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BJ8 Overheating

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Hi Ed I have 3 HD8 SU, I am not sure where I got the air intake box from. It fits in under the wing just in front of the air intake. It is 3 inches deep, a plain back, a plain front with the 3 holes drilled in it, it relies on air finding its way into all the S/S mesh holes all around the outer edge, the interior of the box is filled with foam. It works fine. Hope this is of some help.
I was told it could be from an XJ or XK but not confirmed?
Brian
 
I have a couple of questions related to this topic. I am planning to improve my car's cooling this winter.

1.. Moss only offers a 160 degree sleeved thermostat. What is the rating of the sleeved ones sold by B.C.S. in CA ? I am concerned about leaving a 160 degree thermostat in all of the time if I improve overall engine/ engine compartment cooling efficiency.

2.. Is anyone using the fan shroud sold by B.C.S on their BJ8? Where does it attach to the car ? How do you like it ?

3.. I already have a stainless fan from B.C.S installed on my BJ8. If I also install one of their fan shrouds, would it
then be " overkill " to also install the missing air dams
in front of the radiator ?

4.. Assuming I can improve the heat transfer from the engine through the radiator into the air under the bonnet, what is the best way to get rid of the excess hot air that builds up
under the bonnet and will only get worse if I improve the efficiency of the radiator/fan ? Are top or side vents the answer or will installing the missing air dam in front of the radiator help this ? I am concerned that if I install the missing air dams in front of the radiator that it could possibly make the hot air collecting under the bonnet worse than it is now ?

Ed /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/computer.gif
 
Hi Ed,
Interesting questions. I seriously doubt if the engine will be running on the 160 thermostat except in very cold conditions. Lot of folks including myself have added an extra row of tubes, more efficient radiator design, along with good fans, ducts, & everything else. In 90 to 110 ambient temperatures, the engine still runs at 190+ a lot.

I believe that the real problem is getting the hot air out of the engine compartment. The fender side rally vents seem to help quite a bit. There just isn't anyplace for the air to go after it passes through the radiator.

As an experiment, I ran the BN2 on hot days with the hood "bonnet" removed. There was a noticeable drop in engine temp. I'm now in the process of changing the BN2 hood to the louvered type. Will see how well it works.

I realize louvers or rally vents probably aren't a solution for your car. So the only option is to get more cooling with the same insufficient air flow. More efficient radiators, fans, & ducting will make maximum use of an existing situation.
D
 
specialsports said:
OK Thanks for info. Do I just bring the car up to temp or run for 10 miles with this fluid in, before I drain and refill? I am going to check the thermostat, I now think I could have a problem with my original distributor, I am convinced this is my problem, ref vacuum, A/R, springs etc. So I am now thinking of fitting a Mallory dist, have you had any feedback ref: this item or similar?
Brian
Click to expand...


Well ole matey certainly the Malory and the 123 are alternate choices. However, Holden has the correct Lucas distributor completely rebuilt for about 125 GBP. Seriously reducing the running temperature of the BJ8 engine requires the use of a larger radiator,Four row serpentine core, an efficient flex fan and the sleeved thermostat. The original fans do not move air worth sod. Similarly, while the SP250 has enjoyed some success with the Kenlow fan it is not effective on the big healey engine.--- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif--Keoke
 
Thanks Dave.
My BJ8 runs 190 - 200 on 95 to 105 degree days depending on how hard I am running it. Since I installed the BCS fan, it has never climbed above 210 while sitting at a stoplight. It never boiled over that I know of but I do have an overflow/recovery tank similar to yours....
I am trying to figure out the most cost effective way to knock down the overall running and under hood temp.
After reading your post, I need to start thinking about either a louvered hood or side vents.
.. How does the BCS fan shroud attach to the car ? It isn't clear when looking at their parts fyler.
Ed
 
Ed_K said:
.. How does the BCS fan shroud attach to the car ? It isn't clear when looking at their parts flyer.
Ed
Click to expand...
Hi Ed,
I paid something like $10 for their "fully dimensioned design plans" for a shroud on my BN2. Looked it over, a two piece "thing" that looked like a nightmare to install & impossible to get to the fan belt. I don't really remember what it attached to. Something like the spare tabs on the radiator surround, I believe. Decided I really didn't need such a crude thing on the car. It's not really so easy to build something considering the limited space & the fact that the fan is not centered on the radiator. Maybe the later cars would be easier?
D
 
Ed_K said:
I have a couple of questions related to this topic. I am planning to improve my car's cooling this winter.

