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BJ8 Window and Ventilator Removal

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crya

crya

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Hi All,
I'm disassembling my drivers' side door to inspect and lube the remote door lock mechanism and the window crank.
I've got the main window figured out but my manual says to remove the 4 screws from the ventilator window assembly at the top of the door. I can only find 2. It appears the whole window assembly will come out once I can figure that out and that would be good because I need to access the 4th screw located behind the front window guide rail in order to detach the window crank assembly.
So, how the heck do I get this thing apart?
I've got a '64 that needs some TLC and $$.
 
There my be 6 screws to hold the vent window channel.

4 at the top, 2 at the bottom.

2 small screws on the outside vent top of the door.(sometimes these are missing)

2 larger screws on the inside, top of the door.

2 large screws on the bottom of the vent window channel.

Once the front window channel is removed, you can remove the 4 large Phillips screws that hold crank assembly.

There are adjustments that can made to the bottom window channel slot that hold the crank assembly long rod. Also you can adjust the stop bar behind the crank gear. Those two adjustments control how far up and down the window goes. Not adjusted correctly and the window will fall out of the track.

This would be a good time to replace all the white nylon guide rails.

Good luck.
Roger
 
I don't doubt there are these additional screws you speak of, but keep in mind I'm mechanically retarded and don't have a very good manual. I've detacked the two screws at the bottom of the rail and the two large screws at the top of the inside of the door. So, where exactly are these other screws located? Are they hidden away inside the frame of the vent window? That's my only other guess.
Also, what manual should I have? I think I only have a Hayes manual and I don't like it.
 
I'm considering replacing the weatherstripping at the top of the doors, and the rubber seal around the wing windows, so I've been thinking this over, I'll be following the thread. Here's a catalog diagram of the area...

https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28957

As far as manuals go, the Haynes one isn't very reliable, but it's funny to read!

The Moss catalog usually gets things shown pretty clearly, for the details, the collective knowledge of the BCF is the best I've run across. Between the two, you should be able to get things figured out pretty easily.

Just wait a bit and a few people will come along that know just what you're talking about and will be able to guide you along...all with a smile and a pleasant attitude. It's a great community. Welcome!
 
Hi Crya,
It’s been years since I took that apart, but I have a dim memory that there are screws under the chrome trim on the top outer door. Then again, I’m pretty sure that beer has drowned the brain cell that contained that information.
 
Ah crud, yet another question then. How do I get that piece of chrome off?? Friggin' Austin Healey. Good thing I'm single right now. Between the Healey and my dog, who's got time for women. Maybe when the Healey is done the women will come to me??
 
crya said:
Ah crud, yet another question then. How do I get that piece of chrome off??
..( lift it straight up at the very front edge closest to the
windshield frame )..
Friggin' Austin Healey. Good thing I'm single right now. Between the Healey and my dog, who's got time for women. Maybe when the Healey is done the women will come to me??
...( I would say it is a 100 % probability . The Healey is the closest thing to a " chick magnet " that I have seen in many years. If you put your dog in the passenger seat of your Healey, you will have to learn to be rude or you will never get to drive the car very much )...
Click to expand...

Ed
 
GregW said:
Hi Crya,
It’s been years since I took that apart, but I have a dim memory that there are screws under the chrome trim on the top outer door. Then again, I’m pretty sure that beer has drowned the brain cell that contained that information.
Click to expand...

Yes, that is where the two small screws are.

My bad Crya, I assumed you had the chrome finishing strip off.

You will also need to remove the felt window strip that is clipped to the top, inside to the door. The other rubber strip should be attached to the chrome finishing strip. With both of those out of the way, and the screws removed from the vent track, pull the unit up.

Hope this helps.
Ask all the questions you want. We'll all jump in to help.
We've all been where you are. How thankful I was and still am to have the wonderful people here to offer advise and answer our questions.

Good luck,
Roger
 
crya said:
Maybe when the Healey is done the women will come to me??
Click to expand...

Count on it... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif
 
Ahhhh, OK. I think we've got it now. Can't wait to get home and see if I can pull the chrome trim off.
 
SUCCESS! Thanks. I was able to remove the chrome piece without doing too much damage to the paint. Upon removal I discovered that door had a fair amount of rust and lots of flaky paint. Can anyone recommend a temporary product to clean the rust and seal the metal until I'm ready to do the body work in a few years?

The next question is about a mysterious rubber part that I removed from the very top of the vent window inside the main window track. It's rubber and was attached with a single screw. I'd like to replace it but I can't find the part with either VB or Moss. It's sort of a rubber end cap for the top of the window. Any ideas?

This will sure make the next door go faster.
 
