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Tips
Tips

BRAKE/CLUTCH FLUID

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seperate systems.

My clutch hydraulics blew up when the broken taper
pin got stuck and built up much back pressure on
the plastic line when I pushed down on the pedal.

Does your clutch pedal feel "sticky" when you let it out?

d
 
According to your Commission number you should
have the reservoir that looks like a small can
with a screw on top. Below the reservoir you
should have two master cylinders with push
rods sticking out the front which are separate
but identical in appearance and all should be
Girling manufactured. Is that correct?

Well, yes and no. Yes on the reservoir can, no label. The cylinders are identical except that the clutch cylinder looks exactly like the one in the Moss catalog, but the front fitting on the top of the brake cylinder is tilted forward at a 45 degree angle instead of straight up and down like the back one. Is that just a different make? I didn't see anything on either that identified them as Girling.

Fred
 
Sorry, I missed your post, Tinster, before my last. No, the clutch feels fine. I would have thought I would get some indication with the reservoir completely empty.

Fred
 
Fred,

Just thinking ahead. Find the exact source of the leak then we'll figure out exactly what you have. Digital camera a big help with parts id if you have one just ask Tinster.
 
Fred, Harry is correct.

I use my digital camera often.
Particularly in the close-up mode.
You can many times get your camera lens
where you cannot get your eyes.

Then you can post photos here and let
the experts help you out.

D
 
Why?

I used Dot 5 for about two years on a SoCal driven TR6. Great stuff. Didn't eat the paint, seals stayed tight. Only problem I had is when I converted my clutch to a McLeod hydraulic Throw out bearing, the rubber o-ring seals in the McLeod weren't compatible with the silicone.

I drove that car HARD, brakes worked great. Now here in Hawaii I've got less than two years on a master cylinder rebuild on the brakes and LMA fluid, guess what pedal slides to the floor every so often. Shoulda put silicone in it.
 
Experiences differ.

I first discovered the necessity of Castrol brake fluid with British rubber back in 1969. Seems the rubber composition of British and those built to British specs has more natural rubber in it. The Castrol equipped Austins, Jags, MG's, Triumph's, Sunbeams, AC's, Ford's Lotus', Jensens, that I came in contact with(worked on regularly at indy shop) lasted longer than those that did NOT use Castrol
.
One thing that most people are not made of aware of is that all non synthetic brake fluid is hygroscopic. Not hydroscopic, hyGroscopic. That means it absorbs moisture. Brake fluid(and clutch fluid) needs to be flushed/replaced regularly. Standard is every two years maximum. Do that with new hydraulics and you should never have to replace any rubber seals again.
 
A hint that you might find helpful. When researching a leak, suspected into the brake booster, use a flexible dipstick, pipestem, plastic tie-rap, remove the vacuum line(use silicone spray around the grommet if it's hard and getting brittle) to reach down to the bottom of the reservoir. When you extract the "dipstick" if there's any fluid on it, you know it's time for a booster rebuild.
 
Finally got a chance to get back to the car today, and this is what I found. Put a nice clean absorbant pad under the slave cylinder, then filled both the brake and clutch reservoir with fluid. Pumped both brake and clutch about ten times each, both felt good. Nothing on the pad under the slave cylinder, nor under any of the wheels that I could see. Got the front up on blocks and wiped down the lines and fittings to the cylinder per Harry's instructions, then pulled back the rubber dust cover to see the front of the slave. I can't see any leakage in any of these places, but there is a lot of light fluid on the bottom of the engine block above the front of the cylinder as I reported before. Doesn't look like anything new today, though. Pulled both front wheels and looked around there real good, and up the lines and also don't see anything there. Didn't have time to get to the rear wheels. I've attached a link to some pictures on Yahoo! Several of the master cylinders, a couple of the spray on the engine block, one of the front of the slave cylinder, and one of the fitting on the left brake caliper (fuzzy). Notice the fittings on the brake master, the front one is at a 45 degree angle instead of straight up and down - I can't find a picture of one like that in any of my catalogs.

https://new.photos.yahoo.com/habanero_nut/albums

Think I will drive it very carefully for a bit, checking brake fluid in addition to oil and water each day before starting out. Then, get it up on the rack at the VTR club garage as soon as possible, and get some expert help there to look it all over with me.

Could the fluid just have evaporated? Someone posted here that it wouldn't, and someone else hinted it could have. What's the concensus? Will it or not?

Thanks again for all the info and help.

Fred
 
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