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BJ7 Rear Axle Maintenance

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Riquet1963

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I started to do the maintenance in my rear axle and I have a question about the torque recommended for the two nuts with red circle

If you have more advice for this operation don't hesitate to provide me

Many thanks

Eric G
 
Nut 3 the right hand side is a right hand thread and the left hand side is a left hand thread I tighten mine with a socket and a drive bar - really tight
The correct tool is a socket with a built in mandrel to insert into the casing, it has two oposing arms for the operation of loosening or tightening, the mandrel keeps the socket connected to that this nut so that the corners of the nut are not cheesed. As far as I know there is not torque recomended, but you must bend the washer over the nut to help prevent is from loosening.
Again there is no recomended torque for nut 49, I use a wheel brace and tighten it up really tight

:cheers:

Bob
 
I bought a 'special' socket for tightening the big axle nut--unfortunately, it doesn't have a mandrel--years ago; with two Healeys I figured it was worth the money (about $40 IIRC) Since it's an eight-sided nut none of the domestic solutions will work, although you might be able to jam a 12-pt hub socket on it. I use a half-inch battery impact wrench, supposedly capable of over 200lb-ft, holding the nut on best I can, although I recall reading somewhere that 150lb-ft is spec. Next time I do this job I'll use a 150lb-ft limiting adapter (If I can keep everything on the nut). I bought this kit after I snapped a lug stud off a wheel on my farm disk with the impact wrench:

www.harborfreight.com

1/2 In. Torque Limiting Extension Bar Set, 10 Piece

Amazing deals on this 1/2In Drive Torque Extension Bar Set 10Pc at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

For the wheel hub nuts, I figure they have equivalent purpose and strength to a disk-wheeled car's lug nuts, so about 80lb-ft should do it. IIRC, they're 7/16" fine and should be grade 8 equivalent, so 80 would actually be above max but typical for lug specs.
 
I bought the correct socket it is about 150mm long from AH Spares it has a 3/4 inch drive and I have a fairly heavy bar to operate it, and I have fabricated a timber Mandrel to jamb into the body of it. It worked but I have yet to fab up a Mandrel out of steel, I have the bar but just lack the will at the moment.

Cheers

Bob
 
There are two versions of the factory tool for the big axle nut. 18G152 is for the early 100s (spiral gears) and the Sprite. 18G258 is for the later 100s and the 6 cylinders (hypoid gears). A 12 point 2-3/16" socket works for the big axle nut (hypoid). The nuts are usually stamped MOWOG RH or LH, on one side. I machined the champfer off the leading edge of the socket since the nut is thin. Did the same for the socket used for the other nuts (#49).
 
The socket that I acquired was more like a box spanner with the one end blocked off and with a 3/4 square hole in it for the big bar so there was no chamber to remove, in my case.

Bob
 
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