Done and Done. Now if only these vendors had the dowels I need to reattach the window crank and door handle!
 
crya said:
...... Upon removal I discovered that door had a fair amount of rust and lots of flaky paint. Can anyone recommend a temporary product to clean the rust and seal the metal until I'm ready to do the body work in a few years?
Click to expand...

While you have the door apart -- try to remove as much of the loose rust as you can from the inside and then treat with waxoyl or penetrol. I use penetrol (available in the paint dept at the DYI store) -- it will help to prevent further rust until you do your bodywork in the future. You can apply the penetrol using a hand pump squirt bottle -- the penetrol will leak out for a few days after you spray it into the door cavity so plan some catch paper or drop cloth.

Dennis
 
Thanks for the tips on the Penetrol.
Forgive me again, as I'm no mechanic. I've got another question. It is now time for me to disassemble the frame holding the window glass. It appears there are two rivets connecting the two-piece frame. So, how does one normally remove rivets? I tried drilling through the rivet but that just popped out the back side and the rivet is still in place.

Thanks, and be kind to a novice.

Chris
 
Hey Chris,

The fun never ends, does it.
Try a bigger drill bit or a round file.

Seems like your really doing it right.
You should find packing pieces,(strips of rubber) in the insides of the channel. The window should be held in place by another strip of rubber that goes around the edge of the glass and squeezes tightly into the channel.

I did not want to chance breaking the glass, so I brought both my windows, still in the frames, to the local glass shop that can handle this type of project. You'd be surprised to find a lot of glass places don't know how or don't want to work on these.

Here's a tip. If you take the glass out of the frame, do some trial fits with the window rolled up. See how the top of the glass follows the curve of the convertible top. Use some duct tape to hold the glass in the frame. Place the window back in the door and see how the fit is. Does the position of the top of the glass in the frame let it make a good seal with the convertible top? If not, now would be the time to tweak how the glass sits in the frame channel.

Good luck,
Roger
 
Great, thanks. The bigger drill did the trick.
Interesting comment about glass positioning. After inspecting the piece of glass, I've decided to buy a new window. I'm guessing I'm going to buy from Moss since they are close and all shipments have been prompt. I have plenty more questions because as it rains more here in Napa, the deeper into the Healey I'm able to dig.
I'd like to replace the seal on the ventilator window but I wasn't sure if the seal is one piece or two. I was unable to remove the piece of glass from the frame because it appears I can't remove a large round spacer from the post which prevents it from pulling through the bottom of the frame.
Can the seal be replaced without removing the glass? I wouldn't want to order it only to have to return it.
 
in the moss catalog the window glass seal is shown as 2 pieces. The seal I received was one long piece per door. Should this be cut to only fit the side and bottom channel or does it also go around the notched piece on the lower 90 degree angle?

Robert
 
here is info regarding installing the window vent seal in the event anyone is going too need it.

Robert
Replacing Window Vent Seals

by Lynn Maney

This is pulled from the Healeys mailing list.
Thanks to those who replied to my problem(s) and their suggestions on replacing the window vent seal. I want to share what I learned to, perhaps, save others from similar problems down the road. To properly replace the seal, the vent window must be removed. To remove this window, a bushing on the bottom pivot rod - below the vent window frame - must be removed. Bushing removal was my problem.
First, recommend removing the frame from the door. Removal of the ancillary parts is significantly easier and the process is straight forward. The major problem I had was the two small, Phillips head screws that secure the vent window frame to the outside of the door. After 31 years, these screws were securely corroded in place and didn't want to release. A dremel tool would have been helpful to cut a slot in the head - after the Phillips slots rounded off. A hacksaw blade worked fine, but the heads snapped off anyway.
After the vent window frame is out, the self locking nut, spring, washers, and attachment plate can be removed to provide direct access. NOTE: The selflocking nut can be removed with the frame in the door, but a deep well socket and lots of care and patience are needed. Much easier on the second door when the frame was removed from the door. The bushing is probably corroded and pretty dirty. Wiping, penetrating fluid, etc. did not reveal the nature of the beast. CAUTION: Do Not attempt to heat the pivot post to facilitate removal. The bushing is a very soft alloy (Aluminimum??) and will melt/distort and probably destroy the bushing. It is not a barrel nut either, so do not try to forcibly unthread either the nut or the post.
The secret: The bushing is, I think, called a "broached bushing". The ID of the bushing is "slotted" and mates with corresponding "flats" on the shaft of the pivot post. Simply grasp the bushing with pliers, or a vice grip, and carefully pull the bushing downward while gently "rocking" the bushing from side to side.
The above procedure requires removal of the door panels, window, etc. If you are only interested in the vent window seal. The method suggested by # (Thanks!) should work fine. Slit the seal adjacent the hole for the pivot post and work the seal around the post. This would have been my fallback option.
 
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