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BJ7 Side Windows

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Since I am planning on doing a little traveling this summer in the Healey, I am endeavoring to refine a few details which could be better. After considerable time spent adjusting the window frames and the convertible top I do not have to my satisfaction a good mating of the top rear corner of the window glass to the convertible top. The glass is just a tesch too proud. The door and glass close fine, but the proud edge of the glass usually will catch the flap of the converitible which is suppose to sit on the outside of the glass. Since the glass is a little proud it pulls the flap to the inside of the glass. There fore, during hard rains, it is easy for it to rain in, instead of out. If only the glass was a 1/16th or an 1/8 inch less. So I have determined to "CUT THE GLASS". So what do ya think, can it be done. I only need to shave to an 1/8th of an inch at max.
 
Isn't there a stop in the door/regulator to prevent the glass from coming up too far? Even if you had to fashion one, that'd have to be easier than cutting/trimming a piece of tempered glass...

We are talking about roll-up windows, yes?
 
Yes it is tempered glass and that is the biggest problem. the other problem is that it is on the Wife's side. Closing the door with the window part way down sometimes will solve the problem. But did you ever have a partnership with someone that just won't get it. Not can't get, but 'won't get it'. I give up. :smile: Just cut the glass. The only other solution is that I become the obedient, dutiful hubby and always remember to be at her door to assist her in her entry to the chariot. thereby closing it gently and facilitating the proper positioning of the flap. All kidding aside, it is a nuisance and it would close so much nicer if the glass was just a little smaller.
About tempered glass: all the local experts say don't do it. As a matter of fact two glass supply houses have turned down the job saying the glass will shatter. There is etching on the glass that says "toughened". That means tempered to everyone around here. But some old timers i know say it could be shaved off by grinding. But nobody wants to try it. There is one more place that says they can cut it with their water jet. But they said it might break, no guarantees. So I wonder. What do ya think?
 
I like Randy's suggestion :encouragement:
 
Now that I know it's on your Missus' side, the answer is even easier: just be that guy that always opens and closes the door(s) for your wife.

My wife, successful independent woman that she is, took a fair amount of training before she'd wait and allow me to do ALL the doors for her. Now it's an automatic reflex-action, unless there are individual circumstances preventing it (like her side being so close against another car in our garage that I have to move it out before she can get in...).

I think the best part is catching the stranger's admiring (from the females) or condescending (from the males) glances when they see us in the act, lol!

In the end, I too believe that the corner could be ground down (water-bath belt sander, specifically for that purpose) but unless you already have another BJ-7/8 glass window on your shelf, I wouldn't risk it.
 
Time for a trade-in - Either a Healey w/o roll-up windows or new wife. Take your pick:

15825830_565096740363958_2976283820561438670_n.jpg
 
Marv, there is a rubber stop at the top of the front window channel. Non adjustable. For now I think I'll take Randy's approach and "be that guy". Rick's idea is too expensive either way. :smile: I might buy a new window glass, ya never know it might fit better. thanks all.
 
Tempered glass is heated and blasted with cold air causing the outer surface to contract. If you interfere with this case hardening, it will shatter as it is under pressure from the inside. Even a scratch on the glass surface can cause it to shatter, usually at some time in the future. The wind screen (front glass) is laminated and thus will not shatter into pieces. This is why it is necessary to watch the length of the screws in the door or they will scratch the glass making it dangerous, shattering in a billion pieces.
 
TH, I understand what you are saying but surprisingly this piece of glass has many marks and scratches in it. Somewhere in it life someone had way too long of screws in the panels and fittings. The edges are also chipped. Because it has with stood all that I was thinking it might withstand some grinding. but I don't think i'll attempt it now since the consensus from all fronts says it won't work.
 
tahoe healey said:
... This is why it is necessary to watch the length of the screws in the door or they will scratch the glass making it dangerous, shattering in a billion pieces.
Click to expand...

Esp. the door pull screws (IIRC, those are the only screws in the doors of my BJ8; the panels are held in with pinch snaps). It's tempting to use a regular sheet metal screw when you lose one, but that's all but guaranteed to scratch the glass. Moss had the correct ones last I checked.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
Esp. the door pull screws (IIRC, those are the only screws in the doors of my BJ8; the panels are held in with pinch snaps). It's tempting to use a regular sheet metal screw when you lose one, but that's all but guaranteed to scratch the glass. Moss had the correct ones last I checked.
Click to expand...

Bob,

In a BJ7, you really need to be careful with all the screws fixing the panels, not just the door pull ones. Even ones near the bottom of the door can cause interference or window scratching. Learned by hard experience.
 
I believe the big offenders are the half dozen screws that hold the felt weather proofing (the inside of the glass). You are creating a potential for the glass to shatter. One of our club members had his window self destruct as it sat in the sun. Small scratches are probably okay but the long, deep ones are not safe. I would guess grinding would have a serious potential and that is why the glass people will not attempt it. They would be liable in an accident. You may need to adjust the top to fit the glass rather than the glass to fit the top.
 
This isn't too the point, but I once decided to attach a vent window latch on a Volvo (the glue kits had failed) by boring a hole through the glass with a carbide cutter. Part way through, the vent window exploded. What a mess. I second what tahoe healey said about not cutting into the window. As for having otherwise cooperative partners, is there anyone out there who will enlist his wife in the brake-bleeding process without exhausting all of the alternatives?
 
I waited for my son to come home this Christmas to bleed the brakes. My wife is very willing to help, but I keep her in reserve when all other options are not available.
 
RDKeysor said:
This isn't too the point, but I once decided to attach a vent window latch on a Volvo (the glue kits had failed) by boring a hole through the glass with a carbide cutter. Part way through, the vent window exploded. What a mess. I second what tahoe healey said about not cutting into the window. As for having otherwise cooperative partners, is there anyone out there who will enlist his wife in the brake-bleeding process without exhausting all of the alternatives?
Click to expand...

The show 'Fantomworks' on Velocity Channel did a show on--IIRC--a TR6 where they tried to drill a hole into a windshield. Good thing the guys had eye protection.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
The show 'Fantomworks' on Velocity Channel did a show on--IIRC--a TR6 where they tried to drill a hole into a windshield. Good thing the guys had eye protection.
Click to expand...
on a similar note, had a dinning table with a tempered glass top and when I came home the glass was all over the floor. It exploded for no apparent reason. I researched this happening on google and it us rare, but it happens. A glass shop that made me a new one confirmed this event and said it could be a defect in the glass when it was manufactured.
 
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