BJ7 door indentification

[bob hughes]

Hi guys

You would not believe it but I am endevouring to re-install the hood with more than a little helf from Roger.

So far I have made a new stop bracket for the left hand wind up window, refurbed the wind up mechanism, made a repair to the windup handles - both 'plastic' buttons were split, added two escuchions for the door handles and two springs for the window handles along with the inner felt and outer rubber seals and associated clips to the list of ever growing parts required.

I have just noticed that the doors are of differing construction.

Left hand

Right hand

The pattern of the inside of the doors is different - the edge behind the inner door card is recessed on the RHS whilst the LHS is flat. Any ideas which door comes from where?

Not that I am going to change them, but this car is a right mongrel - but it is my mongrel !




Bob

 

[richch]

The left door is BJ8 while the right door is BJ7. The indentation on the right dor receives the recessed aluminum inner door pocket panel, a feature only on the BJ7.

 

[bob hughes]

Thanks Rich, could not tell the difference until I opened them up.

Bob

 

[Jerry]

I had the same situation. Left from BJ8 and Right from Bj7. The panels do end up fitting the same. You can't tell once you get everything in. Check the quarter panel chrome pieces too. They could be different, and that would show.

Jerry
BJ8
BN4
TR3A x 2

 

[chicken]

Bob

Could you tell me what length the window winder stop should be, I've got to make 2 up for my BJ7, what size flat did you use ?

Also any pics of how the window seals go in would be good, I'm trying to build my doors back up now as well, windows in seals etc.

Rob

 

[bob hughes]

Hi Rob

I took the door cards off one at a time, so was guessing on the LHS. I used a piece of 1" X 1/8" bright mild steel which I picked up from a local machine shop for £3.00, thinking I need two, not bad for a 2 Foot length I thought, considering shop ones are £10+ each.
I made the long leg about 7 1/2" The return leg was around 1" to start and I trimed it down to suit when I found that the window rising bar fouled it when lowering the window. I had to take the winding mechanism out to rebend the rising bar as it was all shapes. The fixing holes were drill central on the new bracket and I took the positions off the car by putting the bar in position and marking through. I allowed for 1/4" UNF bolts. - The way I fitted them, you have to watch out for the bolt length so that the glass will not be fouled, the other door had the bolts the other way round - less of a problem.

On opening the RHS there was one already there at around 3/4" by 3/16" I guess some one had made it as they had notched out a section on the short leg so that the rising bar would not be obstructed when the window was at the bottom position, this is not illustrated in any catalogues hence it has possibly been made?.


Bob

 

[chicken]

Bob

Thanks for that, I'll get them made at the weekend, any chance you could snap a photo of the window door seals in place so I can figure out how mine go.

Rob

 

[bob hughes]

Will do, I have just popped over to Rawles and bought some new brushes and rubbers along with the clips, I am awaiting the right hand rubber one as they were out of stock. The rubbers fit onto the chrome finishing strips with a Zed shaped clip, the rubber is bonded to a metal strip and there are marks along it where the clips should fit. The chrome strip is then cliped over the front corner of the door and is then pushed down such that all the clips engage with the top edge of the door and the rear of the chrome strip engages around the back edge of the door before pushing right home, I will PM you photos in the very near future.

I am currently puzzling (only a little bit) over the inner brush seal, the chap in Rawles tells me that the brush is below the top of the door- in essence upside down, and indeed the correct clips would confirm this. As my car has been refurbished by idiots in the past, I have one door with the old seal in the upside down ( correct) position and the other with the brush up to the top of the door using the Zed clips for the rubber seal, and I must say that this does look nicer when the newly recovered door roll is placed along side it.



Bob