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BJ8 Cylinder Head Gasket

Bob
The copper "paint" is super sticky, and keeps the gasket from moving during assembly. It keeps the cylinder sealing ring aligned. In addition, it aids the seals for the water and oil passages.
 
I stand corrected (my laptop's on a standup desk). Ordinary copper paint could be lubricating; see: various anti-seize products.


Some of these copper anti-seize products, one of which is Copaslip, are listed as hazardous products in California.
 
Hazardous maybe, but AFAIK you can still buy it in or get shipped to CA. I can't remember the last time I bought something that didn't have a Prop65 warning on it; when every stinkin' thing has a warning on it people tend to ignore them.
 
At the time the manuals were written the copper/asbestos head gaskets (that I have seen) appeared to be coated with a varnish-like substance... apparently some kind of sealer? Do the current manufacture gaskets have any discernable coating on them?

Danny
 
The Payen head gasket I gave to my builder was probably 20 or mores year old. I don't recall any varnish-type coating, but it might have had some sort of anti-corrosion treatment; pure copper, of course, tends to corrode greenish in the elements (copper oxide, I presume). I'd opened the saran like wrap on the gasket set years earlier to steal a gasket, so mine had at least some exposure, but no green.
 
Bob, the ones I am referring to were mostly new old stock C series VRS sets acquired in the early eighties and packaged as BMC, Leyland and even Nuffield. I still have a few of 'em!

Danny
 
Those probably had asbestos, the later ones--including Payen--probably used whatever the replacement substance was (which likely didn't work as well). The auto manufacturers could have outsourced their gaskets.
 
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The gaskets felt sticky, whether that was age (of the gasket) or not I don't know. I felt inclined to wash one off once but was told it was meant for sealing hence the manuals saying to not use any sealer.

Are there any composite gaskets available for the six cylinder? I thought there used to be but can't see any on the AH Spares site for example.

Danny
 
I installed the head with a new quality head gasket from AH Spares. I then found that the new standard head bolts and nuts were of poor quality. With 2 bolts the thread gave up and overwinded before I applied the necessary torque. Will now order the improved heavy-duty bolts and nuts and put the head back on.
Now my question to the specialists. Should i use a new quality gasket, or is the head gasket that is included in the Payen gasket kit good enough? I haven't used them yet.

Thanks
 
HI :

I have used Payen gaskets in the past with no problems.

However:

If you did not torque the existing gasket U might get by with just using new bolts ??
 
Payen gaskets are very good. Used them on many applications.
If you can get ARP bolts or Nuts they are IMHO the best out there
 
At the time the manuals were written the copper/asbestos head gaskets (that I have seen) appeared to be coated with a varnish-like substance... apparently some kind of sealer? Do the current manufacture gaskets have any discernable coating on them? Danny
The BJ8 head gasket I received from AHSpares, part ENG602P, stamped AD890, seems to have a varnish-like substance.

AHSpares Description:
Gasket - cylinder head - High Quality UK made
These high quality head gaskets are made in the UK to exact original specifications from original tooling exclusively for A.H. Spares Ltd.
The materials used are of a very high specification so these gaskets are far superior to any aftermarket gasket currently available.


The gasket seems to be 3 layers. Top copper, middle? bottom some sort of steel? Something clear has been sprayed over the entire gasket. It's not sticky. It appears to have a very slight orange peel texture and what appears to be dust in that coating.

I've read that in preparation of installing a head gasket, both surfaces, engine and cylinder head should be absolutely flat, clean, no residue. Should I be concerned with the surface of the gasket I received? It appears to have dust in the clear coating. (see photos).

I've also noticed that there are places on the edges of the gasket that are separated. Is that normal?

B54142CB-F683-4439-835D-53C00A054FEA_1_201_a.jpeg

7097ED84-6502-48D5-9D54-21C9569CD7A6_1_201_a.jpeg
8AA22AD0-0CCA-4492-8517-C16A58E1E2EA_1_201_a.jpeg
58BF8125-83C4-4709-AE4A-5E129906B054_1_201_a.jpeg
 
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High Austin Healey friends,

The manual says that the head gasket is to be installed dry, i.e. without sealants such as Hylomar.
With my Triumph TR3a, however, it was stated that the head gasket should be installed with Hylomar or something similar.
What is better now? Are there any experiences? My triumph has been tight for 10 years.

Thanks Gerd
I'm getting ready to install my head gasket. See my prior post.
Thoughts on install dry or with a sealant?
Hylomar, there are different versions.
Copper spray for head gaskets, different companies offer them.
Wellseal is used for the 100.

I will be using new ARP studs, washers and nuts, torqued to 75 fl/lbs in the order specified in the manual.
 
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Thank you Dougie, HP. I used that on the exhaust gasket. Do you use anything on the exhaust gasket?

Prior post and included photos. Should I be concerned with the new head gasket I received?
1. Why does it have that clear coating on all sides?
2. What is the clear coating made of?
3. Is that dust in the coating and should I be concerned?
 

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