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BJ8 Rear Wheel Cylinder leaking
- Thread starter AUSMHLY
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Bob_Spidell
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Been a while since I've done this, but IIRC I used a hammer and drift to tap it out from the edges.
Bob_Spidell
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Yes (one is called a 'plate' and one a 'spring' in the Moss catalog). They overlap, and interlock with a couple tabs (again, IIRC). Tap one out--presumably, the top one--then the other in the other direction.
Edit: The morning fog is clearing: The 'spring'--I think it's on top--has a couple 'hooks' (just a couple bends) on one end to entrap the 'plate' (unless I have this bass-ackwards). It'll be evident once you have a look (getting them off is the easy part).
Edit: The morning fog is clearing: The 'spring'--I think it's on top--has a couple 'hooks' (just a couple bends) on one end to entrap the 'plate' (unless I have this bass-ackwards). It'll be evident once you have a look (getting them off is the easy part).
OP
AUSMHLY
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Yup, thought that. This is the first time for me. Gut feeling, the plate is bowed to keep pressure? I tried to get a screwdriver in there and tap it. Thank goodness there's so much room to do that. The cylinder kept sliding, brake fluid on my hands, screwdriver, hammer, plate, floor, everything was slippery, it's dark, even with the flashlight, keep banging my head in the wheel well. All good times!
Randy Forbes
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OP
AUSMHLY
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Don't you love replying to your own post, lol.
Reason I could not tell how the clips hold the cylinder in place is because when it's covered in dirt/grime you can't tell there are 2 tabs on the lower "spring" plate that hold the top "plate" in place.
Those 2 small tabs on the lower spring plate need to be pushed down to let the top plate slide forward.
Now it makes sense why the tapping on the edge of the top plate didn't move it.
Here's a break down how the clip system works.
Last edited:
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Good photos.
OP
AUSMHLY
Yoda
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Kudos to John Turney for helping me with my brake system. What I thought was going to be replacing one leaking rear cylinder, turned into a complete system overhaul. John drove to my house...twice... and helped me replace both rear cylinders and brake shoes. We replaced the front disc seals, master brake cylinder, master clutch cylinder and slave. We replaced all rubber hoses with stainless steel. Bleed the system with Castro Dot 4. This was my first attempt at working on brakes. I started this project on June 17 and finished on August 1st. John I appreciate all your help, knowledge and time. It was a pleasure meeting you. Thank you John!
D
Deleted member 8987
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Standard shop procedure is always do everything the same on one axle (or end of vehicle). Replace or rebuild one caliper or cylinder, do the same to the other. They have exactly the same fluid to them and number of stroke cycles. Period.
Shoes and pads...well, let's think about this. There are different compositions...if for some reason you have very few miles and yours are old enough to still contain asbestos....those had better coefficient of friction than modern.
One PRC manufacturer may have a different modern compositions than another manufacturer...same with US.
In all the years I did this, we found on 4-wheel drum braked US cars, newer compositions would_not_stop the vehicle, even with two boots on the pedal without power assist (think early Mustangs and early Ford V8's). BTDT. Had a local reliner who had A-B lining, stopped just like old asbestos linings. Then there were Mountain Brakes that worked VERY well, but wore out twice as fast.
Do both sides, and yes, you cannot get oils and fluid out of the porous lining material. Even using Lacquer thinner and sandpaper.....and hours of work...and you end up changing them anyway.
Then there are off-gassing issues....and we found riveted linings had far less issue than bonded linings. Gasses had some place to go, or so it was explained to me decades ago. Racing drum brakes we'd drill a number of holes through the lining and shoe to allow off-gassing to escape.
Shoes and pads...well, let's think about this. There are different compositions...if for some reason you have very few miles and yours are old enough to still contain asbestos....those had better coefficient of friction than modern.
One PRC manufacturer may have a different modern compositions than another manufacturer...same with US.
In all the years I did this, we found on 4-wheel drum braked US cars, newer compositions would_not_stop the vehicle, even with two boots on the pedal without power assist (think early Mustangs and early Ford V8's). BTDT. Had a local reliner who had A-B lining, stopped just like old asbestos linings. Then there were Mountain Brakes that worked VERY well, but wore out twice as fast.
Do both sides, and yes, you cannot get oils and fluid out of the porous lining material. Even using Lacquer thinner and sandpaper.....and hours of work...and you end up changing them anyway.
Then there are off-gassing issues....and we found riveted linings had far less issue than bonded linings. Gasses had some place to go, or so it was explained to me decades ago. Racing drum brakes we'd drill a number of holes through the lining and shoe to allow off-gassing to escape.