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pkmh
Jedi Warrior
Offline
My 1967 BJ8 Austin Healey is stalling out, but this time it is definitely electrically related. Since I have a little better understanding of causes and effects, I am presenting it here with hopes of better insight and solutions.
History of events:
Ever since I had a new battery installed a couple of months ago, I have been driving the Healey for approximately a total of 10 to 15 hours so far. Never experienced any problems whatsoever.
But, a few nights ago, I was driving until night came and so I drove with my headlights on. Everything was fine until there was a brief moment of no power and no lights but suddenly everything resumed as if nothing happened. Then, a few moments later, it did it again but the car did not revert back to having any power. The car completely died and would not crank over. The cause seemed simple enough which was the result of the positive cable having separated for the battery terminal. I was able to reconnect and luckily jump start and make it back home but ultimately lost all candlepower to my headlights and stalled out in the driveway.
The next morning, I charged up the battery, which by the way, is only a few months old. Then I purchased a voltmeter and tested a few things:
A. Before attempting to start the car up, the recharged battery was registering 12.0 volts.
B. Then during the idling phase the battery still registered 12 volts, and after putting the headlights on for a moment and then turning the lights off, the battery voltage dropped to about 11.93 volts.
C. Again during idle, I tested the generator. I was getting a no reading of voltage. But after “spiking” the positive lead from the generator, and at a revving idle, it was putting out .5 volts. Never went higher than that (never did before, for that matter).
D. Then I tested to see if there were any breaks in the wires to the generator and to the battery (ohms). None indicated.
E. No tests were done as of yet to the voltage regulator. Because there are several wires leading from it, I am not familiar with what or how to proceed.
F. All fuses (2 total), were okay or nothing blown.
G. Later, I let the engine idle with headlights and high beams on as well as the directional signals working for about a half hour. Car remained idling and no dimming of the headlights. I figured everything was working as it was before.
I went out today thinking everything was back to the way it was. Then I broke down again after the car started bucking in first and second gear and then would not restart after the engine was off. This time, it was NOT the result of a severed battery cable. AAA came by and boosted the car and the battery read 8 volts. He was kind enough to checked the generator during idle for me and noted how it was not putting out a charge. But he was confused as to why the car did not quit after idling for about 10-15 minutes. And then I was able to get it back home (25 minutes later) without further incident.
Other possible points of concern:
1. The tachometer, currently not working, has not yet been rewired due to the positive to negative conversion of the battery (before I purchased it).
2. The cutoff switch seems to have only one wire connected to it (a predominately white wire or white with a dark stripe). I understand there are two wires connected to it and if so, what is the color code of the second wire?
3. My ignition light has always remained dimly lit from day one. Never goes out during idle or acceleration.
In terms of what does work electrically, my headlights work including the high beams, all signals work (although flashes to quickly--flasher problem?), brake lights work, wipers work, horn works. Don’t know about the heater blower, yet.
Again, tach and cutoff switch do not work or as of yet. Interior panel lights, if I have any, do not work.
Is it a clear cut issue of the generator malfunctioning? Maybe the Voltage Regulator as well? Maybe when the cable was separating from the battery terminal that night could it have caused damage to the generator, etc.?
I remember one fellow mentioning how the tach and/or the cutoff switch could be the underlying cause of stalling out. I am bringing this up for that reason, too.
Has anyone else went through this as I have and what further steps should one take to try to fix this? As a thought, I was thinking of having my generator brought in for further testing. Should this be the very first step?
Thanks so much for any input offered.
Paul
1967 BJ8
History of events:
Ever since I had a new battery installed a couple of months ago, I have been driving the Healey for approximately a total of 10 to 15 hours so far. Never experienced any problems whatsoever.
But, a few nights ago, I was driving until night came and so I drove with my headlights on. Everything was fine until there was a brief moment of no power and no lights but suddenly everything resumed as if nothing happened. Then, a few moments later, it did it again but the car did not revert back to having any power. The car completely died and would not crank over. The cause seemed simple enough which was the result of the positive cable having separated for the battery terminal. I was able to reconnect and luckily jump start and make it back home but ultimately lost all candlepower to my headlights and stalled out in the driveway.
The next morning, I charged up the battery, which by the way, is only a few months old. Then I purchased a voltmeter and tested a few things:
A. Before attempting to start the car up, the recharged battery was registering 12.0 volts.
B. Then during the idling phase the battery still registered 12 volts, and after putting the headlights on for a moment and then turning the lights off, the battery voltage dropped to about 11.93 volts.
C. Again during idle, I tested the generator. I was getting a no reading of voltage. But after “spiking” the positive lead from the generator, and at a revving idle, it was putting out .5 volts. Never went higher than that (never did before, for that matter).
D. Then I tested to see if there were any breaks in the wires to the generator and to the battery (ohms). None indicated.
E. No tests were done as of yet to the voltage regulator. Because there are several wires leading from it, I am not familiar with what or how to proceed.
F. All fuses (2 total), were okay or nothing blown.
G. Later, I let the engine idle with headlights and high beams on as well as the directional signals working for about a half hour. Car remained idling and no dimming of the headlights. I figured everything was working as it was before.
I went out today thinking everything was back to the way it was. Then I broke down again after the car started bucking in first and second gear and then would not restart after the engine was off. This time, it was NOT the result of a severed battery cable. AAA came by and boosted the car and the battery read 8 volts. He was kind enough to checked the generator during idle for me and noted how it was not putting out a charge. But he was confused as to why the car did not quit after idling for about 10-15 minutes. And then I was able to get it back home (25 minutes later) without further incident.
Other possible points of concern:
1. The tachometer, currently not working, has not yet been rewired due to the positive to negative conversion of the battery (before I purchased it).
2. The cutoff switch seems to have only one wire connected to it (a predominately white wire or white with a dark stripe). I understand there are two wires connected to it and if so, what is the color code of the second wire?
3. My ignition light has always remained dimly lit from day one. Never goes out during idle or acceleration.
In terms of what does work electrically, my headlights work including the high beams, all signals work (although flashes to quickly--flasher problem?), brake lights work, wipers work, horn works. Don’t know about the heater blower, yet.
Again, tach and cutoff switch do not work or as of yet. Interior panel lights, if I have any, do not work.
Is it a clear cut issue of the generator malfunctioning? Maybe the Voltage Regulator as well? Maybe when the cable was separating from the battery terminal that night could it have caused damage to the generator, etc.?
I remember one fellow mentioning how the tach and/or the cutoff switch could be the underlying cause of stalling out. I am bringing this up for that reason, too.
Has anyone else went through this as I have and what further steps should one take to try to fix this? As a thought, I was thinking of having my generator brought in for further testing. Should this be the very first step?
Thanks so much for any input offered.
Paul
1967 BJ8
