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BJ8 Repaint Advice Sought

HealeyRick

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One of our local Healey club members has recently passed away leaving his widow with a BJ8 she would like to sell. It's a very solid car that will make a good driver and a number of us will get together to bring it up to specs so she will get the most for it possible. Although the paint is solid, it is faded and the car would bring much more, we feel, with a new paint job. It presently has a single stage paint on it, not bc/cc. Didn't test whether it is enamel or lacquer. We want to do the easiest and least expensive paint job on it that won't let the car down. We would like to do a scuff and shoot if possible, but are concerned about trying to mask the stainless beads between the fenders. We want to do a nice job that will make this an enjoyable driver for the next owner without spending time and effort stripping the car down and bringing it back to bare metal. We'd like to do the sanding and prep work and bring it to a pro to shoot.

What would be the best way to get the car ready for paint? Is it possible to remove the fender beads without completely removing the fenders, such as loosening the fender hardware, bending back the tabs and removing the beads? In responding, please bear in mind we all have our own projects to work on and are taking this on to help a friend, but don't want to turn this into a full restoration project.
 

Keoke

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Everything u are contemplating can be done , but it will involve many hours of labor and I do not know what the quality will be.
Perhaps it might be better to get bids from a shop and all chip in a few bucks to get it done.--JMOP---???
 

Editor_Reid

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Is it absolutely beyond a cut-and-polish? Even if still far from perfect, it would still be original paint, and some visible patina is actually desirable to many.

Or has it already been re-painted at some point? If so, perhaps best to leave it for the new owner to paint to his/her standard and color?
 

BigGreen

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I agree with Reid, try to sand and (machine) polish the original paint.
 

Redlacquer

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I also wouldn't paint. Clean and shine everything to the best extent possible.

A quick paint job would not add value to me and many others. There's a negative value to suspicion about what's underneath.

Let the buyer see it as it is and decide what to do.
 
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HealeyRick

HealeyRick

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Thank you for all the advice, gentlemen. This car is in its original colors but has been repainted once. The car has been partially sanded by the owner. We're basically trying to "flip" it so someone will see it as a nice, ready to go, driver. it's not going to be sold as a project for someone to think about putting a $10k paint job. Someone will see it, hopefully on BaT, and think "Nice looking Healey for not a lot of money" Try finding one of those these days. Our guys will invest sweat equity, not dollars from our pockets. The car "needs" paint, otherwise it won't get a second look. The goal is to make it nice, safe and attractive and not spend excessively like we all tend to do on our own cars.
 

nevets

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I would show it to one or more paint shops to get advice and estimates, preferable a shop that has experience with Healeys.
 
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I've given some thought to this (but haven't tried it). Get some good, strong masking tape--3M products are generally good--and there's one called 'Frog Tape' (not 3M) that is good. Lay tape along the length of fender bead(s), then tuck the tape down between the bead and fender/shroud with a plastic scraper or similar tool (a bondo spreader might work well). Push the tape down the bead as far as it will go, then cut it off (along its edges) with a razor blade. This way, you can a) protect the bead while sanding and b) if the paint is thin enough and it's a warm day the paint should flow over the edge of the fenders/shroud. Carefully remove the tape while the paint is still wet so it can continue to flow over the edges of the shroud and fenders. Should make for a good 10-footer.

Edit: You could apply the tape after sanding as well.
 
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I've given some thought to this (but haven't tried it). Get some good, strong masking tape--3M products are generally good--and there's one called 'Frog Tape' (not 3M) that is good. Lay tape along the length of fender bead(s), then tuck the tape down between the bead and fender/shroud with a plastic scraper or similar tool (a bondo spreader might work well). Push the tape down the bead as far as it will go, then cut it off (along its edges) with a razor blade. This way, you can a) protect the bead while sanding and b) if the paint is thin enough and it's a warm day the paint should flow over the edge of the fenders/shroud. Carefully remove the tape while the paint is still wet so it can continue to flow over the edges of the shroud and fenders. Should make for a good 10-footer.

Edit: You could apply the tape after sanding as well.
Edit2 (must be a time limit on editing): Get a thinner masking tape--say, half-inch--and you should be able to tuck the tape over the bead without trimming.
 

red57

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bead, two thin tapes about 3/4" wide, one on each side and stuck together at top.
Bingo! Painted my 100-6 twice that way over the years. Second time around I actually taped twice, once for the sanding and, because sanding damaged the tape, a second application before painting (up side is plenty of practice before painting :smile:). Used plastic spatulas/spreaders to make sure the tape was well stuck down on the sides.

Remove tape as soon as paint is tack-free - the more the paint cures, the harder the tape removal becomes. Definitely doable and a lot easier than removing fenders IMHO. Buy a good quality tape.

Dave
 

Healey Nut

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That’s the way my painter does it . The inside of the fenders get painted and the joining edges painted and some overspray allowed to go on the outside top edge . Fenders get installed with beading which when new has a black plastic coating on . This is removed and then masking tape applied ready for paint .
 

Bitchun Bob

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Taping the bead on fenders from each side and joining in the middle is a good way of solving that problem. All that's needed is a good eye and a steady hand. Get some 1/4 in. masking tape. If the paint is only faded and on the car solid, you should be able to sand it with 600 grit. Touch up any chips, feather in any thin spots and then shoot with clear. At 20 MPH it will look good; at 60, a show car.
 

BigGreen

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If it has two layers of paint allready, I would sand it flat with 1500 / 2000 /3000 and machine-polish in several steps.
Cheap and easy.
 
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