1.. Moss only offers a 160 degree sleeved thermostat. What is the rating of the sleeved ones sold by B.C.S. in CA ? I am concerned about leaving a 160 degree thermostat in all of the time if I improve overall engine/ engine compartment cooling efficiency.

2.. Is anyone using the fan shroud sold by B.C.S on their BJ8? Where does it attach to the car ? How do you like it ?

3.. I already have a stainless fan from B.C.S installed on my BJ8. If I also install one of their fan shrouds, would it
then be " overkill " to also install the missing air dams
in front of the radiator ?

4.. Assuming I can improve the heat transfer from the engine through the radiator into the air under the bonnet, what is the best way to get rid of the excess hot air that builds up
under the bonnet and will only get worse if I improve the efficiency of the radiator/fan ? Are top or side vents the answer or will installing the missing air dam in front of the radiator help this ? I am concerned that if I install the missing air dams in front of the radiator that it could possibly make the hot air collecting under the bonnet worse than it is now ?
Ed /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/computer.gif
Click to expand...
1...I run a 180 degree thermostat of the correct sleeved type from BCS. It's important to have your car running at operating temperature that won't cause premature wear by the engine running too cool.

3...The "missing air dams" help direct the air through the radiator. Don't leave home without them! I took pictures of a couple of cars that went to the Conclave in Texas a few years ago and the owners had made some very interesting air intakes for their cars because they ran so hot with the AirConditioning on. I have AC and mine doesn't run hot, but I did have my radiator core replcaed with one that has more cooling capacity. I once knew a guy in Jax Florida that was so determined to get rid of the "heat" that he had a 4 inch thick core radiator made. It still heated up. You have to do more than just replace a radiator.

4...If you direct more air through the radiator it will have to go someplace and that place will be out through the underside of the car. One thing that I might add is that some car owners have added extra insulation to the <u>underside </u>of their transmission tunnels. This is not a good idea and it's important to have plenty of clear space for the hot air to exit and not be restricted.
Patrick
 
Hi Patrick, Insulating the bottom of the transmission tunnel does not significantly reduce air flow in this area when done properly. To some extent it should decrease the pressure drop in that area simply because it provides a thin smooth surface. OTOH I /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif so not leave home without the air panels in place,.---Fwiw--Keoke
 
My fan is also significantly off center in reference to the radiator which made the mounting of the BCS shroud more puzzling to me.
It looks like I need to consider doing everything mentioned, air dams, shroud, side vents or louvered hood, upgraded radiator core.
I suppose I could do one at a time but I want to fix it this winter and drive it cooler next summer not experiment one piece at a time next summer. Life is too short and I may want to drive across the country to the left coast conclave next summer or something crazy like that !
 
Yes Patrick,

I know it is not good to keep running the engine if it never gets hot enough to evaporate all of the moisture out of the engine. If BCS's sleeved thermostats are 180 degrees, I'll get one from them.
I have the bottom of the tunnel covered in thin thermotec insulation. I think it helps a lot to keep the heat out and I don't think it blocks the airflow out of the engine compartment to a significant extent.
Air dams and a lower air scoop are now on my list for this winter, along with a BCS radiator shroud, sleeved 180 degree thermostat, an uprated radiator core transplant. Lets not forget either side vents or louvers in the hood.....
And I thought I was done spending money on this car ?
Dummy me !
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wall.gif
 
