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Best way to adjust doors

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bighealeysource

bighealeysource

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Well, forgot to practice my "if it aint broke don't fix it rule" and decided to just do a minor adjustment to my driver's door. UGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH, what a mistake. Now it's all messed up. Installed new aluminum threshold plates so just tweaking the door fit. Any suggestions other than taking it to Fourintune !
Thanks
Mike
 
As far as I'm concerned you are pretty much on the button. I've said before the people who fit the AH upholstery on seats (backs in particular) and who fit the doors were probably a pretty grumpy bunch. I've been neglecting readjusting my hinges and latches for about a year now after 5K miles since I did it the last time. Trial and error. If you can afford to pay someone to do it properly it might be a good idea. There just seems to be no really good way to tighten the hinges enough so you can prevent the door from moving for a trial fit and then when you have to loosen them to make a tiny adjustment it slips and you are essentially at zero again.
 
This may help

Use a cushioned floor jack to hold the door weight while you fiddle with its position.
 
Thanks Jon and Keoke ! Actually did put a floor jack under it this morning which helped while trying to get it right. Got it back just about right but still out a bit at the bottom so for now will let it be and come back when I am in a more patient mood to get it better !
 
bighealeysource said:
Thanks Jon and Keoke ! Actually did put a floor jack under it this morning which helped while trying to get it right. Got it back just about right but still out a bit at the bottom so for now will let it be and come back when I am in a more patient mood to get it better !
Click to expand...
Easier to adjust the doors if you remove the original large phillips screws and use allen wrench type of screws.
 
Hey Patrick,
Know the screws are 1 inch long, do you know what the correct size would be for one with an allen head on it ? I can take one into my local hardware store but figured you might know !
Thanks
Mike
 
bighealeysource said:
Hey Patrick,
Know the screws are 1 inch long, do you know what the correct size would be for one with an allen head on it ? I can take one into my local hardware store but figured you might know !
Thanks
Mike
Click to expand...

5/16th UNF fine thread .
What you should have done was either draw around the hinge with a sharp pencil before you removed the door or once you have the door in place . If your hinges have the u shaped cut out in the door pillar , drill and tap a hole through the door pillar into the loose 4 bolt backplate make the hole in the sheet metal part of the backplate bigger . once the door is correct tighten the bolt into the backplate and use a fender washer . then you can take the door off 100s of times and it always goes back in the same spot as the 4 bolt backplate is secured separately . You can only do this if you have the U shaped cut out hinges . :eagerness::eagerness:

Now I just had a brainwave for those with the flat square hinges . Drill a 5/8 hole through the side of the hinge that goes against the door pillar , now once the door is in place and correct . drill a second smaller hole into the 4 hole backplate and use a 1/4' allen head bolt and washer to secure the backplate....done door removal and reinstall covered all models .

Now of course if you are a concours guy then this is a huge sacriligous modification that cannot possibly be tolerated and is punishable by 200 lashes with wet celery :congratulatory:
 
The pain of it all is slowly returning. I recall that what gave me the best results is tightening the hinge hardware enough so I could close the door without anything moving and then open it and tap on the hinge with a mallet and a drift to move it very small amounts. Awkward at best but I need to do it again one of these days. I too used the floor jack and also tried using tapered shims to put the door gaps where I wanted them, but you can't tighten the hinges with the door closed so that was of limited value.
 
My neighbors learned all kinds of new swear words when I closed the door after first adjusting it and chipped my one year old beautiful paint along the edge of the wing. Only about an inch long and maybe 1/8 in wide but enough to make one drink ! Can fix that but could not believe it !!! Appreciate all the advice. Biggest issue right now is door is out at the bottom and my gap between front wing and door is now off. Did this minor adjustment as getting the car ready for the Hilton Head Concours on November 1 as got the old gal invited - the car, not my wife ! Just know the judges are going to eyeball that gap !
 
I always leave the hinge screws loose enough that you can close the door and gently move the door to its proper place, then slowly open the door to tighten the screws. Once the door is done then go to the latch . Same deal , but you can usually see where the wedge will go equally thru the two guides. Also make sure you have the proper shim under the B post latch or you will cave in the aluminum. I always use the original alum as a guide to see if the holes were rounded out more for placement of the latch ( hand built you know)

Also if you are using new striker plates, they are different from the originals and require more work. USE ORIGINAL shaped screws as the new ones have been known to be oversized in the head and can bind on the latch when closing , go slow with closing the door. Always use a little masking tape to protect surfaces when in doubt. Closing the door if done right should not have to be closed hard, check the door seals first, oversize padded door panels also give headaches, see why restoring a car can be so much fun ???? !!
 
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