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bonnet adjustment

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tomshobby

tomshobby

Yoda
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The first time I re-installed my bonnet the grill and rad shroud were not there so it seemed natural to reach through the grill. The only thing was I did not take any pics.

The sequence I used was with the bonnet catch off, I adjusted the rubber stops first so the height and position was good.

Then with the bonnet on the stops I reached through the grill opening and attached the hinges. This way I could hold the bonnet in position while fitting the hinges.

Then I attached the catch and adjusted it.

When I was finishing my engine project I took a few pics and here are a couple. I am sure there are better ways but this worked for me.

https://smithtr6.com/images/forum_pics/eng_assem/bon_adj_01.jpg

https://smithtr6.com/images/forum_pics/eng_assem/bon_adj_02.jpg
 
Our garages all look the same. Tool cabinet, air compressor, etc. Is that an old Pennzoil Box on top of that shelf?
 
Note :
Sunny day outside, LBC owner inside working (trying not to look outside)
Hmmmm

Glad to see the photos though. My 4A does not rattle at all (all mount points tight) when the lid is open. Slight rattle when closed (=loose hinge point??)
Rainy day job methinks
 
All, when you install the lock after doing just what you did, get a strong wire and wire the lock open, this way you can get the sping and shaft lined up perfect. Line it up and push down to get the feeling of no resistance, it might take a time or two, but you will not stand a chance of getting the release hung up.

Wayne
 
How did you like those nice long bolts in the front bonnet hinges? More over engineering in a spot that doesn't need it. I guess that makes up for the weak points that do!

Great job, by the way! Where are all of those pictures that you've been promising?
 
The bonnet on my '76 is low on the right front, but the top bolt on the fender is as tight as you know what. I broke the bottom OK, but the top won't budge and I don't want to sheer of the head.

I am pretty sure the top bolt is not original as all the other hinge bolts are. It looks like a fender bolt (the top has a rim around it).

The paint looks original however and I do not want to heat it for fear of burning the paint. I tried Blaster and other solvents to no avail; any ideas?

Thanks -- Steve
 
Steve,

It may be rusted in from the headlamp side. You may be able to spray behind the bucket to soak it down, but you may have to remove the lamp to get at it. That will allow access to all of the threads to remove old undercoat and road dirt before you try to thread them out.
 
Brosky said:
Great job, by the way! Where are all of those pictures that you've been promising?
Click to expand...

Hi Paul, first I have to catch up on some things that were ignored when I was working on the car and spend some time with Shirley during her vacation. I am also working on a possible "exclusive license" for the product I developed. All of these first priority.

Then I will start working on the documentation of my TR6 project. Because of the amount of documentation I will post it on my own site and that also means a revamping of the site.

Sooooo, how did the decals turn out? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Sooooo, how did the decals turn out? [/QUOTE]

I'm ashamed to say they are now safely here on my desk. About three days I after I received them from you, I got a big order in from TRF. I bought the mail and invoices down to my desk. You guessed it! I accidentally filed the decals in with the invoices.

I nearly tore this place apart for three weeks trying to find them. Just by chance, I came across them when I was filing some new invoices yesterday. Luckily there they were!!!

That's one of the problems of never looking at what you've spent unless there is a problem!!

I hope to get that done in the next few days and I'll post the pics as soon as I'm done.
 
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