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Hey all Im working on bleeding the clutch hydraulics on my 70B. Im getting around 1/2"-3/4" of travel on the actuator rod from the slave cyl to the clutch fork. How much travel is required? The pedal is sold but when the car is started its still not disengaging the clutch enough to put it in gear. Any tips for working the rest of the air out of the system?
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T-Series bleeding clutch sys ?'s
- Thread starter gm9142l
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BirdofPrey
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just keep opening the bleeder valve and closing it like you would the brakes
Gary Lloyd
Jedi Knight
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All it needs is 1/2 inch of travel!! Be careful, but just get it going and run it around the block! It will probaly be fine, unless it was put together wrong!! GOOD LUCK man!!
Bob Claffie
Jedi Knight
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Last time I had to do clutch work I had a awful time bleeding the system. I ended up forcing fluid into the slave cylinder through the bleeder and letting the air bleed out the top through the clutch master. Bob
Gary Lloyd
Jedi Knight
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BINGO!!!! That works real good!! A five minute bleed if you start that way!!
I was just trying to do that same procedure with my mityvac, but I couldnt seem to get much fluid up into the system. Everytime I pressurized the fluid it would start to leak out around the threads of the bleeder valve. I only had the valve open 3/4-1 turn, is that just something you have to deal with when pressure bleeding? Ive never done anything that way before but its what everybody is suggesting so I figured its worth a try. Thanks a lot for the help so far.
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Greg,
Just remove the bleeder screw & put a couple of wraps of teflon tape around it.
D
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by gm9142l:
Everytime I pressurized the fluid it would start to leak out around the threads of the bleeder valve.<hr></blockquote>
Just remove the bleeder screw & put a couple of wraps of teflon tape around it.
D
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by gm9142l:
Everytime I pressurized the fluid it would start to leak out around the threads of the bleeder valve.<hr></blockquote>
Something to keep in mind: I have seen the slaves on B's with the bleeder under the inlet hose(on some other makes as well) Makes it impossible to get all the air out unless you do what you can by pumping the pedal and cracking the line, then pull the bolts out of the slave and let it hang down with the bleeder open and let gravity finish the job.
Another trick to use is to make sure you have bled it as good as possible, and if it still doesn't work, get under the car with a prybay and have someone push the pedal. Wedge the bar between the fork and the engine or tranny and help pull the lever back. Have them let up on the pedal, prying on the lever to keep the clutch engaged, and push the pedal down a couple more times. This will force more fluid down to the slave, giving it a little extra gulp of fluid. When you remove the bar and they let up on the pedal it should be good to go.
Another trick to use is to make sure you have bled it as good as possible, and if it still doesn't work, get under the car with a prybay and have someone push the pedal. Wedge the bar between the fork and the engine or tranny and help pull the lever back. Have them let up on the pedal, prying on the lever to keep the clutch engaged, and push the pedal down a couple more times. This will force more fluid down to the slave, giving it a little extra gulp of fluid. When you remove the bar and they let up on the pedal it should be good to go.
G
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has the car sat for a while? If so, the clutch disk may be frozen to the flywheel. I'm beginning to think I have this problem