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BN2 leaf springs

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roscoe

roscoe

Jedi Knight
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After having my rear springs re-arched once, I decided to get a set of Jule springs. When I had the rear springs out before, I didn't really pay attention to the parts book, and did what I tell the aircraft mechanics I work with to never do. That is, put something together the way it came apart, without checking the parts book to make sure it was correct when you took it apart. This time I checked, and I questioned that I had a fairly thick (roughly 1/4 " ) tapered shim on top of the fiber packing piece, between the spring and the bottom of the axle housing. I can't see anything like this in the parts breakdown. Several diagrams I have only show the fiber piece. I can't imagine why the shim was there, it has the effect of lowering the body, which was the last thing I wanted. The shim was also tapered. I'm figuring that someone previous to me wanted to lower the body, but I can't figure out why a tapered piece was used, unless it was what they had, or they felt it fit the countour of the spring better. Any of you suspension gurus seen this before? The Jule springs gave me back 27.5" of ground to wheel arch apex.
 
Sounds like the PO tried to raise the body instead of lowering it. Originally there were metal shims between each leaf, I think made of magnesium of all things. Never heard of fiber being used. Anyway, 1/4 inch is way to thick for a shim. Another common trick was to jack the body up where you want it then weld the rear leafs together to hold the body up. Both my Healey's had this modification done. I removed them when I got my new springs.

Just curious, are the Jule springs just like the one's you get from MOSS?
 
The stuff originally between the springs was, I believe, zinc. You can use teflon which I know is carried by sailboat rigging shops--it comes in tape or sheet form and you cut it to size. There is a shop in Annapolis, MD not far from me that I can get the name of if need be.
 
The tapered shim was used with the spiral bevel axle. Both of my BN1s have it. If you have the proper BN2 rear axle (Hypoid) I you shouldn't have the tapered shim.

Marv J
 
Thanks Marv. I have the later BN2 rear end. To answer the other question, the Jule springs are stiffer, and have fewer leaves. They also use rubber bushings on the rear shackle pin, and the center pin that pins the leaves together in the middle has a half inch button on it so you need to open up the guide hole in the pspring mounting plate a little. I havent driven yet. I haven't seen the Moss springs, but I assume they are as original , at least in appearance. It was a pleasure dealing with Martin at Jule.
 
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