BJ8 Front suspension screwed bush housing / threaded bush housing re-assembly gap

[Intrisk]

My first post.
The service manual (page L4) says that if the service tool 18 G 56 is unavailable, then bolt the lower spring plate into firmly position. Then screw bushes home evenly, etc. After backing off half a flat, there should be a 0.002 inch gap between the inner shoulder of the bush and the outer face of the wishbone arm on each side.

When I loosen off, the gap appears between the inner shoulder of the wishbone arm and the swivel pin lower trunnion. Also, although the wishbones move smoothly, they a very slightly stiff. This may be due to the new screwed bushes.

Any advice on the gap problem gratefully received.

Thanks

Intrisk

PS - I have got some great advice already reading other posts - excellent forum - THANKS!

 

[Randy Forbes]

In lieu of a feeler gauge, or other such apparatus, I like to set the lower/outer pivot points before the sping is fitted (I do however temporarily fit the spring pan). With the benefit of full suspension bounce and droop, you can set the threaded ends very accurately. Take note of the inward/outward rotation of the threaded caps and you can set them very close to zero excess play at full bounce/full droop.

For example, when doing the LH side (as viewed from the LH seat) at full bounce, the forward most threaded cap is "screwed in" as the A-arms drop to full droop to the point of making light contact. At full bounce, it will be the rearmost threaded cap that will be screwed in, and can be set to make light contact.

!! Do take into account the additional travel as the bump rubber(s) compress !!

Snug up the cotters that hold the threaded caps secure to the lower A-arms, and get on with the rest os the assembly.

Final tightening of the inner/lower pivots and the upper/outer pivot should be done with a 2" spacer in place, if you can't do it with the full weight of the car on the wheels, as seen below.