• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Bonnet measurements?

Share this page

P

paulsherman

Jedi Trainee
Offline
I am in the process of installing a Spridgetech Bugeye bonnet using a front tilt (with bumper) kit. Seems to be progressing OK, except that I am having difficulty gettintg the front (forward) end low enough. Seems to be about 1/2" high. I think I can solve that. But, in a perfect world, how big is the gap between the bonnet and the lower body, behind the wheel wells and along the top???
Thank you
 
Clarify: Are you talking about the gap along the windsheild cowl/outer sill ?
or the nose of Bonnet.

Gaps needs to be about the same as the door if possible.

Take a side photo if possible
 
I like the "if possible" part. I am talking about the measurement from the windshield cowl, along the post and at the lower rear of the bonnet. I seem to remember a number and think it is 1/4", but that seems quite large.
 
After you think you have it right take a direct side photo with the camera and then look at the car. Do the gaps look to wide, to small? If the gaps are off they will be apparent when you look at the photo on your computer

Also have you placed the stoppers/bumpers on top of the outer sills. this should aid in that gap.

as a side note, don't know if it help you, but my midget hood sat to low against my cowl, I took a washing machine rubber inlet hose and laid it in the water channel on cowl. now when I close my hood, the hood and cowl are level.

You can adjust this by the size rubber hose you use. I only laid the hose in there between the hinges, not the complete length.
 
I was told by the "spridgeteer" on the YAHOO site that the magic number for the gaps are 3/16". I am going out to beat, bend, shift and grind to see what I can do. Think I will make a few 3/16" spacers to aid this. Much more important then yard work
 
Paul. I've fought this with my BE Bonnet on my '68 for a few years now. My issue is front is too low, causing gaps too close at front behind wheels and alignment on the vertical seam back of bonnet is off. Not much maybe 1/4" but I need to raise the front of the bonnet up but no more adjustment left without remaking bonnet hinge bracket. I haven't tried the stopper on the fender but might need to add it. Try leaving the front unbolted, place bonnet so your horizontal and vertical gaps are correct and then see how it lines up in the rear.

I went with a rear Cowl Seal from McGregors as one;s from the usual suspects don't fit properly in the channel. Had an issue with curve at the back of the bonnet, mine was totally flat. Needed seal back there and side latches to put the curve back in hte bonnet.
 
Jim;
Remember, I am using a front tilt (with bumper) kit on a f'glass bonnet. I unbolted the bracket from the bonnet. Then ground off the brackets where alignment pins for a steel bonnet meet Sprigetech suggested this). Now I repositioned the bonnet and shimmed up (in my case) so I could achieve the 3/16" gaps on the sides and the rear. Tomorrow I will clamp the bonnet to the brackets, holding the bonnet in place, then re-drill the holes in the bonnet and re-bolt the bonnet to the brackets. If this alignment holds, I will address the rear of the bonnet where it meets the seal. Do you have any idea what seal you got from McGregor's? I am going to use JEGs 1/4 turn fasteners, low on the sides. Probably 2 on each side. Once I get the curve of the rear of the bonnet to match, I will hold the bonnet down with some bungee cords or a cargo strap and locate the fasteners. hopfully within the next few days.
I hope this is not to long and wordy, but this is my plan for now.
 
Jim;
A couple of things more I forgot to mention. I removed the (2) wheel arch bumpers, just because it is almost impossible to see if they are holding the bonnet up to far or if there is a gap between them and the bonnet. When everthing is the way I want it, I will shim these bumpers up or shave off some of the top so they will fit properly.
How will I determine this measurement you ask. I purchased some PLAYDOH at the toy store. I will roll up a golf ball size ball and place it on top of the bumpers, then lower the bonnet in place. Then raise the bonnet and determine the thickness of the PLAYDOH remaining on the bumper. I will then know how much to shim or grind off each bumper.
Simple trick for measuring any gap you do not have access to.
 
Paul,

Agree with the plan on getting rear of bonnet to align and then drill the mounting holes. McGregor sells the Rear Cowl Seal as it is known for BE's. McGregor is in CA. Look in the back of Classic Auto Sport classifieds for an address and phone #. They sell rubber and gaskets for LBC's that actually fit.

I used some draw latch brackets from McMaster Carr. SS and adjustable mount with 2 screws each and hold up to 400 lbs. load. You may want to think about using these until you get final positioning, curve in the bonnet, etc. You need a way to totally secure the rear of the bonnet, clamped properly in place, and then drill front mounting holes for the forward tilt brackets. Once all is aligned and set up then install the Dzus Type fasteners.

Like the Play-Doh trick, not sure if those rubber fender bumpers are really needed. I know my bonnet is too low in the front and a long term project is to redrill/somehow raise the front to get proper rear alignment. Not much a 1/4" in he front translates into a big movement at the rear. My issue is I've rounded out / elongated holes in front as much as I can really go. Solution is rear clamped down, front bolts removed and use a n adjustable jack or some other method to slowly and accurately raise the bonnet front so all is in alignment, then drill permanent holes. My bonnet works great, I just need to slightly tweak alignment issues to make it better. Unfortunately the alignment piece is a 2 person job and I haven't been able to convince the wife to help hold the bonnet up while I redrill holes. One of those will do it when I get "roundtoit" things.

I love the front tilt bonnet, so much easier to access everything and the look of the forward tilt bonnet really draws lots of questions at car shows. Keep at it and you'll get things fitting right.
 
Back
Top