• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Body Mounting Strip Adhesive

Share this page

J

Joel M

Senior Member
Country flag
Offline
What's a good adhesive to use to attach the 6 body mounting strips (from TRF) to the frame? I just tried to glue them using 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, and let's just say it was an unmitigated disaster. The strips curled up on all the long edges and would not stay down. The manual says to use Bostick C (unavailable in the US?), but I thought the 3M adhesive would be a good alternative. It was not. Any ideas?

Joel
 
I used a small amount of the contact cement you can get at Lows or Home Depot. Comes in a can. I used Weather strip adhesive on the boot seal and it did not work too well. Went back to contact cement.

David
 
Contact cement...Wellwood in the jar because that's what I had laying around.
 
Thanks for the advice, all. I picked up some Weldwood contact cement from Lowe's this afternoon, and it worked great!
 
If you car has unknown history....Be aware that you may need varying thicknesses of mount strips to compensate for any body or chassis twist that may have occurred in the past.
Whilst on the ground with the chassis weighted...Check the door gaps especially before bolting the body down securely.
 
I'm actually getting ready to post a request for advice on the steps I need to follow for the required body work (inner and outer sill replacement). Regarding the strips, I just glued down what I believe was there previously and also shown in the manual. I may have jumped the gun, but the history of the car is fairly well know. My father purchased it brand new in 1960.
 
Thanks for the link David, I will reach out to them for availability and cost.

The floor pans do have some rust, but they seem sturdy. My plan was to blast them after they are removed for inner sill replacement, and then make a determination if they can be re-used. Although I'm not entirely sure if I can remove them without damaging beyond they point of re-use.
 
They can be a bit slow with their e mail responses. Price I got for the seat pan was good.

If the floor pans are not too bad you may be able to cut a piece from a new pan and save having to remove the complete thing.

I gather the best practice is to remove one floor pan or inner sill at a time to retain the body integrity.
Brace the door gaps to prevent movement. Can make it a PITB working around the braces but beats having to try to get the gaps correct again.
Rodger Williams book "How to restore a TR2, 3, 3A, 4 and 4A" goes into the body bracing.
David
 
Thanks David! I'm about to submit a post with pictures and a draft plan that lay out what I'm thinking. I hope you will read and give me your feedback. This is the first body restoration I have done, so I would appreciate your advice.
 
Back
Top