• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

BJ7 Boot Rust-Through

Share this page

OP
5

50yrs same Healy

Freshman Member
Country flag
Offline
In the BJ7 trunk, by the battery support wooden bracket, the inner panel has rusted through. The new panel appears to bolt in? Does it weld too?

Tiny town here - where pickup trucks rule - so I need to tell the shop guy how this goes together. No holes for wood battery support in new part - does this need to be fitted before the inner panel is installed? Has anyone replaced this part that can give me info?
 
Sort by date Sort by votes
Are you referring to the rear quarter panel, item 66? It is welded in place, the rear fender bolts to it. The wooden battery spacer mounts to it via nuts that are welded on to the outer side of the panel. Depending on the amount/location of the rusted out section, can you cut/weld in a patch panel from the new panel? Fender/shroud alignment wouldn't be disturbed (as much?).
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Bob - That's it. I ordered the entire new panel to replace it. Rusted through at end of battery spacer (battery shutoff side) leaving a fist sized hole on limited look. I didn't inspect the entire panel as I figured replacement would be the fix. I found the damage when looking to redo the trunk liner. IF I check and the damage is limited to the area by the battery wood bar - would I be better off with a fix than total replacement? I'm hours away from any AH qualified shops, but the kid at my local shop that they have do the welding seems sharp - just zero AH/sports car experience.
Am I correct in the orig. panel must unbolt from outer fender; be removed; welded back and re-bolted to outer fender? In what order? Also, Bob, if damage is only the one spot - if it was you - would you replace or repair? I'm going to have to decide then inform my local guy. Jacqueline
 

Attachments

  • HEALEY.jpg
    HEALEY.jpg
    27 KB · Views: 91
Upvote 0 Downvote
50yrs same Healy said:
Bob - That's it. I ordered the entire new panel to replace it. Rusted through at end of battery spacer (battery shutoff side) leaving a fist sized hole on limited look. I didn't inspect the entire panel as I figured replacement would be the fix. I found the damage when looking to redo the trunk liner. IF I check and the damage is limited to the area by the battery wood bar - would I be better off with a fix than total replacement? I'm hours away from any AH qualified shops, but the kid at my local shop that they have do the welding seems sharp - just zero AH/sports car experience.
Am I correct in the orig. panel must unbolt from outer fender; be removed; welded back and re-bolted to outer fender? In what order? Also, Bob, if damage is only the one spot - if it was you - would you replace or repair? I'm going to have to decide then inform my local guy. Jacqueline
Click to expand...
I would try to repair - cut out the rusted bit and make a patch that fits in the hole. May be able to weld it in place from inside the trunk. Might not need to cut up the new panel. Just get a piece of the same gauge sheet metal.

Taking off, and putting back on, the fender is not a trivial bit of work. There's a series of screws underneath the aluminum shut panel on the B pillar. You take the door lock striker assembly off, remove the shut panel and the vinyl trim. Remove the screws. There are two bolts/nuts holding the lower flange of the front quarter panel to the outer sills. Then there are a series of fasteners along the outside edge of the fender than holds the fender to the inner panel. May have to remove some of the rear seat/interior to expose the fasteners in the passenger compartment. Might remove the bumper so the fender doesn't get scratched. I'm sure I've left out several details.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Well, ok then, Bob and holy crap ...I'll go check the extent of the rust damage and hope for only what I've found. The local shop, while they've been great for my one ton, would not be up to the level you've described. I've always been nearer to Denver when presented with larger issues - but it's a different season for my life, at this point. Now 400 miles away in Colorado's rural life style.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
btw, posted by mistake before I thanked you for your advice. Thank you. My attempt to bring "sweetie" a bit of freshening may have been a decade or so too late. I used to be taller...faster...stronger...and more bendy when doing these tasks. Turn you head for 30 or 40 years and darn! Again - thanks. Jacqueline
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
I agree with Bob H. Years ago, I replaced the 'doglegs' on my BJ8; over time I came to realize I'd been better off just cutting off and replacing the rusted-through corner sections (not least because it would have preserved the wire 'edge' on the rear wheel wells). A surefire way to tell if there's been work done on the wheel well openings is to run your fingers along the edge of the opening; most repair panels don't have the wrapped-wire edge.

Ask the would-be welder what technique he'll use. Sheet metal body repairs HAVE to be done with 'stitch' welds; running a bead is guaranteed to warp the metal. A butt/stitch weld is a tack weld every inch or so, then follow-up to fill in the gaps (a shot with compressed air helps cool the welds). Then, smooth with a grinder and a little filler (not really necessary) and some paint and you're good to go. An alternative would be an overlap weld, but they look like a bad skin graft.

