• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

bonnet plinths/raised hinges and a paint question

Share this page

O

ottawa3

Member
Offline
I have a late tr3a with the raised plinths for the boot and bonnet on the frame - my first question is, were the bonnet and boot covers also pressed with raised mounting points? I can't remember from my last 3a...

History on my car includes a period where parts were stripped off of it and the PO went about finding new ones - he found a bunch where at one point a seller told him he could have a great price if he took everything... anyway, the bonnet and boot I have are smooth at the mounting point.

Incidentally, does anyone know what the black coating from Moss is on replacement parts? Does it suffice as a decent primer? I am useing POR-15 on other exposed parts and want to ensure that I protect these (inner sill and dogleg) at least as well - looks it could be a powder coat, but I have little experience on this,

Thx,
Kerry
 
If the body has the raised plinths, the bonnet and boot lids need corresponding raised plinths.
 
Yep, need the raised plinth on the hood and trunk lid. You might advertise to see if anyone would be willing to trade. Someone might have an early car and found a later car with raised plinths to use parts from.

The black paint on replacement parts is very thin. Its a primer of sorts. I would put some more paint on. If its the inside, you could use the POR to keep you from buying more paint.

Marv
 
ottawa3 said:
Incidentally, does anyone know what the black coating from Moss is on replacement parts? Does it suffice as a decent primer? I am useing POR-15 on other exposed parts and want to ensure that I protect these (inner sill and dogleg) at least as well - looks it could be a powder coat, but I have little experience on this,

Thx,
Kerry
Click to expand...

The assembly line at Canley had very limited painting capabilities since nearly all cars were painted and completely trimmed at Mulliners. So, Triumph often used to dip parts that were always painted black. You may want to read my post regarding the hydraulic fluid reservoir. https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...uid_#Post699879 The "black coating" used by Moss is probably paint, but it depends on the type of part. Stanpart original body panels were usually supplied in black and I believe that Heritage has carried on that practice. I can't imagine any of these suppliers specifying powder coat on any part that would be repainted. It would be too expensive and some modern paint systems are incompatible with powdercoat. But before you invest a lot of time and money in painting, why not call and ask Moss or test the finish that's on those parts. Or, better yet, remove it all (soda blast) and prime properly.

Good luck!
 
angelfj said:
...Stanpart original body panels were usually supplied in black and I believe that Heritage has carried on that practice.....
Click to expand...
For whatever it's worth, most all older genuine Stanpart replacement body panels I've seen over the years were supplied in some sort of red oxide primer finish, and that was the case at least up to the mid-1980s or so, when I bought a complete Spitfire floor pan assembly through TRF.
 
martx-5 said:
If the body has the raised plinths, the bonnet and boot lids need corresponding raised plinths.
Click to expand...
Art is correct of course, but the earlier lids will actually work on the later body. Triumph cognoscenti will point and laugh; but I have seem people do it.

In fact, I recall seeing a "restored" TR3A sitting in the Moss showroom (at their previous location) with the wrong boot lid and a $25K price tag.
 
In Roger Williams "How To Restore Triumph TR2, TR3, & TR3A", there is a section that goes through the adding of the plinths wherever needed. Basically, a shaped piece of steel leaded into position and shaped/filed as needed. It is quite do-able.
 
Kerry - Art beat me to it ! I was also going to suggest making 4 "dummy" plinths to match the hinges and somehow weld or braze them on and finishing with a bead of solder or body putty all around to give you the later look.
 
That's a great idea (Art and Don) thx. I have a line on one set here in town and will try and make that work first - if cost is too high though, I will look at welding in a piece (after I practice up again on the floor). Plus, I already have two boot lids so i could always start there..

I am currently stalled a bit trying to figure our wiring to the garage though, I have 12-3 running from the house to garage (about 50 feet) ending in an old style sub-panel with two 20 amp screw in fuses...fine for lighting, but the compressor had a hard time the other day so I am reluctant to try the welder...

Anyway, slowly progressing - bent a new fuel line and about to start fitting the inner sill...

thx
 
Don Elliott said:
Kerry - Art beat me to it ! I was also going to suggest making 4 "dummy" plinths to match the hinges and somehow weld or braze them on and finishing with a bead of solder or body putty all around to give you the later look.
Click to expand...
Rather than making an irreversible modification to an otherwise perfectly good early bonnet or bootlid, what about just getting some aluminum stock and shaping a "plinth" / spacer to match the hinge? Seems to me that, at such a stress point, anything brazed, soldered or "bondoed" to the panel is eventually going to crack at the joint. Meanwhile, the aluminum could be either polished or painted to match the bonnet or bootlid and probably wouldn't be any more obvious than less than absolutely perfect brazing, soldering or "bondo-ing"! Plus, when someone comes along with an early tub and late bonnet/boot panels and wants to swap, you're all set! :laugh:
 
You could glue the plinth/spacer on with the glue folks are using to put floors in with and not have any distortion to work.
 
Andrew Mace said:
For whatever it's worth, most all older genuine Stanpart replacement body panels I've seen over the years were supplied in some sort of red oxide primer finish, and that was the case at least up to the mid-1980s or so, when I bought a complete Spitfire floor pan assembly through TRF.
Click to expand...

My experience is similar to yours Andy. I've got some NOS front Spitfire Mk3 front fenders which are in red oxide primer that I picked up back in the early 80's (and they were old then).

Scott
 
Back
Top