Yep Dave, /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif that shroud is down right ugly, too heavy and not very effective. The only shroud I have seen that works a treat is one modified from an early land Rover it really helped pull the engine temps down. The Rally Vents work very well but they are ugly too! Hood louvers seem to work well also most AC cars use them. I just wonder what happens if you get caught in a heavy rain?---Keoke
 
Dave ,
I guess I can't read anymore. Thought you had said it was ugly but I didn't catch that you did not do it the first time I read your post. Keoke's post made me go back and read it again so I am happy now to skip the fan shroud.
I still have a nice list to complete without the shroud. Is there anyone that cuts louvers in your existing hood ? Tryin to save a few bucks if I can.
Ed
 
Ed_K said:
Is there anyone that cuts louvers in your existing hood Ed.
Click to expand...
Keoke,
I guess as long as the car is moving, the rain will pretty much pass over. Just like the windshield. If you are going to park in the rain, I don't know. Not hard to cover the engine if you are going to soak things with a hose.

Ed,
There is an add that runs in the AHCUSA magazine.
"Louver your BN1 or BN2 Bonnet to exact 100M/LeMans specifications. Paul Schwartz (925) 254-5001 or lucashly@comcast.net "

I don't know if he would do other models or not. You could give him a call. Lots of rod shops used to punch louvers also. You might check around with the street rod guys.

I just sprung for a new 100M aluminum bonnet, already louvered. It's in the paint shop now. I'm skipping the obligatory leather strap, at least for now. Pic attached.
D
 

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I've often wondered if it's worthwhile to rig up a couple of those round pre-start ventilation fans used on inboard outboard boat engines which, coupled with some ventilation hose you could draw hot air from the top of the engine compartment and then vent it out underneath the front fender. I know the louvers are very helpful here, but I don't really like the way they look on the 6 cyls because of the bonnet scoop.
 
Ed_K said:
Dave ,
I guess I can't read anymore. Thought you had said it was ugly but I didn't catch that you did not do it the first time I read your post. Keoke's post made me go back and read it again so I am happy now to skip the fan shroud.
I still have a nice list to complete without the shroud. Is there anyone that cuts louvers in your existing hood ? Tryin to save a few bucks if I can.
Ed
Click to expand...

Hi ED, I think you should skip the 180 Degree thermostat too and do the radiator and a 160 Degree Stat upgrade now so you can evaluate its performance while hot weather is still around. Making and adding a working shroud would be a good winter project along with making the lower scoop. However, I have not had to resort to these latter items to cool the beast.---Fwiw--Keoke
 
Keoke said:
Hi Patrick, Insulating the bottom of the transmission tunnel does not significantly reduce air flow in this area when done properly. To some extent it should decrease the pressure drop in that area simply because it provides a thin smooth surface. OTOH I /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif so not leave home without the air panels in place,.---Fwiw--Keoke
Click to expand...
I agree with your comment "when done properly". I have seen 3/4"plus insualtion sprayed on the underside of the trans tunnel. The tunnel underside of the tunnel does need a good airflow. BYW, number six pistons seems to fail more than any other piston. Possibly airflow in this are.
Patrick
 
Keoke said:
Yep Dave, /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif that shroud is down right ugly, too heavy and not very effective. The only shroud I have seen that works a treat is one modified from an early land Rover it really helped pull the engine temps down. The Rally Vents work very well but they are ugly too! Hood louvers seem to work well also most AC cars use them. I just wonder what happens if you get caught in a heavy rain?---Keoke
Click to expand...
Rain///!!! You drive your Healey in rain?? Carry a spray can of WD-40 to get rid of the water around the distributor when the engine dies of "water flooding".
 
I have checked the temp gauge all is OK. I think the main problem is being a highly tuned engine it gets very hot within the engine bay and no way to get this heat out. The Kenlow does help a little. Still waiting for new 123 dizzy, new thermostat and I am going to try this Water Wetter! I will give the cooling system a good flush out before above. Once I get this fitted I will let you know if a success or not.
Brian
 
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