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BJ8 Camshaft Removal

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67BJ8

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Bad news! I rebuilt my Healey engine and it was running really nice - until Saturday-. I was about a block from my house when it started going bang bang bang. I found out that one of my rocker arms was not working. It turns out that the tappet is only going up and down about 1/8" for that rocker arm. The push rod is OK. I tried to lift the tappet out, but it won't come out. The cam is reground and the tappets are new. Any thoughts on what happened? I can push the tappet down into the hole much ****her than the others. Looks like I have to get into the engine. Can the camshaft be removed with out pulling the engine? If I have to pull the engine is it easier to pull the tranny with it or leave it in?
Thanks,

Larry
 
Larry,

I'm sorry that you had a problem. It does happen occasionally. Quoted below is my note in this topic about cam break in.
https://www.britishcarforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=5&t=000037
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"The contact pressure between cam & lifters is very high. Especially before the high spots on cam & lifters are bedded in. You need to lube the cam & lifters with a lube that can withstand very high contact pressures. Molybdenum disulfide (moly) is the lube of choice. Many of the "better" cam manufacturers/grinders supply a tube of moly with instructions to USE it. & how to break in the cam.

The second item is cam break in. No prolonged low speed cranking/idling for the first 20 to 30 minutes. On the first start, rev the engine to 2000 rpm or so & keep it there for the 20 minutes. This gives the much needed extra splash lubrication to the cam & lifters during the first critical minutes of cam life. Most cams are ruined by improper lube/break in in the first few minutes of running.

Needless to say, the static timing, fuel mixture, oil & coolant leaks must be dealt with before the first start.

Some folks may disagree, & depending on the cam & lifter metallurgy may get away with lesser measures, but why take a chance."
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Also mentioned in the thread is that the faces of the lifters should be checked for a minimum hardness of RC 50. Maybe your cam & lifter supplier can advise you further.

I can't advise on the best way to remove the cam.
D
 
Larry,

I can only restate Dave's advice on the cam initial run-in. I have built several motors and done exactly what he says to great success. It almost sounds abusive to the motor to crank it up and rev it for 20 minutes, but it is essential.

The first time I say this done was a the Porsche factory in Germany thrity years ago. The tour showed us all the assembly phases, incuding the motor assyembly and installation. Then at the end of the line, when the cars are all assembled, a guy gets in and fires up the motor. Like fires it WAY up! It thought they were going to blow up these brand new babies. But that's they way it's done!

Interestingly, back in those days you used to be able to take the tour and watch your car assembled, then YOU get in and drive it off the assembly line!
 
I had a similar experience with an MGB. Bottom of the tappet mushroomed, and couldn't get it out. If your cam is still good, there is a way to remove the tappet without disassembling the engine. If the Healey engine has tappet covers remove the cover where the bad tappet is. Back off set screw on rocker, all the way. Push rocker up, until it opens the valve all of the way. Slide out push rod. Push rocker sideways out of the way. Go to the hardware store and get the longest drill bit you can find. Approx. 3/16 or so. Drill a hole in the center of the tappet, then tap it out with a suitable tap. You will have to get a suitable drill bit extension for this. After tapped out, screw the tap back in while it is being held in the drill bit extension.Get a slide hammer, and slide hammer it out. Worked for me!!! My cam was still good. Just a junk tappet.
 
I would certainly inspect ALL cam lobes & the bottoms of ALL tappets before putting things back together. There may be only one bad tappet but if there are other cam & tappet problems you will soon be doing the same procedure all over again. Be sure to have a machine shop check all lifters for the correct hardness.
D

[ 10-15-2003: Message edited by: Dave Russell ]</p>
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by BOXoROCKS:
I had a similar experience with an MGB. Bottom of the tappet mushroomed, and couldn't get it out. If your cam is still good, there is a way to remove the tappet without disassembling the engine. If the Healey engine has tappet covers remove the cover where the bad tappet is. Back off set screw on rocker, all the way. Push rocker up, until it opens the valve all of the way. Slide out push rod. Push rocker sideways out of the way. Go to the hardware store and get the longest drill bit you can find. Approx. 3/16 or so. Drill a hole in the center of the tappet, then tap it out with a suitable tap. You will have to get a suitable drill bit extension for this. After tapped out, screw the tap back in while it is being held in the drill bit extension.Get a slide hammer, and slide hammer it out. Worked for me!!! My cam was still good. Just a junk tappet.<hr></blockquote>

A couple of questions.

Did the MGB have pedestal or bucket type lifters?
All Big Healeys were fitted with pedestal as oem

How did you control the metal chips from the drilling and tapping process, let alone the ones from the lifter breaking down?
 
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