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BJ8 Transmission
- Thread starter ev
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Randy Forbes
Yoda
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Transmissions frequently show up on E-bay, but no telling if it will be better than the one you have.
I've rebuilt dozens of Healey gearboxes and they're not that bad to do, I'm sure there must be someone nearer to you that has some experience with them.
I've rebuilt dozens of Healey gearboxes and they're not that bad to do, I'm sure there must be someone nearer to you that has some experience with them.
bighly
Jedi Knight
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Randy,
perhaps you could share your transmission knowledge. My 1960BT7 sideshift is difficult to get into 3rd and 4th (need to let the RPMS go down and "sneak" it into gear. 1st and 2nd no problem.
What parts should I expect to need for a proper overhaul? What would the suspected culprit be for my 3rd and 4th gear difficulty. I was thinking syncros. BTW are balking rings the same as syncros?
perhaps you could share your transmission knowledge. My 1960BT7 sideshift is difficult to get into 3rd and 4th (need to let the RPMS go down and "sneak" it into gear. 1st and 2nd no problem.
What parts should I expect to need for a proper overhaul? What would the suspected culprit be for my 3rd and 4th gear difficulty. I was thinking syncros. BTW are balking rings the same as syncros?
Randy Forbes
Yoda
Offline
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by bighly:
Randy,
perhaps you could share your transmission knowledge. My 1960BT7 sideshift is difficult to get into 3rd and 4th (need to let the RPMS go down and "sneak" it into gear. 1st and 2nd no problem.
What parts should I expect to need for a proper overhaul? What would the suspected culprit be for my 3rd and 4th gear difficulty. I was thinking syncros. BTW are balking rings the same as syncros?<hr></blockquote>
As a bare minimum, the parts for an overhaul or an "inspection" should include the following:
Gasket set
front seal; rear seal if leaking
layshaft bearings; layshaft if any visible wear
synchro (baulk) rings
1st motion to 3rd motion needle rollers
Naturally, replace any severely damaged gears or synchro hubs and inspect ALL other parts for excessive wear.
The overdrive is more of the same...
accumulator piston o-rings
actuator piston rings (rubber or steel)
thrust washers
inspect the cone-clutch linings for wear, glazing or delamination
The bearings are pretty robust, but they are getting old. Just adhere to workshop manual procedures for setting clearances after installation.
Careful and clean assembly and final adjustment of overdrive linkage once the unit is back in the car.
And I think that your diagnosis is correct about getting into 3rd & 4th gear.
[ 01-16-2004: Message edited by: Randy Forbes ]</p>
Randy,
perhaps you could share your transmission knowledge. My 1960BT7 sideshift is difficult to get into 3rd and 4th (need to let the RPMS go down and "sneak" it into gear. 1st and 2nd no problem.
What parts should I expect to need for a proper overhaul? What would the suspected culprit be for my 3rd and 4th gear difficulty. I was thinking syncros. BTW are balking rings the same as syncros?<hr></blockquote>
As a bare minimum, the parts for an overhaul or an "inspection" should include the following:
Gasket set
front seal; rear seal if leaking
layshaft bearings; layshaft if any visible wear
synchro (baulk) rings
1st motion to 3rd motion needle rollers
Naturally, replace any severely damaged gears or synchro hubs and inspect ALL other parts for excessive wear.
The overdrive is more of the same...
accumulator piston o-rings
actuator piston rings (rubber or steel)
thrust washers
inspect the cone-clutch linings for wear, glazing or delamination
The bearings are pretty robust, but they are getting old. Just adhere to workshop manual procedures for setting clearances after installation.
Careful and clean assembly and final adjustment of overdrive linkage once the unit is back in the car.
And I think that your diagnosis is correct about getting into 3rd & 4th gear.
[ 01-16-2004: Message edited by: Randy Forbes ]</p>
tahoe healey
Yoda
Offline
I have limited experience with trans/gear boxes only having rebuilt one for an XK140. However, I take the Zen approach. Think like a car. What could have gone wrong inside? Before jumping in, remove the drains (one large and one small) and check what is in the magnet/basket. If metal debris, tear it down. If not, refill with Redline or like slick oil and drive,drive, drive. You may lubricate your way out of an expessive repair for only $40.00. After 40 years you may just have gunk in the gear box. Especially you, Tracy, since our car came form the same "puppy mill". This worked on my BJ8 when I had trouble in third gear last summer.
Also make sure you closely inspect the new parts and check fit up. I rebuilt my transmission and installed new synchro rings. Now, I have a problem with chunking going into third gear if I rush it. Too late now to fix without a major effort. Either the new synchro ring was poorly milled or there was a problem I missed with the shifting fork.
Randy Forbes
Yoda
Offline
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Stretch:
Also make sure you closely inspect the new parts and check fit up. I rebuilt my transmission and installed new synchro rings. Now, I have a problem with chunking going into third gear if I rush it. Too late now to fix without a major effort. Either the new synchro ring was poorly milled or there was a problem I missed with the shifting fork.<hr></blockquote>
Good point!
One of the overhauls I did on my side-shift gearbox had a weak 3rd gear synchro.
Unfortunately, it decided to cause trouble while I was driving between Atlanta, Ga. & Spring Hill, Fl.
While criusing down I-75, I shifted a bit too quickly into fourth and the loose fitting 3rd gear synchro ring allowed the synchromesh hub to travel too far and let the detent balls/springs escape! One of the springs was caught in mid-flight and prevented the synchro hub from disengaging 4th gear.
I made the rest of the trip to Florida stuck in 4th gear. Ahh, for the torque of that straight six! I dialed back the timing so it wouldn't ping so bad while taking off from stoplights and essentially drove with both hands on the wheel.
Once at my brother's house in Florida, I tore into it. Thirty-five cents worth of springs and a tube of silicone sealant at the local Ace Hardware store and I was good to go for the return leg home to Louisiana.
Also make sure you closely inspect the new parts and check fit up. I rebuilt my transmission and installed new synchro rings. Now, I have a problem with chunking going into third gear if I rush it. Too late now to fix without a major effort. Either the new synchro ring was poorly milled or there was a problem I missed with the shifting fork.<hr></blockquote>
Good point!
One of the overhauls I did on my side-shift gearbox had a weak 3rd gear synchro.
Unfortunately, it decided to cause trouble while I was driving between Atlanta, Ga. & Spring Hill, Fl.
While criusing down I-75, I shifted a bit too quickly into fourth and the loose fitting 3rd gear synchro ring allowed the synchromesh hub to travel too far and let the detent balls/springs escape! One of the springs was caught in mid-flight and prevented the synchro hub from disengaging 4th gear.
I made the rest of the trip to Florida stuck in 4th gear. Ahh, for the torque of that straight six! I dialed back the timing so it wouldn't ping so bad while taking off from stoplights and essentially drove with both hands on the wheel.
Once at my brother's house in Florida, I tore into it. Thirty-five cents worth of springs and a tube of silicone sealant at the local Ace Hardware store and I was good to go for the return leg home to Louisiana.