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BJ8 Rear Drum removal

ABH_V8

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I need to remove the rear drums from my BJ8 to replace one of the slave cylinders and am having problems. I just cannot undo the 5 nuts that hold the hub extensions on. They probably haven't been off in years. I have soaked them in WD40 and an 11/16 socket seems to fit. However when I try to undo them the socket is rounding the nut. Is 11/16 the correct socket? and if so how on earth do you get them undone? I can feel my socket extension bending! If I can't undo the nuts is it feasible to use a nut splitter on them or are they too strong for that. I have only used nut splitters as a last resort and on much smaller nuts. Any help or tips would be very gratefully received. Thanks in advance.
Andy
 
You could use a micrometer to measure the nuts to ensure you are using the correct socket. You should use 6 point sockets. I hope you are trying to turn the nuts counter clockwise. Have you tried to use a torch to heat the nuts?
 
Almost all of mine rounded off... Resorted to a cold chisel and hammer. The nuts are available new, even with the correct interlaced circles on one flat.

Using an impact socket that has had the front edge ground off so the hex comes all the way to the front helps as you can get a bite at the last bit of unrounded nut.

Recoil Regrip is pretty good at getting hold of rounded fasteners, it is basically sandpaper grit in oil that you put on the socket to increase friction.

It seems that most of the nut part is submerged inside the countersink and only the very top protrudes to get the socket on. Perhaps this is why some ppl have issues with them coming loose?

Andy.
 
WD40 doesn't work too well as a rust penetrant. In the US, PB Blaster and Kroil are generally top performers, but some shops like Wurth products (green cap) which should be easier to find in France. Also, a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone usually outperforms a lot of the mass produced products. After treating the nuts for a few days, I'd apply heat from a MAPP gas torch, heating the nuts to cherry red. Be careful that the flame doesn't light off any of the remaining penetrant. If the nuts are too badly rounded off, you can use a special socket like these to grasp the remains: https://cgi.ebay.fr/Craftsman-Bolt-Out-Da...=item25660315ad
 
Thanks to all for taking the time to reply. All very usefull tips. I will try them out first thing tomorrow. It is 40°c ( that's 104F !)here today and just a bit hot for using a blowtorch.

Rick - I am within 2 weeks (hopefully) of finishing my Nasty Boy BJ8. Ford 302 street race spec with T5 and all sorts of tweaks. It is however indistinguishable from the original except for the twin exhausts of course.

As soon as I get her finished I'll post some pics.

Andy (the only Nasty Boy in France)
 
ABH_V8 said:
Rick - I am within 2 weeks (hopefully) of finishing my Nasty Boy BJ8. Ford 302 street race spec with T5 and all sorts of tweaks. It is however indistinguishable from the original except for the twin exhausts of course.

As soon as I get her finished I'll post some pics.

Andy (the only Nasty Boy in France)

Andy,

Looking forward to seeing your "Mauvais Garcon" Sounds like we have similar driveline set-ups. Good luck.
 
No No No, dont try using a chisel or beating on them! Go to napa autopart and buy a grip socket set, ask for the one closest to a 11/16 or the one a little bigger, These sockets are made to take off stripped nuts, And they work great! They dig right in to the stripped nut and you will able to turn that stripped nut off with your 3/8 drive rachet with no problem. Thats how i removed mine.... I will get back to you with the brand name and socket size to use.
 
This grip socket is made by Irwin and sold at your napa autopart store. Use the 11/16 grip socket. I used the Irwin grip socket on my stripped hub nuts and they worked great!
 
Many- many thanks Drambuie. I have managed to locate and order a set of Irwin grip sockets and it is being sent to me from the UK. Everything here in France is Metric and even in the UK tricky to find. Fingers crossed.
Andy
 
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