• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

BJ8 Stop Light Switch

I have taken 4 pictures of my mechanical brake light switch installation and are available.
Go to photobucket.com and enter "pyoas", it's take you to "brake light switch photos"
 
I took a look at your switch installation seems like it is a relatively simple but functional installation also. While I was there I noticed the clevis pin in the brake clevis seems to be too long or is working its way out check it when you get a chance.--Keoke
 
Keoke said:
I took a look at your switch installation seems like it is a relatively simple but functional installation also. While I was there I noticed the clevis pin in the brake clevis seems to be too long or is working its way out check it when you get a chance.--Keoke
"Thanks eagle eye"!!
It's a little bit too long. It's aftermarket, but it holds up better than the original(groves take longer to wear into the clevis pin. If my memory serves me, I believe I picked up the metal piece at Home Depot in the department where they sell the "Simpson" products(they're the metal brackets used to tie together all the wood in houses).
Patrick
 
Ed,
Thanks for the help. I was out of town (in the Healey) for the weekend but plan to give this a shot this week.

Thanks again for the pics and help ... I'll let you know how I make out.
 
Success!!!

Thanks to all for the advice. I ended up making a bracket like the one Patrick67BJ8 used even though it hangs down lower than I'd like. The tough part is getting my old body under the dash ... gets harder each time!!

The important thing is that now the guy behind me can see when I'm braking!!!
 
Frank C. said:
Success!!!

Thanks to all for the advice. I ended up making a bracket like the one Patrick67BJ8 used even though it hangs down lower than I'd like. The tough part is getting my old body under the dash ... gets harder each time!!

The important thing is that now the guy behind me can see when I'm braking!!!
Glad you got it in. I find that this type is easier to fine tune the brake pedal adjustment to have the brakelight come on as soon as the brake pedal is "touched". I also used the double wire spade connectors and left everything pretty much hooked up to the original switch.
 
Actually, I did the same with the existing pressure switch. The new one is in parallel with the old one.

Thanks again to everyone for their help ... my wife and I feel much safer now!!
 
This is an old thread that I have a question about. I bought the Watson switch, it appears to have changed a little, the roller is now plastic. After several trys to adjust it, the lights don't come on till the pedal has traveled about an inch. It even says that is how it works in the instructions. I would rather they come on as soon as the pedal moves. Any suggestions?

I may try calling Watson in the morning. Sure seems like you want the brake lights on as soon as possible.

Jerry
BJ8
 
Jerry,
I had the same problem at first.
If you notice from the pictures that I posted, I had to get rid of the lower half of the stock arm and replaced it with a shorter , strong piece that I had so I could use the large round metal piece that I had laying around in my junk. It has been a couple of years but I think my switch also had a small plastic follower when new.
I got out my Ohm meter and then studied where in the arm travel the switch made contact and then opened back up. I couldn't visualize a way to make the switch work with a light touch of the brake pedal without using the shorter arm and the bigger diameter metal follower. ( without the arm hanging down way too far on the pedal arm. I didn't want to be able to accidently step on the arm with my foot and bend it out of adjustment ).
It has been a couple of years but I remember taking the switch off the stock bracket and moving it around, maybe swapped mounting holes on the factory bracket to make it work like you are trying to do.
That is why my home made mounting bracket is a little complex.
I would study the others way of mounting their switch. Between them all you can pick the approach that will work best. I didn't have anything to use as a reference. Just had to make it up as I went along....
I must have done it right as I have never had to touch or readjust that switch since I installed it a couple years ago. As soon as I touch the pedal the brake lights come on but they never turn on by themselves from vibration.
Ed
 
I looked at your pictures and mounted mine in a similar fashion. I guess the next question is the alteration of your arm and roller. Were you trying to get the switch more toward the back of the car, ie: under pressure more?

I realize that your project was quite a while ago, so if you don't remember, I will just keep playing with it.

Jerry
 
I was very concerned about mounting the switch as high up as I could without getting in the way of the brake pedal arm. I like the way Patrick mounted it to the back edge of the air plenum. If I was doing it over from scratch, I would try that approach if I could get it mounted high enough.
Basically, you have to adjust length and angle after you have the switch mounted. Mine was fairly high and I remember not liking the way the stock follower seemed to be jambed inward against the pedal arm.....
In technical terms.. You got to mess with it until it works smooth and makes and breaks at the right time.
It took me all day to make the mounting piece and then adjust/ modify it to make it work right.

:hammer:

Ed
 
dlamb43 said:
Hi Genii! Quick ? When replacing the Lucas spade stoplight switch..Would it be necessary to bleed the braking system afterwards? Hope not!!! Cheers, David

Nope but, you might prime the new swith wit a bit of brake fluid
prior to replacing it
 
Back
Top