Edit: Make sure surrounding sheet metal is in good nick.
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0 Downvote
Bob S. Thank you. Being from the era where women were given less mechanical knowledge - and refused entry to H.S. shop - I know how to pay for work better than doing the work. I am saved by having a Mom who was a certified welder and father that figured I need to know "stuff". So, I can mostly discern difference between poo and shoe shine products when at a garage. But the more information I have, the better. I've owned the BJ7 for over 50 years and am either the 2nd or 3rd owner. It is original...except I varied in paint color. The inner panel has never been worked on and if, mostly sound - both you guys recommend less is better.
Due to the deterioration of the wood battery brace end at THE same spot as the rust out, I'm wondering if the issue is related to battery acid/corrosion rather than usual rusting as something "ate" the wood, as well. Since the input from Bob H. I've not gotten out to poke the adjacent panel areas with my awl to see what I've got to deal with.
Winter's coming to Colorado and needed to service my farm equip for storage and remove stock tank floats to protect hydrants and buried pipes. There's always something. So, today, I'm taking the poke-a-matic 2000 out and see what I find. I've printed your thoughts on the welding for the shop. As this started with replacing the boot liner, I think I'll remove the gas tank as it will come out for liner replacement anyway. Don't see any floor rust in visible areas ...but as long as it's off for repair now's the time... Jacqueline
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Hi Jacqueline,

From your description I think-I would have to see it to be sure--the corrosion was from the battery venting. When overcharged, a lead-acid battery can vent hydrogen gas, hence the admonishment to be careful jumping and attach the ground somewhere away from the battery. But, I've had lots of issues with batteries leaking and, when they do, they leak concentrated sulfuric acid (the electrolyte). Usually, they leak around the common ('ground') terminal which, in a Healey that hasn't been converted is the positive terminal. I've had leaky batteries do similar damage to other cars and, overall, the quality of auto batteries has gone down considerably in the last decade or so (probably why you don't find many batteries with 7-year warranties anymore). If your current battery is more than a few years old you might consider replacing it; sealed lead-acid ('SLA') batteries are less prone to leak, but I like to be able to check the electrolyte occasionally. Absorbed glass mat ('AGM') batteries are more robust, but cost more too.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
I had a yellow top Optima that died, literally, before I got the cable tightened - after 2nd replacement, I went to an Interstate. On my other vehicles, O'Reilly's has some long warranty ones. No battery for a couple of years waiting for SU long and short pipe replacements to become available. Which brings me to my current projects. Last look below battery tray - there are signs of dried battery acid. Makes me hopeful for limited damage to inner panel. So I'll get to poking the area. On the subject, my battery tray (which I believe is original) is different from the replacements seen @ Moss. Mine is metal with slotted openings. Any views on if not original to car? Also, posted for missing squab frame replacement or specs to build - anyone? I'd planned/dreamed of taking the car - telescoping fishing rod - dog - tent and Rand McNally Atlas and heading off to odd named locations with water. That's not likely anymore, but I'm heck bent on completing, at least, the car projects and buying some fish sticks for dinner.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
The Bakelite tray sold by Moss is correct. I can't speak to it being identical to the factory part, but it's at least a very good replica. If you're interested in how the cars came out of the factory, there's a group that annually publishes an Originality Guideline for big Healeys. Their website: Concours Registry.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Perfect - thank you. The tray with the car is metal and has slotted openings. Fits correctly and was with the car when purchased in 1973. Being slotted, any boil over from a battery would gather below on boot floor - so I wondered if there was a functionality to the slots. Clearly not. I'll drop into the site mentioned - maybe they have wisdom regarding how to fabricate a squab frame. Came across a reference in the 1956 - 68 Autobook, by Kenneth Ball, to replacing the rear body panel - says a few winged bolts 33 rivets and off it comes...easy peesy. Oh really?? This kind of crap is how I get in trouble - fails to mention a bunch of mechanics and giant shop, I'm sure.
 
Upvote -1 Downvote
The slotted tray has never made sense to me, but came with and in the car for over 50 years Stupid looking but fits, so I never questioned it. The correct part not much $$$, so I'll get it ordered prior to boot liner replacement. On another project, I've got carpet ordered but have questions on best product suitable for the floor liner. There isn't anything under the current carpet, which at least gives me a good look at the metal.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Back
Top