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OP
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Mike & Jack - you asked why I only ordered one. I ordered one for the clutch slave cylinder. Since the clutch system seems to be hard to bleed I wanted to try the Speed Bleeder on the clutch system.
I also think some of you are confusing the Speed Bleeder with the EZ Bleeder. The Speed Bleeder I purchased for $7.00 is a bleed screw with a check ball and spring. It does not connect through the cap of the master cylinder. Check out: https://www.speedbleeder.com/
I don't know if it will work well or not but for $7.00 I'll give it a try.
Also, why the negative comments on the 1500 Midgets? An LBC is an LBC and having fun in the old car hobby should be what it is all about. I may feel the same way you do about Bugeyes or TR4s or Chevy Corvettes but I would never say so in a forum dedicated to one type of car or to a person who ownes that type of car.
I also think some of you are confusing the Speed Bleeder with the EZ Bleeder. The Speed Bleeder I purchased for $7.00 is a bleed screw with a check ball and spring. It does not connect through the cap of the master cylinder. Check out: https://www.speedbleeder.com/
I don't know if it will work well or not but for $7.00 I'll give it a try.
Also, why the negative comments on the 1500 Midgets? An LBC is an LBC and having fun in the old car hobby should be what it is all about. I may feel the same way you do about Bugeyes or TR4s or Chevy Corvettes but I would never say so in a forum dedicated to one type of car or to a person who ownes that type of car.
zimmy
Jedi Knight
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dont take it too hard tony.....switch the motor and bumpers on ur 76 and these guys would drive it anytime /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
theyre just a little partial to their 1275s!
a bike tube, couple of clamps, and a bike pump will get the fluids moving on those brakes and clutches......z
theyre just a little partial to their 1275s!
a bike tube, couple of clamps, and a bike pump will get the fluids moving on those brakes and clutches......z
jlaird
Great Pumpkin
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https://www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca/technical/bleeder.html
Here is someone already selling clutch slave bleeders
Here is someone already selling clutch slave bleeders
bugimike
Yoda
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Tony, no aspersions cast on the 1500, Just that when you become familiar with one unit, the other is quite different, NOT better or worse!! I think some, (myself included) just wanted to trash on the EZ-Bleed unit a bit and this thread provided a mini-forum for that! Your logic for ordering the Speed-Bleed unit is spot-on /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif and I hope to read your comments soon so that I am better informed on it!
Thanks,
Thanks,
lesingepsycho
Jedi Warrior
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I put speed bleeders on my brakes all around and I have never been happier. I have them on the rear cylinders of my pickup truck but unfortunately they don't make them in the right size for the front. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cry.gif I love them and would put them on every car I own... but I never tried it on the slave cylinder. I have my own special procedure for that.
lesingepsycho
Jedi Warrior
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I figured! hehe. It's not that special but it certainly is the best way I have found and the only way that I have found that actually works.
The only way I have found to have the clutch work well and as new is to remove the two bolts holding it to the tranny so that it can hang freely. It's the only easy way to get to the bleeder nipple as far as I know. Then, if you look at the placement of the bleed nipple, you can see how a large pocket of air can just sit trapped in the slave cylinder. No matter how many times you pump the pedal from inside the car, the fluid is going to take the least resistant path right out the bleeder and that air bubble is going to stay there and you are going to have a squishy clutch. Afterall, that is a huge amount of air to try to comress in relation. The only way to get that air bubble out is to work the pushrod by hand. This also means you can do the whole job by yourself.
1. Open bleeder 2. Press in pushrod by hand expelling air from cylinder 3. Close bleeder 4. Release pushrod allowing piston to draw in clean, bubble free, non-compressing hydraulic fluid. 5. Repeat until confidant there are no air bubbles left.
VERY IMPORTANT - you can only do one or maybe two pumps in this fashion before topping the master back up. Since you are moving an amount of fluid approximately equal to the displacement of the slave cylinder, you'll drain the master before you know it and have to start all over again.
When you're done, the two bolts go back in and your clutch should be good as new. I've tried every other way known to man and this is the easiest and most assured way to get it right the first time.
JACK
The only way I have found to have the clutch work well and as new is to remove the two bolts holding it to the tranny so that it can hang freely. It's the only easy way to get to the bleeder nipple as far as I know. Then, if you look at the placement of the bleed nipple, you can see how a large pocket of air can just sit trapped in the slave cylinder. No matter how many times you pump the pedal from inside the car, the fluid is going to take the least resistant path right out the bleeder and that air bubble is going to stay there and you are going to have a squishy clutch. Afterall, that is a huge amount of air to try to comress in relation. The only way to get that air bubble out is to work the pushrod by hand. This also means you can do the whole job by yourself.
1. Open bleeder 2. Press in pushrod by hand expelling air from cylinder 3. Close bleeder 4. Release pushrod allowing piston to draw in clean, bubble free, non-compressing hydraulic fluid. 5. Repeat until confidant there are no air bubbles left.
VERY IMPORTANT - you can only do one or maybe two pumps in this fashion before topping the master back up. Since you are moving an amount of fluid approximately equal to the displacement of the slave cylinder, you'll drain the master before you know it and have to start all over again.
When you're done, the two bolts go back in and your clutch should be good as new. I've tried every other way known to man and this is the easiest and most assured way to get it right the first time.
JACK
Tony, I'm just not a big fan of anything with rubber bumpers, per se, and the 1500 isn't my favorite engine. I raced a 1500 Spit for quite awhile, and could have saved a lot of money running a 1275 Spridget.
But, I agree. A LBC is a LBC. So, whatever floats your boat is OK with me.
I certainly didn't mean to offend anyone, I just have my own preferences.
Jeff
But, I agree. A LBC is a LBC. So, whatever floats your boat is OK with me.
I certainly didn't mean to offend anyone, I just have my own preferences.
Jeff
John Kuzman
Jedi Trainee
Offline
I just sent a message to Doug at 18G Motorworks. I bought one of his clutch slave cylinder bleeder extensions (see link on Jack's earlier post) for my "other" Healey and it is truly a lifesaver! I asked Doug a few months ago whether he could develop the same type of device for the Spridgets. He was looking into the project, but I had not heard anyting more. I will let you know what I hear from Doug.