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Best year of parts to swap

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M

MBGFC

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I have a 1969 MGB with a 18GH w/weber, that runs very strong but has a lot of valve noise, that I am fixing up. I also have a 1976 with 18V802AE w/ZS carb and OD, and a 1980 18AN?? with SU carbs and OD, parts cars. Here is the can of worms question, what are the best parts from these 3 cars to combine to make the stongest engine combination possible, that will bolt to (I am assuming the best choice would be) to the 1980 OD trans. I am also planning on swapping the vacum assit master brake cylnder from the 1980 to the 1969. Any other ideas of what to swap?
 
Before you attempt that powered brake booster swap, you need to follow my experience doing it on one of my cars.....https://www.theautoist.com
...& go to the 1970 MGB GT build in my garage section....
 
Thanks for the great info. I thought the newer master cylinder would give me better braking not just easier. Since it won't, I will not make the swap and keep the extra engine bay room for my future 60 degree V6 swap.

Thanks Chris
 
v6 seams pretty popular now. i would go with the smoothest running engine best oil pressure and compression. then i would use the su's after i rebuilt them then the smoothest shifting od tranny. hows that?
 
Sounds like good advise. The problem is the best engine is the 76, but it seems way down on power compared to the 69.

Maybe I can simplify my question. What will be gained or loss by installing the cylinder head and distributor off the 80 on to my 69 18GH motor. I know that 76 and newer model motors have about 30 horsepower less, according to some stuff I have read.
 
the reason that the later models are have a lack in power are because of th zenith exhaust manifold. im making a custom setup on mine but id just find the engine with the best oil presure ad use that one and you will have to talk to someone else about the heads and the cams. so id use the 76 shortblock then im not sure on which head
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by MBGFC:
Thanks for the great info. I thought the newer master cylinder would give me better braking not just easier. Since it won't, I will not make the swap and keep the extra engine bay room for my future 60 degree V6 swap.

Thanks Chris<hr></blockquote>

sell the motors and do the v6 swap now
driving.gif
 
it would take little more than swapping the MG engines and if you have 3 running engines and an OD tranny you should be able to sell them aor almost enough to do the swap
 
If you already have a strong running (noisy) '69, why not adjust the valves and leave it alone? The '69 has the best cam of the three, the weber is probably the best carb of the three, the compression is probably highest of the three, why go around looking for unnecessary work to do?? Bob
 
Thanks Bob
The 69 is by far the more powerful engine. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't sitting on a magic combination of parts.

P.S. I already adjusted the vlaves, guess I will learn to live with the noise.
 
I didn't mean to put down your idea of mixing and matching. It's possible the late model heads will have the hard valve seats that would be an advantage IF you drove a lot of hard miles, otherwise unnecessary. On the valves, that noise is one of the reasons that early LBC's were said to sound like sewing machines because they are anything but silent. Double check the manual for the clearances. I once adjusted the valves in a solid lifter Corvette unknowingly with two blades of the feeler gauge stuck together- now that WAS loud. Bob
 
I shall check the valves again soon. I just got the 69 running again, it was sitting awhile. I am getting all the little bugs worked out associated with sitting awhile. Then when the snow starts flying this winter I will go for the V6 swap.
 
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