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BJ8 stalling out to due electrical issues

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Be careful using those high discharge load testers, I was very fortunate to not lose my sight when load testing an MGF battery. Charging battery = hydrogen & oxygen, high rate discharge caused a spark at an internally fractured conductor and blammo.
 
Brinkerhoff said:
If a fully charged 12v battery does not indicate at least 12.6 volts at rest , the test is conclusive , the battery has failed . ...
Click to expand...

You're correct, of course. I should have been more clear; if a charged battery indicates 12.6V while not under load it can still be bad (or borderline). That's where a load tester comes in handy.

Part of the load-testing procedure is to fully charge the battery, then put a load on it for a few seconds to remove a 'flash charge' (I think that's what they called it) before running the actual test. A borderline battery can charge up and show good voltage for a short time, but the voltage will drop off more quickly under load than with a stronger battery.
 
In terms of battery voltage this is what's happening with mine. Yesterday, before reconnecting the charger to the battery the voltage was reading 12.08 volts. After leaving a charger on for a few hours, it shot up to 12.62 volts.

The next morning (today), I measured the voltage and has dropped down to 12.08 volts. As soon as I reconnected the charger, it shot up to 12.78 volts. I am leaving the charger on again for a few hours.

Again, my battery was purhased as new a few months ago. I hope the forum can advise me, given the data above, if the battery is now considered defective, good or not enough data supporting.

Today, it is my intention to hook up with another Healey owner and see and learn more about the cutoff switch setup. To be continued.

Paul
 
pkmh said:
...
Again, my battery was purhased as new a few months ago. I hope the forum can advise me, given the data above, if the battery is now considered defective, good or not enough data supporting.

...
Click to expand...


Where did you buy the battery? If it's a parts store or shop take it back; chances are they'll put it on a load tester to see if it's defective (they'll probably want to charge it first). If the shop/store is reputable they'll replace the battery. You may still be under the 'defects' warranty; if not, they should replace it pro-rated on how long you've had it.
 
Bob, I've had the battery for a few months, at most.

The following is going to be my first attempt to post a picture (or to post the link) here so I hope it works. It is a picture of my cutoff switch and labels as to what is happening at the present. I would like to reconfigure the bridge(?) cable from the frame (as presently shown connected) to one of the posts found next to my existing white wire w/ black tracer (the one immediately left to my white wire connection--is that the correct post?). I have learned from one other photo how the negative cable that runs from the battery is to the other post. If anybody else is able to clearly demonstrate the physical connections in this area, would be most appreciated.

Hope the following link works...


https://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp253/paulsebay/austinhealeycutoff3.jpg
 
Now, don't everybody laugh at once but... Could it be a loose fuse? Or not having read the whole post, a faulty battery?

Just had to chime in.

You can all go back to what you were doing now.
 
I've never seen that before, the long strap that connects the two posts on the cut-off switch. What kind of material is that? Metal or some sort of insulation? If it is metal and it is touching the terminal with the white/blk wire, that might be what is stalling you engine. Regardless, I would remove it.

pkmh said:
I would like to reconfigure the bridge(?) cable from the frame (as presently shown connected) to one of the posts found next to my existing white wire w/ black tracer (the one immediately left to my white wire connection--is that the correct post?).
Click to expand...

After removing that strap, I would use an ohm meter on the switch to see if it actually works before putting it back in service.
 
Greg,

That strip is the fiber insulating strip between the two posts, it is supposed to be there, but missing on many cars.

Also testing with an ohm meter will only give an indication of the switch health since the meter only passes a small amount of current though the switch. The best way to test the switch without specialized test equipment is to put a voltmeter across the switch and crank the engine without starting it. You should see very little or no voltage across the switch. If you do, the switch needs to be serviced.

Duane
'58 BN6
 
The strap you are referring to is really a cardboard-like insulator that separates the 2 main posts and should not be removed.

Good luck,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Duane and Ray are right when they said it is insulation. Or at least to say it is not metallic.

I just came from another Healey owner who has had his car since 1974. Amazingly, he even has "tags" still attached to the cutoff switch, apparently from the factory(?). I will post pictures of his setup soon and compare.

What I am concerned with and please feel free to add any comments as well, given my existing configuration as shown, why do you suppose the previous owner wnet and bypassed the cutoff? Am I in trouble when I properly connect everything back there? I mean, is there something else that may fry? Even not, maybe I am better off to disconnect the tachometer, although I am not certain if it will even work (it hasn't as of yet).

