of us don't do either--the rear shoes should be good for 75K miles or more (unless they get oiled-up).
 
They may not need replacing, but 10 years is a long time, would probably be prudent to inspect for wear or leaks from the hydraulics or rear axle. I would guess it is well beyond factory service and inspection point.
 
If they get oiled up they will never wear out!
 
thanks guys for all the advice. the shoe came off the metal plate so im going to replace them what kind of oil do i use to lightly lube the shoes? also my manual is very vague on the procedures for replacement and i don't want to have to open it all up again to fix a mistake. is there a write up somewhere? maybe for a car with the same rear braking system? i have no brakes right now! none my fault. i was dying to find out why the rear end was wobbling so bad. so i opened up the drum and found a destroyed shoe! i yanked it out and drove home. by the time i got home the brake system was filled with air and i dont know how i made it back honestly. anyways a detailed write up would be the bomb or perhaps a recommendation for a better manual. i have an autobooks one right now
 
Replacing the shoes is straightforward, not like 'auto adjusters' which can be a PITA. IIRC there are different shaped notches on either end of the shoe--one end goes in the wheel cylinder and the other goes in the adjuster. Pay attention to the one you didn't pull the shoe out of to see how everything fits (do it last so you have a reference).

Since you took a shoe out you probably pushed a piston out of the wheel cylinder. Check the condition of the seal on the piston and be sure to clean up any fluid that got away (have a couple cans of aerosol brake cleaner handy).

Check that the wheel cylinder can slide back and forth a little (it's supposed to be able to).

You don't want any oil near the linings--just a drop of oil or thin grease on the felt bushings on the end of the shoe standoffs (aka pedestals).

I don't know a surefire way to check that the shoe surface is parallel to the inside of the drum. I just get a carpenter's square and try to get the lining perpendicular to the backing plate. Has worked OK. Yours probably won't need to be tweaked, but check to be sure.

Clean up the inside of the drum with emery cloth. Hopefully, you won't have any big ridges.
 
On Healey.org,

Roger Moment has a good guide series,
Look at Restoration Series Part 30 02/16/2011
One Approach to Restoring an Austin-Healey

by Roger Moment with Gary Anderson (Thanks to John Hodgman for his critical review)
Part 30: Rear Axle, Springs and Brakes

We’re now ready to add the heavy mechanical components. However, since there are serious potential risks, safety must be top priority. Additional people to assist, particularly those with experience in performing these tasks will be extremely helpful.
 
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