TR2/3/3A Brake caliper with ?ball bearing?

[tr3guy]

I hope this isn't a silly question, but, while in the process of restoring the breaking system, in my TR3A, TS 68710, I found what appeared to be a small ball bearing, a little larger than a BB stuck in the bottom of the brake fluid inlet hole on the right hand caliper. I can't imagine how it got there or why it should be there since it effectively blocks the flow of fluid into the caliper. I would be willing to entertain any reasonable explanation of why it should be there, but I think it should come out. I thought it could be removed easily with a magnet, but no luck. I have never had the brakes operational, and the body of the car is off the frame, in the body shop. I guess I could wait until everything is back together and try reversing the fluid back through the bleeder valve hole when the pistons are back in, but that could be several months down the road. Any thoughts on how to get it out???

 

[TR3driver]

Are you sure that's not the bleed hole? ISTR the feed line goes in at right angles to the bolts on that style of caliper.

Anyway, I would probably split the halves and drive it out with a long punch through the passage. Although it's not normally recommended to open them up, there is a seal in there that likely needs to be replaced anyway.

The bleed valve seals against a tapered seat that is under that ball. I'm guessing there is some damage to the seat (or perhaps the bleed screw was bad) and someone used the ball to keep it from leaking. So you probably want to get a look at that seat before going any farther.

 

[2liter4cyl]

If there is any fluid in the caliper, putting pressure on the pistons might blow it out?

Le T

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Show me a photo of the actual bleed valve "tapered" end for that caliper.
I would never dream of telling someone with a TRiumph what is and isn't right....but I will say a whole lot of British Calipers I have run into over the decades have exactly that.
The bleed valve sometimes has a small taper around the end (sometimes squared off) with a flat end and a dimple (whether factory or from decades of CINCHING down on the bleeder) to center the ball.
Usually directly replaceable with a normal tapered end bleed screw.
Never apply air pressure to pop it out with calipers off unless you intend to rebuild...as the pistons will exit the housing at a high rate of speed.
Stick the calipers back onto the rotors, spin the mount bolts in a couple of turns, put the (cleaned port) bleeder back in a couple of turns and apply air with a rubber tipped nozzle.
If you do NOT put the cleaned port bleeder back in a couple of turns, whatever is in the trajectory path of that ball bearing will A) imbed itself in your leg, B) dimple a wing across the shop, or C) take out a window pane in the shop.
Then decide how you want to proceed with re-using ball type bleeder or buy replacement tapered type bleeders.

BTW, my 1964 Jag had all ball bearing style bleeders when I go it. It does not now.

 

[Geo Hahn]

As mentioned - the ball bearing in the bleeder was a feature on E-Types (and possibly others). On those you could usually extract the ball with a magnet as it was just sitting there loose once the bleed screw was removed.

 

[tr3guy]

Thanks Randall. I think you've solved at least half of my problem. The bleed valve does go out to the side of the caliper, and the brake line comes in at the top. I was thinking the reverse, like my TS 53000+ TR3 which does have the bleeder coming out the top. I looked at the picture in the parts catalog, and there it was. It will still be necessary to get the BB out, and inspect the seat, but perhaps it will pop out when the brakes are pressurized and the bleed valve backed off a bit. Anyhow, you've been a great help, as usual.

Thanks,
Jim