Because of the above and because the ignition light remains dimly lit, maybe I should first disconnect some of the wires to the tach to first see if the ignition light goes off (and if so, what does this really tell me?).

Any thoughts?

Sorry if I am displaying ignorance on this subject matter. I do feel like a total imbecile with understanding electrical know how.

Paul
 
As observed from your picture, the white/black wire seems connected properly. Since this wire travels from the switch to the coil (and then to the distributor), a break along the way may be intermittently connecting to ground as a result of vibration. I would suggest you disconnect this wire at the coil to test this theory.

As far as the cutoff switch is concerned, this switch, as most of the Healey’s electrical components, can be disassembled, cleaned, lubricated with dielectric grease, and reassembled as good as new. Since your car runs without the switch in place, it appears your switch’s internal connections may be faulty and your switch may need to be cleaned and lubricated or replace if the contacts are beyond cleaning. Corrosion is a common problem.

I would also suggest you do a number of Voltage Drop tests to validate all your major connections are in proper condition. Voltage drop tests will show the condition of your wiring and connectors by indicating how much power you are loosing when passing from one point to another. I recommend running a set of these tests to establish a baseline before making changes. If you need it, there are a number of Voltage Drop DIYs on the web for you to choose from.

Good luck,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Probably nothing but try disconnecting the white/black wire completely. If the switch is turned "on", you are grounding the switch via the white wire which goes to the coil. If you are not using the switch disconnect all wires. The switch should not but could be grounded via the mounting to the frame.
I like my switch. I would check the switch out and if usable use it,if not it can be rebuilt (see Tech Talk by Norman Nock) or replaced.
 
As far as the cutoff switch is concerned, this switch, as most of the Healey’s electrical components, can be disassembled, cleaned, lubricated with dielectric grease,


:savewave:

Because " dielectric grease " is suppose to be an electrical insulator I would not use it anywhere in a switch.-Keoke
 
Well the picture confirms my suspicion the switch is completely disconnected from the circuit except for the B/W wire .

So going back to my earlier comment.

Disconnect the B/w wire and tape the end.

Now the wire that comes off the negative side of the battery and connects to the chassis.

Remove the end connected to the chassis and connect it to the empty post on the switch

NOW:
[1.Turn switch off car will not start or turn over.

[2 Turn switch on car will turn over and should run.

If these two last events happen correctly Swich is OK--Keoke
 
Keoke is correct in stating that dielectric grease is nonconductive, however, this grease flows at far lower PSI than any electrical connection made in the Healey and will not hamper any electrical connection. Dielectric grease will seal all components from moisture and will eliminate the formation of corrosion. I have used it in all my bullet connections and switches, after cleaning, for over 2 decades without any corrosion or contact problems.

As a further example of the benefit of dielectric grease, a friend was having constant problems keeping a bow light operating on his ocean going sport fishing boat. I suggested he coat the bulb, socket, and connections with dielectric grease and the light has been operating with no problems for the past 10 years. Yes, the light did burn out in that period but the replacement was also coated before installation.

Also, by just disconnecting the white/black wire from the coil and taping, you have eliminated any grounding potential from the switch to the distributor.

Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Thanks for all the recent and sound advice.

I cleaned up all my contact points of the cutoff switch and then connected as suggested above by taping the white (ignition) wire and connecting the negative cable of the battery to a post found immediately adjacent.

After turning the switch off, the engine did not start and turning the switch on allow me to start the car.

So the switch apparently works!

From this point, I am presenting the following link showing a mockup of what I believe is one acceptable way of completing the wiring to my cutoff (shown as unrefurbished), but not sure and therefore, I am asking for confirmation. I have seem a few different variations and am most interested in the one configuration that left the factory. I believe what I am demonstrating in sketch form is that example.

https://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp253/paulsebay/cutoffmockup1.jpg

Once I complete this, I will then want to see if my ignition light remains lit which will confirm the cutoff was previously responsible or if I still have other issues (and may very well be since the tach does not work yet).

Thanks again all!

Paul
 
Yep picture looks RIGHT!!---Keoke-- :thumbsup:
 
Thanks Keoke for that. At the present moment, without knowing if the ignition light will go out when I start her up, I did notice how my gas gauge needle now moves, although it does read between empty and about 1/8 full, which is not true. But I know the needle never moved before working on the cutoff switch. Hopefully that means something positive.
 
A side note about the gas gauge. Never let it get below 1/8th. You can suck crud into the fuel pump and that will be a whole new string of posts.
 
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