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TR2/3/3A Bonnet stay rod 1960 tr3 a

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Tinkerman

Tinkerman

Darth Vader
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If ay one has a picture of the catch mechanism and how it is mounted I sure would appreciate you posting it. I'm trying to get mine mounted and the head of the clevis pin looks like it will stick out far enough to hit the apron. I did put some SS flat washers between the head of the clevis pin and the mounting point. That may be the problem.
Any thoughts, ideas and/or pictures will be most welcome!

Thanks, Tinikerman
 
Sorry I don't have any photos. But the head of the pin does come very close to the apron. I'm not surprised it hits if you've added washers under the head.
 
I had to install a new catch lever so I had to remove the old rivet and make a pin with a head and hole for a cotter pin. After installation the head of the pin was so close to the apron, I removed it and put it in the lathe and removed half the thickness of the head. It is still very close to hitting! Just the way it is.

John
 
Photos of mine. I suppose how close it is depends on the size of the rivet being used and what your front gap is set at:

Bonnet%20Latch%201_zpsxuxtikrt.jpg


Bonnet%20Latch%202_zpsgonvrkk5.jpg
 
Thanks for the pics Geo. Looks like I have to move the bonnet or the valance to get the clearance indicated in your picture. Is the valance movable? I should know how to do it but right now it's escaping me. Everything on the front is still loose at this point but if you have any thoughts I would appreciate it. Mine is the only TR3 A in my county, probably in this end of the state, so the BCF is and has been my salvation for info.

Thanks, Dick
 
Dick, how much gap do you have at the rear of the bonnet where the hinges are? There's usually a little slack in the mounting holes so you can adjust the bonnet fit to give yourself more room at the front.

Marv
 
I can't answer that as when I had the apron off I left the cross-bar in place and that (I think) is what locates the top of the apron. There is some bonnet movement but that is, of course, limited/dictated by the rear edge.

Also - I have no idea if that 1/4" gap across the front is typical or desirable. More data points needed perhaps.
 
Dick, here are a couple pic, HTH! I think they're original. Never noticed the tight quarters, there...


 
To move the apron fore/aft, you'll have to bend the mounting flange where it attaches to the cross bar. Probably not something you'd want to do unless the fender edges don't line up.

In Kevin's photo you can see how the paint is knocked off the rivet head. I'll bet there is a matching shiny area on the back of the apron.
 
Thanks to all of you for the help. Based on Kevin's pictures I have mounted mine bas ackwards, SIGH Hello Murphys law, heh

Again thanks for the help.
Dick
 
And yes Randall I did note the missing paint on the rivet head. Just not much extra space. No I really don't want to get carried away with bending and twisting of mounting points. When the car came back from the painter all sheet metal was mounted and aligned quite nicely so I know that it can be done. I just have to get my head on straight.

Dick
 
TR3driver said:
In Kevin's photo you can see how the paint is knocked off the rivet head. I'll bet there is a matching shiny area on the back of the apron.
Click to expand...

Yup! Until this post, never realized how tight the quarters are there, and I've pulled the apron once.
Next time I pull it, I'll try and see if I can get some more room there. One less of 19 other squeaks!
 
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