TR2/3/3A Bonnet hinge issue/quality?

[GTP1960]

I noticed my hood was vibrating more than usual.
So on close inspection I found that two of the hinge studs were wallowed out of their holes ( bonnet side).
These hinges are fairly new & the chrome still looks good.

so I'm wondering on three things:

1). Is this a common problem with after market hinges (cheap pot metal cannot stand up to the strain)
2). Can this be fixed?....JB weld epoxy, or spot weld to reattach the stud, since the threads are gone.
3). Would it just be better to replace the hinges?



Appreciate your input.

 

[TR3driver]

Yes, quite common in my (former) experience. You could try installing a Helicoil type thread repair, but I don't believe your other ideas will work.

My recipe to prevent a re-occurrence:
When you get the new hinges, remove the studs. Grind the ends flat if necessary, so you have full threads within one thread of the end. (While you are at it, check the stud length. Many repros come with studs that are too long and will hit the body.) Then chase the holes with a bottoming tap so they also have full threads to the bottom. Clean both sides thoroughly with solvent, dry, then put a few drops of high strength Loctite on the studs and use double nuts to torque them lightly into the holes.

I haven't had one fail since I started doing this almost 30 years ago.

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Don't see why JB Weld won't work. A Helicoil is going to be a pain to put to install in that short hole w/o possible chrome damage.

Marv

 

[TR3driver]

In spite of their advertising hype, JB Weld isn't nearly as strong as even pot metal. Yes, you can cut threads in it, but the threads won't take any force to speak of. BTDT

 

[TFB]

Yes, quite common in my (former) experience. You could try installing a Helicoil type thread repair, but I don't believe your other ideas will work.

My recipe to prevent a re-occurrence:
When you get the new hinges, remove the studs. Grind the ends flat if necessary, so you have full threads within one thread of the end. (While you are at it, check the stud length. Many repros come with studs that are too long and will hit the body.) Then chase the holes with a bottoming tap so they also have full threads to the bottom. Clean both sides thoroughly with solvent, dry, then put a few drops of high strength Loctite on the studs and use double nuts to torque them lightly into the holes.

I haven't had one fail since I started doing this almost 30 years ago.

The replacement bonnet and boot hinges I got from TRF are a brass with stainless steel pins and really nice chrome.For the price of re-chroming it didn't make sense to mess with original pot metal ones.
Tom

 

[GTP1960]

The replacement bonnet and boot hinges I got from TRF are a brass with stainless steel pins and really nice chrome.For the price of re-chroming it didn't make sense to mess with original pot metal ones.
Tom

TRF has theirs on sale for about $36.00 ( hard to beat that price, especially if they are still chromed brass.)
so I'm just going to replace them.


Thanks for for the input!

 

[TR3driver]

Let us know how that works out. The ones I got from them in 2008 were pot metal. I find it hard to believe they switched to brass, especially with how expensive copper has gotten.

 

[TFB]

I probably got mine in 2011 or so,definately brass.I did follow your suggestions from an earlier post to tighten the studs and secure with Loctite.

Tom

 

[GTP1960]

Let us know how that works out. The ones I got from them in 2008 were pot metal. I find it hard to believe they switched to brass, especially with how expensive copper has gotten.

i can't say for sure if the new ones from TRF are brass or not.
they are completely chromed.
i did file down a 1/32" channel, on the underside, but only saw shiny silver metal.
the new ones seem to be better quality than the old
(tighter tolerances, less wobble, also the stud holes appear to be cut better)
the old ones are made of ferrous metal & are highly magnetic.
the new ones are not magnetic ( except for a slight pull from the hinge post)

old & new are about the same weight.

the design is slightly different, though the foot print is very close.
have not installed yet, but I did locktite the new studs in place.

ps: tried to attach a couple pics, but would not work for some reason.