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Bonnet Gaps

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CJD

CJD

Yoda
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OK, The next task is matching the bonnet. These side gaps are pretty large compared to the doors and boot. Here are pics of the initial fitting:

_DSC6130.jpg


_DSC6131.jpg


I figure the beads will take up some of this space...but can you guys give me some idea of what would be an optimum gap on the sides of the bonnet?

Thanks

John
 
I estimate that the gaps on my 59 would be about 1/4" w/o the beading (and the metal plate that it is mounted to) in place. Yours look a littel wider than that. A trial fit of the beading in that area might give you some idea of what the final fit will look like.
 
Great...1/4" it will be. After working on the doors for 2 weeks I was about to cry if I had to close these gaps to 1/8" or less.

Thanks!

John
 
If you adjust the fenders with out fitting the front end panel,may heaven help you latter! Stop worrying about a gap that has no real adjustment,it is better to work on the ones that do!!.Fit the apron and bonnet carefully, then let the fenders go where they have to go.the wing mouldings fill the gap latter. By the way I hope that that is NOT sand blasted steel I see in those pictures.....
MD(Mad dog)
 
Hey MD,

It's all adjustable...just some of it is a LOT easier to adjust than others. This is the first car I have restored that I can find no written info on panel clearance settings. The Jag's I've done have a whole volume...just on panel clearances. In the past I have spent a month on a single panel to get it right, but that's half the fun!?!

I hear ya about the fenders! The wing bolts are all finger tight at this point, waiting for the apron. And, yep, it's all blasted. The key there is fine abrasive and low air pressure.

John
 
Here is the first fit of the apron. I have to say, I am happy with the way the front of the car is coming together. I spent weeks on the rear half...but the front is fitting pretty decently the first time out. I needed the break!!

_DSC6145.jpg


The Bonnet gap on the sides is a little wider in the rear, but once I shape the thing, I think it will spread nicely to even out the gaps.

_DSC6151.jpg


I'm about to go out and start shaping the bonnet next. I'll then let it sit for a week or two so I have time to study it. It's funny how you notice things the more time you have to look it over. I'm sure I'll hit it a few more times with the hammer...!

Here is the only real DPO damage I had to straighten on the apron:

_DSC6136.jpg


This only took a few minutes to straighten out:

_DSC6138.jpg


To show you what I was talking about on the rear, here is what I had to deal with...This is what some body man did to the rear fender some 30 years ago:

_DSC5976.jpg


Yep, those are holes he drilled through the fender to hold the bondo! Very creative. I was going to replace the panel till I saw the price tag. Definite sticker shock! Here is how it came out after a week of work:

_DSC6078.jpg


The weld at the top is where the same body man air hammered a hole all the way through trying to free the stuck bolts. Not just creative...very classy! Anyway, it saved the panel...and at least a grand!

From here it's priming and painting...so I'll start a new thread when I shift gears.

Thanks again for the tips, guys!

John
 
It looks really nice John and I have been blasting that same way for many years. The front looks perfect, the bead will hang over and cover 3/16 and some wiggle room is nice because the hood does not open straight up because you undo one of the dzus fittings at a time. The wiggle room is good.
Steve
 
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